I recently put on my 35R on my k24a2 and notice it started smoking right away. I bought the turbo from a guy on this forum that claims it was brand new never used. When I receive it, looked like it wasnt used. So I pulled the turbo back off and notice oil in the exhaust side of the turbo. Does this mean the seals are blown? If so does any one know anyone that rebuilds them? oh and by the way I was using a restrictor.

 

He most likely used brake cleaner and some good ol' elbow grease to make it "look new" again. Looks like you are going to have to do Garrett's CHRA exchange program at the cost of a few hundred dollars. You got hosed guy.

 

YEP.

 

what was the guy's name? hope you didnt pay too much.

 

Do they naturally leak some? My intake side of the gt35r has always leaked since I got it from full race. When I pull the intake off the turbo there is always a bit of residue. I am using a restrictor and -10 drain no kinks. I just recently tried a bigger cone filter than the one I was using. I just hope I don't have the same as the poor guy above

 

no. they do not "naturally leak".

 

you need a restrictor... honda motors have always run high oil pressure, too high for what the turbo needs at the CHRA. without a restrictor you can force oil past the seals, which will eventually destroy the turbo.

The seals on a turbo will seep oil with no pressure. that is if you store a turbo with oil in its chra it will slowly seep past the seals since they use pressure to seal the center section.

Asking if a turbo normally leaks is like asking if your car will run without gas

 

I was told from the tuner that when the seals are new they leak a little till they coke up with carbon a little, so I keep an eye on it and its been so long and not getting answers from the tuner guy. I have a restrictor and the CHRA is strait up and down I think its .065" I didnt measure it I assumed they sent the correct fitting. The fitting on bottom was an adapter to npt then an adapter to -10an I got one that was strait to -10 thinking maybe a bit of a restriction there that didn't help at all. I guess all I can do at this point is take the oil feed restrictor off and verify the size.

 

the center section shouldnt have any coke in it... thats a sign of poor oil or improper shutdown/cooling. you have to run water lines with ball bearing turbos as thats how the bearings are kept at the proper operating temp.

the seals shouldn't leak even when the turbo is brand new and run for the first time... its not like a piston ring that has to seat...

 

I always idle and let it cool down, the water lines are hooked up. I installed it like the full-race instructions said too. My only gripe was they didn't include a restrictor I had to order one. They said if you run an oil prefilter the restrictor is not needed. I feel like I have been a lot of bad info.

 

the pre-filter does nothing for oil pressure, the garrett gt CHRA's only need 35psi of oil pressure MAX IIRC.
most restrictors should be .035.. i think

 

Bought it from OceanStateTuning for $987. I dont kno if this matters but there is little to no shaft play. I was thinking oil may have seeped through the seals because the engine oil was still cold and my oil pressure was really high. Does any body think this could happening? I am running a restrictor too. The return is 10an line back to the oil pan.

 

No... if that was the case then every single turbo would have the same problem you are having. All oil pressure is higher when cold than warm during idle. You need to educate yourself and realize the seals are not ACTUALLY "seals". They are more like washers that use pressure differentials to keep oil out. You have to remember the inside of the turbo center section doesn't actually hold oil pressure. This is the reason the drain line is 5x bigger than the feed line. If you are having problems right out of "the box", you should try for a refund. Let me guess though, it's a performance part and there isn't any returns? Yeah, you got taken for a ride cowboy.

 

What he said. The only reason the center sections have pressure is because of the small passages through which oil travels and the bearings themselves.. they present a flow restriction which.in turn creates oil pressure. Once the oil clears the bearings its in a wide open cavity in the chra.. the oil leaves the Turbo by gravity and no other means.

 

so just to confirm, what size is the feed line and what size restrictor are you using?

 

3an w/ 0.035 restrictor

 

Right now im talking to pure turbos in cali. About rebuilding it. Have you ever heard of them? They charge 450 for a rebuild on ball bearing turbos.

 

In addition, you must make sure that the cartridge isn't tilted in one particular direction too far. It must be completely vertical (UP & DOWN), and no 90* oil return fittings should be used.

 

Yea I had the feed facing up and the return facing down. As for fittings Im using 10an straight fitting off the turbo to a 45* fitting on the oil pan. I wined up buying a rebuild for the turbo today. Im going to be sending it to pure turbos out of Oceanside, CA. They charge $450 for any ball bearing rebuild. Has anyone ever heard of them on here?

 

Or you can call Garrett and get a brand new CHRA for that or less with a warranty from the factory... They might not have been trying to dick you over either. If the turbo is in fact new its under warranty. Call your Garrett distributor.

 

I bought it from OceanStateTuning off this forum. The guy claims its new. He could be BSing me.Either way I sent it out today to get rebuilt. I hoping to have it back in two weeks.

 

good luck to you

 

i've never seen a new chra for 450... they normally go for anywhere from 800-1100 for a 35r chra.

it is possible to rebuild garrett's gt technology but its very time consuming and requires intense precision... i'd be worried about something going wrong due to something the rebuild company did. you know when you get a new chra from garrett that it was built from new parts, shaft, etc and that it was assembled properly and to spec

 

I would be asking OceanStateTuning for a refund or for them to pay for the costs involved for repair.
Sounds like you have done everything correctly for the install.

 

I am not sure what is going on with this kid anymore. He first starts out SOHC, then goes B-series all the while being an advocate for eBay turbos, and finally is trying to make a 1000hp K-series engine. With a 35R none the less....