Hey HT!I am planning to go turbo tomorrow(sunday),and im a little worried,as this is my daily driver and it would literally ruin my life if i blew this motor.,,lol.So i have a simple question,how much can i boost?

here are the specs

im guessing around 70 miles on what's listed

b18a1 motor

polished head
81mm stock bore size
b18b valves,valvetrain,cams
race piston rings
race rod bearings
full 3" exhaust
turbo seal gaskets

the turbo kit includes:
t28 turbo(just a little guy lol,spools super fast)
fuel management unit
cast iron manifold
3" downpipe
slim intercooler and hks bov
tial wastegate
330cc injectors



what whp/hp can i SAFELY(cant stress enough) look forward to achieving with this setup?what psi?

 

What pistons are you running? If they're stock you can safely run 6-7psi. I would still recommend an upgraded fuel pump though. You'll probably see around 175 whp, give or take. Did you bore the bolt holes on the big end of the rods and install ARP rod bolts while the engine was apart? That's the weak point on most LS engines.

 

ive read that people have broken 300whp on stock ls motors...so the pistons are the weak point in this?i plan on replacing the fuel pump with a 255lph,and the head bolts with arp head studs.but 175whp is a little unsatisfying...

ive been reading this,and it seams there are so many mixed opinions..
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/b18a1-boost-2652991/
is this something that im just gonna have to play with or what?how come answers are so different?

 

the answers are so different because there are way to many variables that detemine how much hp an engine makes.

330 injectors might be a bit weak for the hp your expecting.

 

honestly,i just want to break 200hp safely..and keep it a street daily driver..

what do i need on top of what i have to do this?again,safely.

 

you need to have it tuned

 

Don't try to turn it up high and find a reputable tuner, have it tuned on a safe conservative map and make sure you have a wide band O2 sensor, always monitor your a/f ratio and you should be fine!

 

you should also wait till you have money to back it up. incase anything happens.

 

 

The pistons aren't the weak point, but they do set the compression ratio. With stock pistons you are limited on how much boost you can run. The weak point are the rod bolts. Most people who build up LS engines upgrade to ARP bolts, but to fit them you need to bore the bolt holes and re-balance the rods. Afterwards the bottom end can withstand more pressure and higher RPMs.
A stock bottom end can handle (as I said earlier) around 6-7 psi, and shouldn't be revved any higher than the factory red line. A stock LS makes 145 hp at the crank, which translates to a little over 100 hp at the wheels. A turbo running 7 psi usually adds around 50+ hp at the crank. You can bolt on a turbo intake manifold for a few extra horse power, a reputable tuner can squeeze out a few more.
There are people that have made 300 on a stock engine, but they usually don't last too long. If you want a reliable daily driver, you have to trade off some power. You'll probably be plenty satisfied with a turbo, full exhaust, fuel system upgrade, intake manifold, and a good tune. That should net you somewhere around 200 hp, which moves an Integra pretty well.

 

Boost pressure has nothing to do with this what so ever!
for example the amount of PSI at GT42 and a 16g turbo push are compltely different think in amout of hp. there is no set limit and if the computer is non tuned to read postive presure it will not run correctly.
Saying a stock bottom end will handle 7-8 psi you just sound dumb. get into the FI forum and learn
with a good tune a heathy bottom end imo will last 350-400 whp easly for quite some time. stay off the boost until you have the car tuned.

 

is the motor built because if it is u will blow i up bro

 

This makes no sense.

He states his specs, its not "fully" built but has some engine work.

To the OP, it will be very reliable depending on your HP goal, less HP more reliablity, and vice versa.

The weakest point of the b18b1 are the rod bolts. But at 200-250HP they will be perfectly fine. 300HP is pushing it but it'll still handle it for a good while.

 

So I guess people who run a lot of boost install 8:1 compression pistons just for fun then? Obviously different turbos can produce different amounts of boost. He said he wants to know what is safe for a daily driver. You've obviously never assembled an engine yourself, don't know much about boost, and don't know the difference between engine horsepower and wheel horsepower. Perhaps you should pick up a wrench and do some learning yourself. I work on cars for a living. Know your facts before calling other people dumb.

 

Nice....
I am ASE certified in General repairs, Machine surfacing and repair.
there is no point in having a honda with 8:1 compression ratio that is just too low i run 11.2:1 on my PTE boosted EM1 for years its all in the tune.
Please do us a favor and go to the Forced Induction thread and ask about running 8:1 compression no one does lol unless for a specific reason.
and by the way I tear down build and tune part when im not working active full time as a United States Marine.
im not just some kid bragging.
Please just read a bit before you start assuming things and hearsay" is not the truth the days of using lowcompression and FMU's a/f controllers are over tuning a car the correct way is cheaper and easier. where not in the 90's any more.

 

actually what he said was completely correct regarding turbo hondas... 8.x:1 is a horrible compression ratio to use, using "psi" is not a good judge of anything. "psi" is a measure of restriction, therefore not relevant to his questions. he can run 20 psi on that turbo and barely make 200whp, but on your run of the mill 57 trim 20 psi can get you to 400whp.

i don't exactly agree with 400whp on a stock ls bottom end lasting long though.

 

If you just rebuilt it 70 miles agO are you gonna break the engine in first?
Every engine reacts different, so you can have the same set up on two different ls motors and one might handle more.
How healthy is your engine in te first place? Who did the rebuild?
If you want your car to last get a good tune and just dont red line it at every light.
And you will max those injectors out real fast.

 

thanks for some one else having common sense when it comes to any Forced Induction build.

as for the 400 whp it all depends on how conservative of the tune and quality parts oem specs 400 whp bieng high deff

 

careful, your ignorance is showing. perhaps you should take your own advice?

 

It's scary to see how many people work on cars for a living.

 

lol. Slightly insulting, but funny. Perhaps I am stuck a little in the old skool technology, but I know what works. 8:1 was an exaggeration, but lower compression is tried and true for higher boost.
@ CleanSi- so how much boost are you running with that setup? Pump gas? How much wheel horsepower are you making? Are you running OBD1 or 2? I'm curious as to how well that setup works. By the way, thank you for your service! Just try not to use it as something to throw in peoples' faces, sounds a little pompous.

 

I'm referring to your insistence that psi is the determining factor in what an engine should be limited to before it blows

 

You have to boost more with lower compression to make the same power as a higher comp with lower boost

 

I'm not necessarily saying psi is the main concern. You can run lean on low boost and burn up a piston. There are many factors to tuning a turbo engine. I was just trying to give the OP a ballpark range on what you can run reliably on a stock engine. It seems I was being a little to general for a few people though.

 

In no way shape or form was I throwing my service in any ones face I dont know how you would get that idea. im saying on my off time not to say i am a full time Machinist

you cannot tune any obd2 honda computer, I have a jumper to obd1 Hondata s300 e85 PTE 5857. 82 A/R 350 whp @ 12 psi 11.2:1