gonna do this in fall, it's got 210k on it, do i need to get pump and belt from majestic or are there other sources?

also might as well do tensioner, same question

 

I'v used Advance Auto Parts parts on my boosted b16 (Timing Belt, Water Pump, etc) and never had any issues. Dayco timing belt is $26 as opposed to OEM at $54.99.

Personally I have to drive an hour to get to closest Honda Dealership or drive 5 minutes up the road for everything.

OEM is obviously best since it was made for that car, but part stores do just as well in my opinion.

 

what about tensioner and water pump? i've noticed some things that are cheaper at dealer

such as cap and rotor are $20 , where at advance you have to buy each separately and its $30

 

Go OEM, do it right the first time. Sometimes you get lucky, but why risk it? Like working on your car twice as often?

PS, Belt should be fine with w/e, just dont get the bottom of the barrel product price....

Waterpump I'd go OEM on.

 

lost me here..................so oem water pump and tensioner, advance for belt?

anything else i'm missing, besides water pump gasket or does that come with water pump ?

 

i'd go with majestic honda prob, depending on local prices considering shipping

edit, majestic beats my local dealer by a mile

 

guy at work says i'm crazy to do this with 210k on the motor, i said i was hoping to get 300k.............i've taken care of it, change the oil with castrol gtx every 3k.........rust is pretty bad under passenger door but, i'm thinking at 210 it's worth it

did all new brake system 3 yrs ago, mc, calipers, cylinders, hard lines , hoses, everything

did upper control arms and tie rod ends this year

 

accessory belts (i.e. power steering, alternator, ac) advance is fine

go with a oem T belt (or gates belt. gates makes honda oem belts) oem water pump, and for the tensioner, oem, or a mikiani (sp?) advance sells it.

*** while you're at it. don't for get the cam sprocket gasket, and the main seal gasket. oem for those two.

 

I was saying that basically I've never experienced any problems with belts... Never had one that just prematurely wore through in 10,000 miles or something stupid. But w/e just go all OEM ****, I bought a Vatozone fuel pump, never again..... Total garbage

 

is the cam sprocket gasket #20?

is the main seal #4?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+-+TIMING+BELT


would anyone happen to know gates part number for belt ?

edit, found it......t143

 

gates makes a whole timing kit, anyone tried it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GATES-TCKWP1...ht_1134wt_1037

 

I have used the kits from this site for years and never had a problem with anything , even after 60K miles. This kit gives you anything that you should change when you do a timing belt change.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRX-D1...item3362a80e0d

Or if you don't mind spending a bit more and get OE manufacturers, get this kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-95-Honda-...item5646c7b874

NPW makes water pumps for Nissan, Mitsuboshi is an OE supplier for Honda.

BTW, always change the crank and cam oil seal when you do the timing belt. Oil destroys them pretty quickly. Happened to me with a t-belt that was less than a year old.

 

damn, that is almost scarily cheap for all that

was just looking on majestic, is the power steering pump for this car not avail? cuz it shows it but doesn't list it, it's working but on intial startup it makes a strange rattling noise for about 45 secs , then goes away

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...gry5=P.S.+PUMP

 

I added another place that has the same kit but the mfg's are OE suppliers, but it's not that much more.

 

It shows that the pump is still available (#1)

http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/f...AT/P.S.%20PUMP

 

nice

at that price i'll let it fail and use manual,lol

 

i'm going to use this diy but i have 2 questions

http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=500

i can't seem to find the thread about how to replace the crank seal, i have read it's a pia?

and what does he mean bout the belt moving 3 teeth "over" when he tightens the tensioner?

does he mean rotate the crank pulley counter clockwise with belt on so it moves three teeth from the point it started and then tighten tensioner bolt?

and what is engine block coolant drain plug tq? can't find it here or in haynes

 

It's not that bad to replace the crank seal. I usually use a very small screwdriver or an awl to poke a hole and then work it out of the hole. There are a lot of other things that are way bigger PITA.

Once you have the belt on and you are ready to set the tension you do it like you said. Turn the crank counter clock wise (I usually go a little less than 1/4 turn). If you can do it, before you stop turning, tighten the tensioner bolt. If you can't do both at the same time, turn the crank about 1/4 turn, then slowly tighten the tensioner bolt.
You have to rotate the crank to take up any slack in the t-belt and get the correct tension.

It's also a good idea to redo the tension after about 10K miles. There is a hole in the t-belt cover through which you can access the tensioner bolt. Do it the same way: Loosen tensioner bolt, rotate crank CCW, tighten tensioner bolt, done.

 

what exactly is the deal with the block drain plug? i've read drain it, i've read don't mess with it, it's not meant to come out it's a freeze plug blah blah blah

and i still can't find the tq setting anywhere....................anyone?

 

The only reason to take it out is if you need all the coolant water around the cylinders gone. If you do take it out, do what I did. Best is if you get a new washer for it, if you don't, take the old one (It's aluminum if I remember right) and make the surface smooth on both sides with a sharpening stone. if you get both sides to a uniform surface the washer is as good as new.
The torque setting is 33 ft lbs (45 Nm)

 

well, it's in that guide, it's not necessary for the water pump tho is it?

 

No, not at all.
You would do it if the coolant is contaminated with something and you would need to get every last bit of water out of the system. Or if you remove the head and want to clean between the block and cylinder walls.
Just to change the water pump there is no reason for you to remove it, unless you just wanna do it...

 

k, cool...amazing to me that out of all the people on this board only 2 or 3 step up

ty for the help

 

Good information...gonna get this done soon.

 

does the motor need to be supported underneath when taking off engine mount?