So i have a F20B3 Engine in my CD9 and i can not find any info on it :S
It makes standard 136HP it is OHC non Vtec.

Any people know what could do to make it more potent?
What is my Block related to....what can i swap to make it go,
or do i own a lost cause..



EDIT:

Ok so I am going boosted as soon as I find a proper manifold for my motor..
An F22B2 Turbo manifold will work.

 

Been standing still for 5 years....my project

 

Do a search for "Accord 1994 CD7 CD9 Coupe USDM Service Manual" and you will see that it is one of the three basic engines used in the 94-97 CD chassis. F22B1, F22B2 and F20B3 are all listed in that manual. I would imagine that most of the components, aside from the crank and rods, would be compatible between the F22B2 and the F20B3.

F20B3 = 85mm bore x 88mm stroke..... Not 100% but it could very well be the same crank and rods as the DOHC F20B.

All of the engine specs are in the manual.....

 

Thanks for the reply,

I know my engine is in the CD chassis but what i am trying to find out is how i can i get the best performance out of it.

I hear/read a lot about the F20B which has 200HP but i have not been able to find out what if possible i need to change to make it like the F20B


Did find a handy website that has all the part numbers (using google translator)
I have been looking there for a while now but i have not been able to find the F20B.

PS, i did a lot of searches
PPS Love your website, it seems to be hosted in France...you would not happen to live there would you?
(I just moved there)

 

Thanks I didn't realize that it was being hosted in France..... it's a free Google blog site so I signed up.....lol

I live in a small town in the province of New Brunswick on the east coast of Canada.





The F20B is a DOHC VTEC engine. Only similarities are the bore and stroke. In order to get an extra 60hp out of your SOHC non VTEC you would be looking at having to do some internal upgrades. It's basically the same as trying to get to 200hp with one of the F22B2s. Except the difference of 0.2l...

Increase compression and maybe a larger bore (pistons) and upgrade to a larger cam and a beefed up valve train would be a start. A square F20B3 would be nice 88mm pistons 88mm stroke..... The stock sleeves wouldn't handle an extra 3mm bore for very long though.

Any aftermarket parts for the F22B2 head would be what you are looking for.

 

Thanks for that,

I read that the F22B2 has 130 Horsepower so i was hoping a Cylinder head transplant and some goodies would make it a proper F20B.

Then again i am totaly new to this but i am not afraid to have a go if i know what i need to do, i have been looking on the web for the last two weeks.

This seems to be the place with the guys in the know and i love to learn ,
there are as good as non of these here which does not help for finding things in my region.

I see that you are doing a F22 is that the same Cylinder block as mine?

 

Here are all parts in my engine listed..Google translator ftw
http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/honda/s...4_17SV201_KG/1

 

If you went with an F20B DOHC head it would be a lot like us doing the G22/G23 hybrid build here. Where we take an F22 or F23 block and drop an H22A/F20B head on it. The F20B DOHC head is a bit harder to find in these parts.

To be honest with you if you are looking to do a head swap and can find an F22A1-6 head fairly cheap. It flows just as well as an F20B DOHC head and there is a pretty good aftermarket for it now.

My F22 block has a POA stamping. Yours has a different part number. However, they both have the same specs according to the helms manual. Difference being the crank stroke, rod length and piston dish & compression height. Your F20B3 has a 9:1 comp ratio vs the F22B2s 8.8:1.

 

if you wanted to do a headswap i've heard the f22b2 heads flow better than the f22b1 VTEC heads. That being said, if you could find a B2 head and have it shaved a little bit for more compression and get a 3 way valve job and port and polish on the head and possibly the intake you could probably squeeze some decent power gains. nothing crazy but enough to tell a difference. throw a cam into the mix and possibly a bigger throttle body and it'd be a good start to a good N/A setup.

I know on my circle track racecar that i have, although it is a mustang, the 2.3L we have in it with our shaved head is a night and day difference from our stock head. granted it's been shaved over 150 thousanths which might not be all that safe for street/daily driving you could safely get some machine work done to it to boost the compression. Everyone who we've talked to always says the powers all in the head, overbore and stroke will also increase it well but if you get a good built head you will notice a difference. just my two cents from my experiences

 

The F22B2 and F20B3 use the same head! (12100-P0B-A00)

 

ahhhhh then screw buyin a b2 head and just get the b3 head machined and cammed

 

Thanks Guys i appreciate your willingness to help a lot,

I need it as i am a total at this.

What i fail to see is why would i get a B2 and now you say B3 is better.
Would it not have been better to then go with the B3 in the first place?

I like to put a Turbo on it or a charger with possibly Nos as an option for the 60km+ pulls

 

Well you have to realize that the F20B3 isn't common over here in North America. So bakerskater11 thought that the B2 would be a better head. When they are really the same head.

Then he came back and said that the B3 head would work with some milling and a cam.





You have so many options, it's kind of hard to tell you what to do when you're still adding information about your plans. You need to set a goal for the engine & chassis as well as a budget.... tuning is a factor to add in for budget as well. It is the most important part of the build.

Now if you want to go boost, don't bother swapping the head. There is no real need to. Now you would want to look into upgrading the pistons to handle the amount of boost you want to push. The reason for getting new pistons is that the stock cast piston ring lands are a weak point in the bottom end.

You could also look into stroking the engine with an F22A/B crank and rods. You will want to use an upgraded aftermarket cam meant for boost as well. Any of the turbo cams available for the F22B2 will work. The F23A1 intake manifold and throttle body mod will also be a plus.

 

Ok i am aiming at 200/220HP with turbo and +- 250HP with Nos added if possible.

I am in the process of buying another complete CD9 F20B3 as Daily driver, Budget needs to be reasonable so as cheap as possible within reason will do anything to get there. (long term project)

 

If that is what you are looking to get out of a boosted engine. You can achieve that with a small turbo kit (running 8-10 psi) a 2bar MAP sensor, a set of 92-95 Prelude 345cc injectors (or DSM 450cc injectors) and a tune. The 2 bar isn't exactly necessary as the stock MAP will read up to 10 pis of boost. However, it is always better to have a little more room to help tune.

 

Well i would love to get more out of it but i like to keep the costs down,
if it is possible to reach 240/250 HP with turbo only i can skip the Nos.

It does however need to be able to do some drives and not be like a track car.
Judging by your reply 200Hp is a breeze.(kindah)

So if i go with a small turbo (quicker spooling less lag if i am not mistaking) i can keep the stock internals?

I am not so worried about fuel consumption so i would go for DSM 450 injectors, how much can this setup give me max without major modifications?

Any small turbo kits you can advice? and from where?
I am asking this as i do not like to reinvent the wheel or make mistakes that made have been made by others in the past.

 

I'm not a boost guy, I know as much as I do about it just from reading other Accord owners boosted build threads. IIRC There are a few of them around in the 200-250whp range on stock internals. DSM 450cc injectors would be good up to 200-250whp. Could also go with a set of Mazda RX7/RX8 550cc injectors as well. You can pick up a set of 4 with clips for $250-$300.

As far as fuel economy/cruising. From what I understand If you want to be able to cruise without boost. You would need a turbo that would start to spool in the low-mid RPM range. Or at least above the RPM range that your car currently cruises @ highway speeds. The larger fuel injectors don't always mean more fuel consumption. That is where a good tuner will come into factor.

I have tuned a couple boosted B18s running 550cc injectors. They didn't hit boost during cruise with the turbos they were running. Therefore I was able to get them really good MPG during low load cruise situations. As long as they stayed off the throttle the car was economical. However, as soon as they stepped on it the boost was right there as well. All depends on your turbo. Someone else will have to chime in to help you with that.

Good luck with your build

 

Thanks mate,

I appreciate your help
The only Coupe i seen for sale in a long time has been sold so i miss out on that,
i am thinking of a plan B
Getting another daily drivers car and do some more work on it and partially strip to reduce weight.

At the moment i am running in all directions and not sure where to go yet, i guess time will tell me.

In a perfect scenario i get another Similar coupe for daily driving and do one of them as non daily.

That will give me all the time in the world to do w/e mods i like.

 

Yeah that's what I did. Except I didn't buy another Accord. I bought a money pit Mazda/Ford POS....looking back I probably should have bought another. I miss driving it very much!

Next spring I'm going to be looking at getting into a newer EX-L.

 

Well going to skip buying the whole other Accord thing, I still have my Volvo. it is an S60 2,4Turbo AWD Full options.
My wife was using it but she will have to get something else

 

I Put an H22a, and have never regretted it....especially since getting the cylinder head back from Portflow, and the new Ferrea Valvetrain.

 

Yeah i contemplated a H22 but they are ridiculously rare here, so i woul dhave to import one from the US or Japan or something like that.

I never thought my engine had any potential, but i read this thread : https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/turbo-f22-build-h22-rods-4g63-pistons-low-compression-2546957/

And now i want to find out if i can do the same...if i can i will.

 

Any block has the "potential" when you add boost. Lots of boosted F22 builds out there these days.

You should be able to do the same. The F20B3 has the same 50mm mains.... Use an F22 crank, H22 rods with the same Evo pistons......

 

Thanks again mate,

I figured that but i am/was afraid i may miss something.

 

Ok so I have been searching for a Turbo Manifold for my cylinder head but I can not find any manifold.(searched a long time)

If anybody has and idea what mark or brand or who can make one I would be very happy.