00 CIVIC - Checked a curb and curb won; now my caster is off
I have 2000 Honda Civic EX 2dr coupe

(not actual pic)
I received my front LCA today and I only received the bronze part not the black part
what is the black colored part?
do i need that??
thanks

(not actual pic)
I received my front LCA today and I only received the bronze part not the black part
what is the black colored part?
do i need that??
thanks
I know. what is that part? i may need to replace it.
my problem is i checked a curb and the curb won. now my caster is off.
i just replaced the lca without "black part" no difference, maybe that "black part" is what i need.
I also see my front subframe has moved because i see where the screw impressions used to be
my problem is all explained in this forum.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/36...cs-posted.html
my problem is i checked a curb and the curb won. now my caster is off.
i just replaced the lca without "black part" no difference, maybe that "black part" is what i need.
I also see my front subframe has moved because i see where the screw impressions used to be
my problem is all explained in this forum.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/36...cs-posted.html
wait wait. The subframe has clearly moved, yet your screwing around with the control arms?!
The subframe has shifted, there for throwing off your caster.
That "black part" is part of the control arm, how you have not figured that out is beyond me. All you are doing is throwing money at the car.
The subframe has shifted, there for throwing off your caster.
That "black part" is part of the control arm, how you have not figured that out is beyond me. All you are doing is throwing money at the car.

You can't just JB Weld the subframe and expect it to be okay. You've got to get everything that was bent/damaged out of there and replace it, subframe sections included. You did the right thing replacing the control arm (it's a 2-piece part, btw), but that's only half the job. Rip out whatever is bent in the subframe and replace it, otherwise your alignment is never going to be right.
Also, I don't know if I'd trust JB Weld on a transmission housing crack for long. JB Weld is strong, but it has limits. It failed to hold my glovebox door together for more than a month.

You can't just JB Weld the subframe and expect it to be okay. You've got to get everything that was bent/damaged out of there and replace it, subframe sections included. You did the right thing replacing the control arm (it's a 2-piece part, btw), but that's only half the job. Rip out whatever is bent in the subframe and replace it, otherwise your alignment is never going to be right.
Also, I don't know if I'd trust JB Weld on a transmission housing crack for long. JB Weld is strong, but it has limits. It failed to hold my glovebox door together for more than a month.
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then replace the subframe!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you want to put washers on a major suspension component that will endanger you and everyone elses life that comes near that car. are you f-ing stupid???

All this is doing is, is a band aid. Fix the problem, DON'T COVER IT UP!!!!!
By the way, the "lca's" you ordered are one of the biggest wastes of money. I could have fixed the car for less then those damn things cost.
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From: wEsT of WattS...NoRth oF CompTon, CA
I havent read the write up to your problem. I had an EF that I hit the rear bumper of a truck. Bent the frame a little bit. When I got a wheel alignment a while after that they put 3 washers on the radius rods(that connect to the cross member) to make up the difference. by that time the car was a full on drag car. Went straight as an arrow.
OP, do what you have to do.
OP, do what you have to do.
I havent read the write up to your problem. I had an EF that I hit the rear bumper of a truck. Bent the frame a little bit. When I got a wheel alignment a while after that they put 3 washers on the radius rods(that connect to the cross member) to make up the difference. by that time the car was a full on drag car. Went straight as an arrow.
OP, do what you have to do.
OP, do what you have to do.
And yea, those LCAs are overkill. I would've just gotten Dorman or Moogs or whatever were on special on rockauto.com. But, hey, they're a pretty bronze color!
The problem with this is the fact it's not just a bent piece of metal, in his case. He's also got bolt holes that have sheared into grooves due to the force of the impact (if I'm picturing this right in my head). That particular piece of the subframe should be replaced. Otherwise, it'll simply shift back after a few thousand miles and put weird stress on the bolts holding it in place.
And yea, those LCAs are overkill. I would've just gotten Dorman or Moogs or whatever were on special on rockauto.com. But, hey, they're a pretty bronze color!
And yea, those LCAs are overkill. I would've just gotten Dorman or Moogs or whatever were on special on rockauto.com. But, hey, they're a pretty bronze color!

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ControlArms...LF00297/578921
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ControlArms...LF00298/578923
I havent read the write up to your problem. I had an EF that I hit the rear bumper of a truck. Bent the frame a little bit. When I got a wheel alignment a while after that they put 3 washers on the radius rods(that connect to the cross member) to make up the difference. by that time the car was a full on drag car. Went straight as an arrow.
OP, do what you have to do.
OP, do what you have to do.
To put it as nicely as I possibly can I'm hard pressed to believe you cannot take pictures from SOMETHING in this day and age.
Especially since it looks like you're throwing money away buying parts that aren't about to fix your problem.
And everyone you know does NOT own a cell phone or camera? Not that I believe you but...
Problem identified. OP refuses to listen to advice given. Thread has outlived its usefulness.
Problem identified. OP refuses to listen to advice given. Thread has outlived its usefulness.


