Front Upper Strut Bar - What are GOOD options, and look sexy.. *PICS*
Basically Im in the market for a front upper strut bar, Im sold that they actually do work and stiffen up the chassis so might aswell try one out. Im not set on any style or brand or 2 or 3 point.
Id just like to know whats out there, I personally would like the bar to look BEEFY, Im not into 1/8" brackets and chinese allen head grade 5 bolts
Show me pics, tell me pros and cons, clearance issues, ease of removal for maintenace etc
What are you guys running
Id just like to know whats out there, I personally would like the bar to look BEEFY, Im not into 1/8" brackets and chinese allen head grade 5 bolts
Show me pics, tell me pros and cons, clearance issues, ease of removal for maintenace etc
What are you guys running
Wrong. (and rear lower bars on 88~91s are pointless)
It goes under the front of the car at the LCAs.
It goes under the front of the car at the LCAs.
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Only the rear lower is. The structure of the 88~91 chassis is already very rigid and robust where the rear lower bar is supposed help out.
Compare the same part of the chassis to a 92~95 and you'll see it. 92~95 is really weak back there and adding a lower bar in a noticeable help.
Adding it to the 88~91 and it's added weight and a bling factor than anything else.
Compare the same part of the chassis to a 92~95 and you'll see it. 92~95 is really weak back there and adding a lower bar in a noticeable help.
Adding it to the 88~91 and it's added weight and a bling factor than anything else.
IMO you want a strut tower bar with no moving joints.
I personally went with the Neuspeed bar, but I'm sure any one piece bar would do the trick.
I personally went with the Neuspeed bar, but I'm sure any one piece bar would do the trick.
what do you guys think of this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170852280323...84.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170852280323...84.m1423.l2649
For my ED9 CRX I’m currently running the 3-point Password JDM upper tower bar
Pros: 3 points attached to the chassis
No pivot points
Looks cool
Cons: one bolt at firewall didn’t line up, so I had to ream the hole a little and add a big washer to distribute the load better.
If I were to replace it, I’d get a Carbing Front Stut Bar Type 1 (2-point)
Pros: Built in brake master cylinder stopper
No pivot poits
Looks cool
Cons: price, but it does serve 2 functions
Pros: 3 points attached to the chassis
No pivot points
Looks cool
Cons: one bolt at firewall didn’t line up, so I had to ream the hole a little and add a big washer to distribute the load better.
If I were to replace it, I’d get a Carbing Front Stut Bar Type 1 (2-point)
Pros: Built in brake master cylinder stopper
No pivot poits
Looks cool
Cons: price, but it does serve 2 functions
Where the crap does the 3 point bar bolt onto at the firewall??
I have an EF7 RHD so I guess it doesnt work for me but Im curious.
Ive never heard of a brake master cylinder stopper either, cant find any pics or info on that bar either.
I have an EF7 RHD so I guess it doesnt work for me but Im curious.
Ive never heard of a brake master cylinder stopper either, cant find any pics or info on that bar either.
[url]http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CA-6422050L
http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2156/dscn80230001lw5.jpg
http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2156/dscn80230001lw5.jpg
http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-3...n-P2931C4.aspx
Carbing Front Strut Bar Type 1 with brake master cylinder stopper:
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1567
Information on each bar provided in the above links.
You will have to specifically order a RHD Carbing strut bar so that the brake master cylinder stopper is on the right side.
The password 3 point in bronze looks sick as hell, especially if I can specify mine is RHD, not to many places would let me do that I dont think
They sure do take up a lot of room if youre trying to do regular maintenance and such though it looks compared to a 2 point
Is the 3 point THAT much stronger?
They sure do take up a lot of room if youre trying to do regular maintenance and such though it looks compared to a 2 point
Is the 3 point THAT much stronger?
This "DC Sports" looks nice as hell to, unique design never seen it anyways, it says it will fit like 10 chassis. Is that true it would bolt onto ours though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-SPORTS-FR...a3e181&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-SPORTS-FR...a3e181&vxp=mtr
Even the strut bar doesn't have pivot point and as straight as possible, the mount point still bend. I used tanabe, I know that not really good one, the bar it self strong as it can be design, but the mount is bend because off all the stress put on it. I use vision now, let see what gonna happen.
I think I may go with this one, I really like the design, it seems to be one of the only ones that curve the bar slightly to the front and doesnt completely cover the throttle body and intake manifold which is where most of my tinkering goes on, puts the bar in a nice area anyways to me, and the tube construction looks strong as ***** to me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170760096065...84.m1423.l2649
Only thing I dislike is that it only comes in white, but I can always paint or pwdercoat it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170760096065...84.m1423.l2649
Only thing I dislike is that it only comes in white, but I can always paint or pwdercoat it
The Neuspeed bar is probably one of the best designs out there. That and the PWJDM.
I've got NO IDEA what will fit with my engine though, I'm thinking the white one at the top though. My engine is HUGE
I've got NO IDEA what will fit with my engine though, I'm thinking the white one at the top though. My engine is HUGE
The Password JDM Bar installed in a 95 Civic Si. No mods had to be done at all in this case. Everything fit. No holes had to be drilled. Hardware included from PasJDM worked great.
I think the 3 point just takes up to much room in the bay. Im gonna stick with the straight 2 point across
Do you guys think the front lower bars have any impact?
Do you guys think the front lower bars have any impact?





