I have a 01' CRV 5 speed. It has 200k on it. I have read up on all the exhaust valve issues this gen had & continues to have. I did a compression test and facing the car from left to right the cylinders read 180, 180, 205, 150. With the last cylinder giving me the reading it did, I went ahead and adjusted the exhaust valves on that cylinder. I then checked the compression again. It only increased by 5 psi upping it to 155. A friend of mine told me to take a cap full of fresh oil and dump it into the cylinder and check the compression again. I did this, and the reading started at 215. I released the air and did it again, getting 210. repeating until it slowly kept decreasing to it's original pressure. This leading me to believe I may have a bad piston ring in that cylinder. Thus the car runs better, and I no longer get the misfire codes I got before adjusting the valves. I then drove it today about 10 miles on some back roads. Baby shifting at 2,500rpm. The CEL then came on, and 1 mile after it did, the car stalled out and it wouldn't start again for at least 10 minutes. I had my code reader with me so I checked it right there. This time the code was P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1. I cleared it, and thought maybe my cat was clogged or blocked. It stalled out 3-4 more times within the next 3 miles. One time as I tried to turn it over, white smoke began to come out of my intake box. Also leading me to believe the cat may be clogged and my engine is choking on it's own exhaust. I tried to rev it out to red line and maybe clear it's ***, but the car cut out at 5000-5500rpm and stalled out.
I got home and pulled the 2nd O2 sensor out and started the car letting it run and get to temp. It seemed to run better and smoother, but after about 15 min, it cut out again and stalled. Please help me, I'm trying to avoid doing a valve job and replacing that piston ring for just a little while longer. Have I tried everything? Any more idea's will be great help. THANKS!!!

 

imo
150 compression sucks. but shouldn't cause major issues. I think your correct in assuming the cat is causing problems, especially if you pull the o2 sensor out and it made a difference. How old is that cat?

 

I have no idea how old the cat is, but it's def after market. I think it's a cheap Denso one. It's fairly rusted, except for the heat shield around it. Noticed the O2 sensor going into it is after market as well. No CEL's what so ever though. Thinking I may pull the Main relay next. Does any Honda main relay work, or will it have to be from another 1st gen CRV?

 

How does the oil and radiator fluid look? Any leaking of fluid around the engine?

 

Oil and coolant look great. Just took the cat off and punched out what was left of the wafer. It's pretty much a straight pipe for a cat now. Replaced cap, rotor, wires and plugs. All genuine Honda parts. No CEL at all. Started her up, and let it run after just the cap rotor plug and wire change and it ran for about 15 min, then just shut off. Waiting now to see if the cat and tune up kit combo will help. Does the Main Relay have to be one from a first gen CRV? Or can it be from and OB2 Civic also?

 

civic would work for relay...check the part numbers...it should be the same
after it shuts off, will it start again?

 

if you aren't getting any relevant codes, what i'd do is install a fuel pressure gauge where you can see it when it dies. you want to pay close attention to the needle on the gauge when it dies. if the needle drops just before it dies, problem is fuel related. if not, it's more likely ignition related. this simple test will help you further troubleshoot the problem instead firing parts blindly

 

@ ARMED.......After it shuts off, it will not start agin for at least 10-20 min. This leads me to believe I have something getting too hot causing the car to just shut off. Ordered a new Main Relay and a ignition switch from Honda. They will be here tomorrow. Hopefully this does the trick.

 

fuel pump?

 

Fuel Pump will be my next adventure if the relay & ignition switch does solve it.

 

Ok, just replaced the Main Relay and the Ignition Switch. Started the car and let it run. After about 10 minutes of it running she just quit again. I'm thinking of trying the fuel pump next, but a buddy of mine has been suggesting the ECU. Just for future reference, what is the ECU number for a 2001 CRV? And do fuel pumps have a internal shut off if they get too hot? THANKS!!

 

your issue could be due to any number of components. test and confirm. then replace.
firing parts blindly is completely inefficient and costly. a fuel pressure test kit costs like 40$. you need to narrow it down to either fuel or ignition first. then proceed down the line troubleshooting from there. that's what the kit's for

 

Ok, thanks for the suggestion of the test kit. I will def give it a try. Still would like to know the ECU number for a '01 CRV anyways. Thanks!!

 

Quick update for everyone. Bought a new ignition coil from Honda for around $100. A buddy of mine gave me a new igniter (ICM) for the low low cost of free. Dropped the coil in, fired her up and she ran for a total of 8 minutes before stalling out. I then took the dizzy off again and replaced the igniter (ICM) this time. I knew right away upon starting her again she was running smoother. This time she never stalled out and I was able to drive her several miles with zero issues knock on wood. So after spending around $225 on OEM parts, it was the free part from my buddy that did the trick. Thanks for every ones input and suggestions. You have been a big help. THANKS!!!!

 

nvm