Please keep in mind I know nothing about cars. I just got this car little while back as my first vehicle. It is a work vehicle believe it or not.

So my buddy sold it to me at 122k miles says he had an oil change, just got it changed the other day right under 132k.

So my car was making a clicking noise upon light acceleration. The more my foot was in it the less clicking though as soon as I took my foot out of it then stop. Holding it around 3-3.5 RPMS it would click while going steady. If I put my foot in it it would stop until about 4.5-5k and then start with the noise again.

It just got really bad and stopped, had to pull over and the engine would start up with that noise but as soon as I put any load on the engine, turning the weel would cut the engine, I could rev it but soon as I stopped revving it would die.

Any insight on what is going on would be helpful, if you need more info from me I will be watching the thread and will provide any info you need to help me better understand whats going on. I appreciate anyone's time and help.

Thanks,
Greg

 

Is your check engine light on? Does it smell like something's burning? Could be your clutch, could be a random sensor. Just take it to a mechanic you trust, this doesn't sound like a DIY job if you don't know much about cars.

 

Why did you go 10k miles without an oil change?

Sounds like your engine is knocking and you probably spun a bearing, I'm betting you will need a new engine.

 

10k with no oil change?!?!?!

 

Yes 10k without a change. Like I said this is a work vehicle and I can put on 500 miles a day so it adds up quick. Lots of highway driving. I took it to a shop and did more diggin online and contacted previous owner.

The spark plugs had never been changed since the guy got it at 30k miles. I would be really lucky if this was the case. The shop put a jump box on it and they told me it fired right up no problem.

Check engine light is on. Hoping it is just an electrical problem. Any more thoughts?

Also no burning smell... And the sound came from driver front. I do know the cv joints need replaced as well.

 

There shouldn't be an issue with 10k oil change intervals, it's honda's non-severe use service interval... there's a number oil analysis results out there to prove it's validity, as well as numerous high-mile ep3s/rsxs.

Go get that check engine code read/translated. i'd also pull the valve cover off, see if there are any obvious accelerated wear issues with the cams etc.

 

I have ~220,000 on my EP3 and it still runs strong, but I'm the original owner so I know everything I've done to the car and exactly how it's been maintained. If your engine was taken care of, 130K is nothing.

Around 160K, I thought it would be a good idea to check valve lash since I hadn't up till that time. It sounded like one of the #4 rockers was getting noisy so I pulled the valve cover off and almost had a heart attack when I saw the #4 exaust lobe. It was bad; the roller wore a ~.200" deep groove in the lobe and the ramp had deep pits and scars.

The roller & rocker were fine, it was like that exhaust lobe didn't get a proper heat treat from the factory. So I bought a spare K20A3 for $200, swapped exhaust cams, set lash, and it's been great ever since.

If I were you, I'd take the VC off, check your cams and set/verify lash. If it's a mechanical problem under the head, I'd just consider swapping in a new motor since they are so cheap & plentiful now. It's hard for me to justify spending any $ on diagnosis or labor on a A3.

 

Scmil, good info! Just curious, what year is your ep3 & what oil grade have you been using?

 

I bought it new in april 02. I'm not picky when it comes to oil but I would say 9 out of 10 oil changes have been a semi-synth 5w-30. If not, 5w-30 dino. Rarely do I use 5w-20. Pretty much only if it's on sale.

It's been running on my AEM tune for the last 130k or so it hasn't ran on a stock ecu in years. I put the aem in it around 90k, I was throwing a secondary 02 code and the exhaust was getting really sooty at the time. Now (130,000 miles later) the tops of my pistons look clean, exhaust cleared up, and no matter how much I beat on it, I average ~30 mpg per tank.

 

Well the verdict of the check engine light came back with 5 readings, one which was Vtech malfunction.

Had a specialist take a look at it and got the call today that the engine is dead.

So looks like I will be throwing a new engine in it.... any advice or good resources or any place thats got some good deals?

 

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30032

Steve at HMotors stands behind everything he sells, so you pay a little premium for that insurance.
Craigslist is where I found my $200 engine but the #3 main was toast (which was fine w/me since I just needed a cam).

 

Well the shop I have it in right now says he won't mess with any engine other than what came in it going off the vin number.

Says he found one for 1600 shipped and then 3600-3800 total for instal on a motor with 130k miles out of an 03.

Is this really my only option? I would love to upgrade but he says when you get into that you cause more problems so he doesn't even want to mess with it. Should I call around to other shops?

 

It's hard for me to tell you what to do becuase if I were in your shoes, I'd be yanking it out myself this saturday morning and turning the key on a K24 sunday.

$1600 for a K20A3 is steep, and 20-22 hours @ $100/hour for the swap seems a bit high, but... I'm guessing you don't really have the time or resources to shop around.

Where are you located?

 

I live in Tulsa Oklahoma. I'm so torn what to do. Off that hmotorsonline there is that type r with the transmission for 4000 before shipping and handling but I don't have the resources I got the time but no resources.

 

Great Scott that's expensive! Your mechanic doesn't sound like he's too familiar with Honda K20 engines...they are all plug and play, the sensors and engine mount locations are all the same. It really is straight forward, so you may consider going to someone else. Plus the prices he's trying to charge you is a down right rip off.

You can swap in a cheaper, more torquey K24 Accord engine (usually costs $800-$1k SHIPPED for the longblock), mate it to your current transmission, and be back on the road.

 

1600 for an a3 with 130k on it..gtfo. haha thats ridiculous..and his rates are nothin short of criminal

 

Out of personal curiosity, anyone know how many hours a dealership charges to R&R a K-series? Or an AllData labor rate? Before everyone trashes this guys mechanic, I'm just thinking 20-22 hours is probably book rate for the labor.

 

Answering my own question for everyone's benefit: according to AllData, R&R-ing a K-series longblock is 15 hours + .5 hours for accessories.

 

1600 is not a terrible price. it is a shop and they're not gonna go trolling craigslist for a motor. i doubt there are many ep3's in oklahoma, let alone one that is salvaged but with a good motor still.