My Friend has a 2000 Civic SI w/ GSR swap and a b16 tranny. For some reason the car has no power IAB valve is hook up correctly and working... Engine timing is correct and ignition timing is set correctly. Motor was rebuild 10k ago. Check compression was good across the board. He also ran it at the track ran a 15.9. Any ideas what else to look for ? This car can not be this slow

 

You need to let us know all of what his build consists of.
ECU, exhaust, any other supporting mods, and if there are any ECU faults present(check engine light)

15.9 timeslip doesnt sound to well off of what it should be in that heavy car with a stock GSR swap, expecially if the ECU mapping is slightly incorrect, or the exhaust flow is choked up, but more info on the car will let the community know more about what the problem may be.
Also post your friends time-slip so avid 1/4 mile guys can pick it apart if thats the problem.

 

This Car has I/H/E and no cat. and a stage comp. 2clutch. Thats all the mods that are done to the car. Also I has the stock p72 obd2a ecu. This is the part which I haven't seen before... It has a conversion harness for obd2b to obd2a.
As for check engine lights there was one code for crank sensor fluctuation that came up 2 days, but we found the problem and there is no check engine light now.

As for time slip If he still has it I will post ASAP.
But its not a driver issue at the track. We did a pull on the highway against my stock 07 accord V6(15.4@91.11) and he couldnt hang what so ever

Now the only reason why I say this car isn't running at is full potential is because another buddy of mine has a 97 civic DX with a complete gsr swap, GSR tranny (not a b16 like the 2000 si) with I/H/E with no cat and he is running 14.7.

 

Hey man, Im the owner of the Si, When i rebuilt the motor 10k ago, I rebuilt it with all Honda parts, replacing pretty much everything except for the pistons, crank, or cams. The after market parts are ARP head studs, dual Blox valve Springs, Supertech valve seals, and ACL rod bearings. Everything else was straight from Honda. Then i blew the diff in the b16 tranny and got that rebuilt with a new diff and syncros 2k after the motor rebuild.

And for the quarter mile times; The 15.9 was my best and only got it once. (iv ran my car around 15-20 x) Im averaging about 16.1 and 16.2
But heres my info for the 15.9 run

0.000 TREE -0.500
DIAL-IN -0.00
REACTION -0.017
60 -2.432
330 -6.795
660 -10.363
MPH1 -69.24
1000 -13.399
1320 -15.98
MPH2 -87.43


AND THIS IS A 16.1 RUN

0.000 TREE -0.500
DIAL-IN -0.00
REACTION -0.165
60 -2.615
330 -7.023
660 -10.553
MPH1 -69.99
1000 -13.567
1320 -16.124
MPH2 -88.35



Now u must know that when i ran that 15.9, i DID NOT have my IAB solenoid on the motor and for that 16.1 i did have it on and connected.

thanks

 

with the circumstances givin I cannot see where the choke is coming from other than

low compression (improper ring seal) this would have been established during the break-in period, and mostly occurs with our vehicles due to a rich condition during the break-in period which ends up washing the bores and ruining your chance of a sucessfull ring seal.

with the fuel used even if mechanical/cam timing is correct, its possible she could benifit from a slight increase of timing.

rich/lean condition that the trims of your obd system cannot combat which is most likely not the case if running that ECU. As you would def net engine faults(codes) pertaining to that

Or if you are experiencing detonation that triggers the ECU to pull timing to combat that.

Im sure youve heard this, or have already tried but go out and safely do a pull in second or third gear and remember as much as possible the power delivery characteristics. reset the ECU by removing the negative cable from battery and tap the brake pedal to drain excess voltage if any. Then go out and quickly duplicate that same pull in the same gear, same place and let your butt dyno see if any improvement was gained.
As learned timing and fueling values will also reset along with the ECU reset.

 

Thanks a lot for the help, and i tried doing that trick u said and i didn't feel that noticeable of a difference. I realize i don't have like any low end torque, which make me look at my IAB solenoid, cuz i disconnected the power going to it and i have a lot better low end power, and with it connected i feel like the car is slower

 

Check oil pressure

 

Possibly IAB is stuck open causing a lean condition? Disconnect it with the car running and listen for a difference. Watch the valve and see if it moves when reconnected etc.

 

When the car is KOEO, and i remove a wire going to it, u can hear the suction going away, and when i reconnect the wire, U can hear it suck air back in the canister.
When the car is sitting at a idle(with it all connected) the valve moves up, Then if i rev the car past 6 grand, the valve drops. Is this the way its suppose to be?

 

It is working correctly. The valve allows vacuum to close the baffles when at low rpm' s, then cuts off vacuum to the actuator, at a certain high rpm, so the baffles open for more air delivery. So that rules that out. What were his compression numbers dry and wet. Did he use all stock parts to rebuild? Does he have a speaker system? (Weight difference)

 

ok. I only did a dry test when i did it a few months ago and it was Cylinder 1 was 185, 2 was 195, 3 was 205, 4 was 200. (i needed a valve adjustment when i took these measurements, if that makes a difference). And yeah stock Honda parts for the rebuild. and it did have a speaker system with subs in the trunk, but i took them out before i went to the track every time

 

It matters about the valve adjustment if they were too tight and holding the valve open. All I can think of is, do another compression test (dry and wet) and see what the #'s are. Those numbers are all over the place. They are within 10% of each other, but barely. 1 and 3 are at like 9.8% of each other. Check my math if i am wrong 185/205=.9024 or 90.24% or 9.86% difference.

 

not really the best compression. i have seen 175k oem gsr motors with 210 on all 4. could be curious what a cylinder leakdown would show.

this is also one of the reasons "built" motors are worth less than high mile oe engines.

unless a shop that actually knows what they are doing does the build this happens frequently. want to know how much endyn charges to rebuild a B series short block? $2500 and that's not counting pistons and rods if you upgrade those.

more and more broke weirdos are getting into these cars and more and more of the people who actually had nice golden era hondas are selling them.

very VERY few well done cars in my area and i'm sure it's similar elsewhere.

 

Alright, i got the numbers from the updated compression test.

Wet,
Cyl 1- 191
cyl2- 200
cyl3- 195
cyl4- 203

Dry,
Cyl 1- 190
cyl2- 200
cyl3- 195
cyl4- 200

There all in spec so idt this would be my power issue. I took a video of my IAB valve just so u can confirm their working properly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcyYY...ature=youtu.be

 

Im going to agree with racebum on the slightly lower then should be numbers for your gsr.
Im still questioning your initial break-in period, and ringseal in general.

And 15.9-16.3 ETA is still IMO not far off from what it really is, remember bulky EM1+stock GSR = less then you are thinking, expecially at that lower then stock compression.

 

^ exactly what i thought.

 

So my compression at that state will effect my horsepower? Isnt that still in factory spec?

 

Yes it is in spec, but the lower the compression the lower the power. Just put a turbo at about 8psi, have it tuned, and drive it. you will be happy with it then. Just dont use ebay crap.

 

And get out of the hole quicker.

2.5 and 2.6 60 ft's can be brushed up on.
That makes up for the difference in the two timeslips.
something your doing at and off the line that needs to be corrected.