AWD Wagon B Series Swap
haven't been able to find a definitive answer on this, so whoever chimes in, please KNOW what needs to be done, not just speculating.
I understand the B series engine will work fine, but the trans needs to be that of a CRV, assuming the CRV 5speed trans has the same SL gear layout and also uses cables as apposed to linkage.
Other than that, I heard the drive shaft needs to be used from a CRV, and shortened to fit the wagon...similar to the B series linkage on a D series chassis.
Anything else besides this stuff? I could have sworn there are B to D adapter plates, right?
I understand the B series engine will work fine, but the trans needs to be that of a CRV, assuming the CRV 5speed trans has the same SL gear layout and also uses cables as apposed to linkage.
Other than that, I heard the drive shaft needs to be used from a CRV, and shortened to fit the wagon...similar to the B series linkage on a D series chassis.
Anything else besides this stuff? I could have sworn there are B to D adapter plates, right?
CRV's do not have a SL gear. I'm not 100% on the cables, but since the D16A6 and B20 spin the same direction and the trans is in the same location I'd imagine the wagon cables would work fine if there are no fitment issues between the shift levers on the CRV trans and the wagon shifter cables.
Pretty sure you'll need the CRV rear diff as well since the wagon has the differential in the drive shaft and the CRV rear diff performs the same function.
The trans mount on the passenger frame rail is not in the same location as other 4th Gen Civics. So keep that in mind when you are sourcing/making mounts.
The CRV trans uses a hydraulic clutch and the wagon uses a cable clutch. There are a few companies that have mechanical and hydraulic converters that utilize the clutch cable for operation. A company in Illinois makes an adaptor to put a master cylinder on the pedal assembly and ditch the clutch cable.
A B-to-D adapter would probably be the easier option if there is no interference with the driver's side frame rail.
Pretty sure you'll need the CRV rear diff as well since the wagon has the differential in the drive shaft and the CRV rear diff performs the same function.
The trans mount on the passenger frame rail is not in the same location as other 4th Gen Civics. So keep that in mind when you are sourcing/making mounts.
The CRV trans uses a hydraulic clutch and the wagon uses a cable clutch. There are a few companies that have mechanical and hydraulic converters that utilize the clutch cable for operation. A company in Illinois makes an adaptor to put a master cylinder on the pedal assembly and ditch the clutch cable.
A B-to-D adapter would probably be the easier option if there is no interference with the driver's side frame rail.
CRV's do not have a SL gear. I'm not 100% on the cables, but since the D16A6 and B20 spin the same direction and the trans is in the same location I'd imagine the wagon cables would work fine if there are no fitment issues between the shift levers on the CRV trans and the wagon shifter cables.
Pretty sure you'll need the CRV rear diff as well since the wagon has the differential in the drive shaft and the CRV rear diff performs the same function.
The trans mount on the passenger frame rail is not in the same location as other 4th Gen Civics. So keep that in mind when you are sourcing/making mounts.
The CRV trans uses a hydraulic clutch and the wagon uses a cable clutch. There are a few companies that have mechanical and hydraulic converters that utilize the clutch cable for operation. A company in Illinois makes an adaptor to put a master cylinder on the pedal assembly and ditch the clutch cable.
A B-to-D adapter would probably be the easier option if there is no interference with the driver's side frame rail.
Pretty sure you'll need the CRV rear diff as well since the wagon has the differential in the drive shaft and the CRV rear diff performs the same function.
The trans mount on the passenger frame rail is not in the same location as other 4th Gen Civics. So keep that in mind when you are sourcing/making mounts.
The CRV trans uses a hydraulic clutch and the wagon uses a cable clutch. There are a few companies that have mechanical and hydraulic converters that utilize the clutch cable for operation. A company in Illinois makes an adaptor to put a master cylinder on the pedal assembly and ditch the clutch cable.
A B-to-D adapter would probably be the easier option if there is no interference with the driver's side frame rail.
Oh well.
You'll need to tap the holes in the block for the jack-shaft on the Z6. It's a lot easier to do this outside of the engine bay and on a stand.
Besides just tapping the holes, make sure you cut the bevel deep enough for the step on the jack-shaft bolts to tighten down all the way. You won't be able to tighten the bolts down far enough if you don't cut the bevel deeper. Ask me how I know.
Besides just tapping the holes, make sure you cut the bevel deep enough for the step on the jack-shaft bolts to tighten down all the way. You won't be able to tighten the bolts down far enough if you don't cut the bevel deeper. Ask me how I know.
You'll need to tap the holes in the block for the jack-shaft on the Z6. It's a lot easier to do this outside of the engine bay and on a stand.
Besides just tapping the holes, make sure you cut the bevel deep enough for the step on the jack-shaft bolts to tighten down all the way. You won't be able to tighten the bolts down far enough if you don't cut the bevel deeper. Ask me how I know.
Besides just tapping the holes, make sure you cut the bevel deep enough for the step on the jack-shaft bolts to tighten down all the way. You won't be able to tighten the bolts down far enough if you don't cut the bevel deeper. Ask me how I know.

For the d-series that came in the USDM 4th Gens...yes.
I have one on my B16B, and I believe many of the performance B-series have them as well.
It will looks something like this >
I have one on my B16B, and I believe many of the performance B-series have them as well.
It will looks something like this >
Those 3 holes need to be bolted onto the trans housing?
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A B-to-D adapter would probably be the easier option if there is no interference with the driver's side frame rail.
The easy way out would be Evolution's b2d conversion bracket allowing a d series tranny on b series motor. making it so you can use the stock wagon tranny. Not sure why somebody would want to do that on a normal FWD car so i'm assuming they made it specifically for the setup i'm speaking of.
Long story short, this is too much of a hassle and too much trial and error. I'm going to find me a nice sohc ZC engine and keep it stock and natural.
there's a guy on here that did this swap a little while back, he made an adapter plate that bolts to the crv transmission that allows the civic drive shaft to be bolted up to it. i don't remember if he had to shorten the drive line or not though
yeppers, i did this swap back around 04. was a super fun car, and I really miss it. wasnt the fastest, but with jun stage three cams, and portflow valvetrain it got the job done handily at our local autoxs. definatly my fav of all the builds Ive done.
feel free to pm me any questions you have if you havent talked yourself out of the swap yet.
feel free to pm me any questions you have if you havent talked yourself out of the swap yet.
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turboblack2door
Transmission & Drivetrain
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Jun 11, 2011 07:57 AM




