I was wondering what type of set-ups you guys are running, also are your internals built up and what not..Thanx..Pics wouldent hurt...

 

Me and my buddies are still working on my car.. Right now, my car is at my other buddy's body shop for a new paint job.... look at my sig for turbo info..

 

Id reccomend building your bottom end 1st, then putting on a custom kit, but if you want to boost on stock internals, dont exceed 8 psi.

 

it's coming, full build up, my car is sitting on jack stands outside my dad's shop right now, but the engine is slowly, and accuratley being assembled inside the shop.
H22A4 in my 97 Prelude, daily driven:
GE Sleeves, .25 over
Eagle Rods (balanced by VS Racing)
JE 10.0:1 Comp pistons (Balanced by VS Racing)
GE Intake Manifold (thanks Vince)
Prodrive Oil Pump gear
knife-edge and balanced crank by KMS (http://www.honda-performance.com)
Moroso Oil Pan
KMS stage 2 head job
KMS stainless steel nitrided valves
Crower Stage 2T cams
Crower valve springs
Crower Titanium retainers
RC 550cc injectors
AEM high flow fuel rail
AEM FPR
Erick's Racing TB
NX Directport
NX N-ter cooler kit
GReddy based turbo kit (TD05/18G, soon upgraded to a BB 20G or bigger)
GReddy FMIC
Greddy Type S BOV
Custom FMIC piping by Smith Family Tire in Hendersonville NC (he drives a mean RX-7)
Hondata s200 w/ datalogger
APEXi AVC-R
HKS Type O turbo timer
Walbro Fuel Pump
Quaife LSD
DSS stage 3 axels

 

If you haven't got the injectors yet, get the 720s. The 550s will be starting to hit max duty cycle at 350hp or so using stock fuel pressure. With a fully built block the 720s will give you a better safety margin. If you're really planning on dragging with those stage 3 axles and big boost you probably want to go 850cc -> 1000cc.

 

i got the 550s for free, the'll work ok until i really wanna cank up the boost, but yes, i do plan to some ~850cc injectors soon

 

Well, you can't beat free.

 

free stuff rocks

i actually dont plan on it really bein and all out drag car or anything, it's my street car, daily driver, for the most part. the axles and what not are a bit of overkill, but for that occasional trip down the strip, i wanna be sure that everything stay together

 

Yeah, wow very nice set-up....What are some of the times that you pulled you bought the Greddy based kit? How is the 18g doing you?

 

give me about another months and i'll let ya know, the engines still kinda in pieces.

 

I'm Pleased with the setup, aside from my heating, and cooling proplems I need to take care of. 328 HP and 254 TQ at 9 PSI....Expensive

My Setup:
JG Closed deck sleeved H22
3"downpipe
Arias 9.0-1's
Eagle Rods
RC 720 cc's
STR Fuel Rail
STR Cam Gears
Custom manifold
Turbonetics T60-1 HiFi (ball bearing)
Mark II Wastegate
Custom intercooler piping (Needs redone, very ugly)
ACCEL DFI EMS
Holley Fuel Reg
ART Fuel Pump
MSD SCI
Blitz BOV
High Rev Springs
Titanium Retainers
(probably forgot some....)

 

Ya, but dude, your car blew up again.

 

Im curious about KMS's work. A friend and I were talking about our Preludes, and he mentioned them, but neither of us know anyone who has had work done by them. Have you gotten any of your parts back from them? And if you dont mind telling, how much was the head work? (You can even email me privately if you dont want to post it) Have they done a lot of H22A head work? I have a spare H22A head I want worked over, but I havent decided who is going to do it. Thanks!

 

Damn, your **** blew up?

 

how much did u pay to have your motor sleeved (including the sleeves.)

 

check my sig... pix and specs are in it...

 

i already got the crank back, and it is beautiful, it lost about 6 lbs too. the head should be back in a couple of days, so i don't know about the work on that. the guy that owns it, John, is a really nice guy, i've spoken with him personally every time i called. yes, it did take some time to get my crank back, but, well, it's kinda a long story, but so far, so good. like i said, i should be seeing the head back any day now.

as for pricing, if i remember correctly, the break down was about $750 for the stage 2 head job, about $300 for all 16 valves, and about $360 for the knife-edging and balancing. their website gives an accurate description of what they do in a stage 2 head, but the pricing on their site is inaccurate (it's actually cheaper than what the site says)

here are some pics, i will have more soon, i hope
http://www.fletcherlawnandgarden.com/racingpics.html


[Modified by Boosted97Lude, 10:58 PM 10/16/2002]

 

My brother and I hooked up his car... I have some pics at
http://shell1.csionline.net/~rj162/pics/billy/ (that's the work in progress but doesn't cover all the work) and http://shell1.csionline.net/~rj162/pics/billy/current/ which are some current pics of it but with the addition of a custom RollHard 3" Exhaust and a nitrous express intercooler fogger kit (and yes, even just blowing the nitrous over the intercooler makes a HELL of a difference). The track we run at is said to be about .5 seconds slower than a track like Maple Grove, but running 9 pounds on stock internals gets it to about 13.6 or so (which would be a 13.1 if that .5 is right) with full interior and PS, AC, etc... and with the fogging it drops down into the 12.8 range.

 

dude..... you've got an underdrive crank pulley on a turbo car?!?!?!?!!?? that an accident waiting to happen, i hope your bros got a lot of dought to put that thing back to gether when it blows up from oilpump failure

 

oh **** i have one too. (crank pulley)

 

i did some research on it, b/c i thought i would do it when i put my engine back in, i talked to Unorthodox, and they said "it's not that the pulley can casue pump failure, but that in high HP applications with turbo, the oil pump itself is not suffecient." but i know of guys pushing 600+ whp with stock oil pumps.

so i put 1+1 together and figure that Unorthodox was just telling me that **** to cover their own asses, and that an underdrive pulley with turbo coul actually F*ck some **** up.

 

should i put on my stock one? i wil have 6-7 psi on h23.

 

i honestly don't know about that, my suggestion is to do a search in the FI forum, that's what i did

 

A turbo has nothing to do with the effects of a solid crank pulley. It's not a good idea to replace the harmonic balancer with a solid crank pulley no matter what the application.

 

i'm just goin by what i've been tols, i'd rather be safe than sorry either way myself, even though i have an underdrive pulley on my race car, but then again, it doesn't see near the amount of mileage either