SO I'm new to the forums just picked up a 5th gen and trying to fix it up make it look good and all that BUT.

On installation of my ebay cold air intake i have run into some problems with excess hoses (no not the hose that comes from the valve cover) and a single box with a butterfly valve in it being left out of the intake channel i really have no clue what they are maybe emissions control or something like that?

yes i have searched the forums for any help and i cant find anything specific to what I am dealing with

Any help would be greatly appreciated! im sure there is someone out there who has delt with the same problem

 

That box and hoses are part of the intake resonator system. It is not a necessary part and you can remove them. Make sure to cap the hose fitting at the manifold after you remove the hoses.

 

Well it's not the resonator box I already took that out . On the oem intake tube there is another tube that comes off and goes to a black box with a butter fly valve in it like the throttle body, it then has three tubes that come off of it and go to some sensors else where in the car so I'm not quite sure what they are and right now the intake is installed but there is one metal line coming off the fuel rail sucking in air and then the black box is sitting loose but still attached

All I want to know is what needs to be there and what dosent

 

expect to waste more gas with that ebay "cold air intake" and youll need a tune to actually gain anything from this. ive seen plenty of videos on youtube about intake upgrades without a tune will actually rob horse power

 

The only reason you would waste more gas is because you are heavy footed to hear the noise. The intake itself will not affect your gas mileage by much.

The f series also do not gain much power at all just from an intake. I'm not sure where you're pulling your information from but it's incorrect.

 

Tune for a CAI, that's a noob one! I could see maybe resetting the ECU, but a full tune....not worth it.

I was getting 30-34MPG on my F22B2 with a cold air intake, 4-2-1 header and 255cc injectors..... No tune! Not sure if I gained any power but she sure sounded sweet when I got on the gas.

 

I don't want people telling me what it won't and will do I understand what it does I'm not mechanically challenged but it seems I'm just going to have to read up on this one..

 

Ghost already answered your question.

You can safely remove all those items attached to the intake and cap off any vacuum nipples on the intake manifold if there are extra ones. Those items are not even present on DX and LX models - just the EX. And they are most definitely part of the resonator system. The single resonator you removed that resides in the fender well/bumper cover area is only one of several.

 

well i have it straight now only thing is the check engine light is on and im prity sure it has something to do with one of the resanator boxes because it had a sensor on it but im going to take it down to the autoshop soon and let them read the code could be something else seeing the car has 260,000 miles hahaha

but thanks for the info!

 

Non of the intake resonator sensors/solenoids will throw an ECU diagnostics trouble code. You may have disconnected an emissions/EGR sensor or maybe loosened a connector for one of the PGM-FI related sensors.

You can retrieve the codes yourself if you want too. The 94 Accord has a self diagnostics connector known as the service check connector or SCS. There are a number of paperclip DIY threads on here. If you search for self diagnostics, diagnostic trouble codes or paper clip method you should find one.

 

Ok thanks! ill look into it

 

Finally, I've been looking for a resolution for that dam box. Thanks

 

This is wrong.... I disconnected my resonator box and plugged EVERYTHING off, lost tons of power!

I added the resonator with the CAI and the PLUG back on the box... All my power came back INSTANTLY!

There HAS to be a resistor and/or diode to trick the CPU Into thinking that is STILL there! But its gone... As I don't think it has ANYTHING to do with the vacuum lines!
.
A DIY would be GREAT for this! Maybe I'LL test it until I get it right and then I'll make y'all one.....

This is NOT just a "cap a 2" hole in stock intake pipe and pull off resonator." DOESN'T WORK! Atleast not for ALL! Obviously

 

These are the K&N installation instructions.

http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-1208_inst.pdf

 

What brand CAI did you use?
What did you plug off exactly?
The resonator/muffler assembly is the factory lower cold air intake, sooo you don't have the CAI if the factory bits are still there.
You just went full potato, never go mashed.
What in the blue blazes are you going on about.

Here is AEMs CAI installation instructions...
http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-408_inst.pdf

Removal of the 'Intake Air Resonator' and on VTEC cars the 'Fuel Injection Air' control is also removed. The vacuum feed for one is capped off, and the other either plugs back into the new air tube or a divorced filter is supplied for the FIA control solenoid. PCV filtered air feed should be reattached from the valve cover to the new intake tubing.

There are no electronic or electrical controls. Just vacuum controls.

 

Ok. .. so its not a cold air intake PERSAY!

Its the stock tubing (still has the "upper" resonator), I just used a piece of PVC Pipe to connect the stock tube and an airfilter, down where the stock airbox sits!

That said, I capped off the two vacuum lines that hook to the bottom resonater (the one that has a the throttle body type ordeal on it and goes to a 2"(+-) hole on the bottom of the stock rubber intake hose - also has a 2 plug electric connector, as well as 2 vacuum lines. One goes to the upper portion of the firewal to a long pipe and the other goes to a box underneath the passenger headlight) it connected via. Hose to the bottom of the stock intake tube.

I capped off that big hole with a piece of round aluminum from the machine shop. But when I remove the vacuum lines and cap both sides, then unplug the electric plug, car runs like PURE CRAP!

I've managed to keep the vacuum lines connected, the power plug connected and just let it sit down in a hole! If I disconnect it in ANY WAY (it seems), it'll run like pure ***! The big hole is still capped off on the intake pipe, but, I'm not going out and buying a nice CAI before I know I can run it without that resonator, which also flips my check engine light ON TOP of making the car run bad!

Now that THAT'S better explained, can someone help me out??

 

Why don't you just leave your stock intake installed? They work better, look better (generally), and are tuned FOR YOUR MOTOR.

 

take some pics of what you got and the part number

 

So you have an Home Depot short ram intake?
What car do you have?
This does not sound like a '94-'97 CD Accord.
What electrical connector did you unplug?
What are you removing exactly?
When installing a CAI/SR system two components are bypassed/removed, but the controls for them are left intact so as not to affect any other controls on the engine. If you are just blindly removing parts with no understanding of what they do, problems will occur.

What;
Year
Model
Sub model
Engine

... do you have? Then, maybe, we can help you.

 

It is for any 94-97, 5th Gen, Accord with a 4 cylinder under the hood! If you lost tones of power with the proper installation of a quality CAI. There is something else wrong with your engines setup????? Without more information it's hard to tell. 99.9% of the 5th gen Accords that I have worked on have had positive gains from the CAI instal. May not be a huge gain in WHP however at the very least it should move it up in the RPM range and IMO they sound nice as well.

 

Odds are he bought some cheap ebay special.

 

What? No.... My car is BONE STOCK!

I have an F22B1 5speed, in its STOCK car, which is a 1994 Accord Ex WAGON!

Want a pic? I'll show u EVERYTHING! Here goes nothing, help me get this **** out of my way! Lol...

FIRST, here's a picture of under the hood! Notice that big *** thing making my intake look RETARDED? It USED to mount under the stock intake, and have a tube going from the "throttle body thing" to the 2" hole that is NOW plugged by a piece of aluminum!



See, here's the hole that's plugged off, under the intake pipe...



Here's the "device" itself...







Okie doke... Now that you SEE it, lemme show you where ALL she connects and whatnot....!

Here's a plug, that NO ONE ever mentions putting a resistor/diode or ANYTHING on, yet, when unplugged the check engine light comes on! :confused:



Then we have 2 vacuum hoses that connect elsewhere on the car, again... Not a single direction on what to do with these, so I capped BOTH when I first did it (shortly after, realizing my car had lost SIGNIFICANT power!)



Number 1 goes up to the firewall, into a metal pipe, that takes it to the other side of the car. It also has an inline "check valve" and the pipe pulls VACUUM when you put your finger to it?





Number 2 vacuum line goes to the FRONT of the car, in between the battery and stock intake mounts, underneath of the passenger blinker! To what? I have NO IDEA! But it's a nipple there....

(I even pointed it out, this is facing the front of the car!)



NOW, HOW THE HELL I THIS THING "DELETED", AS THE WAY I HAVE IT NOW IS THE ONLY WAY IT WORKS! NOT BUYING A "NICE INTAKE" WHEN I DON'T EVEN KNOW IF IT'LL WORK!!!!

 

Having owned a '96 Honda Accord EX with the same engine I can assure you that ripping all of that stuff out in favor of an actual SRI or CAI intake system does not cause any issues, CELs, etc.

 

Here is how it should look!



Remove all of that black rubber crap, and that air resonator box as well. Disconnect all the sensors from it and tuck the wire connectors out of the way. Pull any vacuum lines from the solenoids and cap them at there source...usually somewhere on the intake manifold... little brass nipples. You can buy caps for them for a few bucks at most auto parts stores.

 

I have done essentially the same thing on my 94 except I switched to a Prelude intake. Took all the extra stuff off including the box behind the battery. I can't tell any difference in the way it runs or sounds, but there is a lot less stuff under the hood.