popping and jerking in front left LSD ?
I am having a issue with jerking and popping in my left front does it going forward
And more when turning right than when it does going straight and left. I haveput new axles, new bearings, pulled the cross shaft checked it ? Has anyone ever had an issue with an
Lsd doing that please respond..
And more when turning right than when it does going straight and left. I haveput new axles, new bearings, pulled the cross shaft checked it ? Has anyone ever had an issue with an
Lsd doing that please respond..
It sounds like the problem is inside the transmission itself. Diff noises on a Honda usually sound like they're from the LF.
Put the car in the air and turn the front wheels by hand. When one is turned, the other should follow in the same direction. Both wheels should turn smoothly without requiring significant effort...it'll be a little harder than turning a wheel attached to an open diff (or especially an undriven wheel), but you shouldn't struggle.
You'll usually hear a little 'swish' type noise that comes from the brake pads lightly dragging on the rotor. Otherwise, there should be no other audible noise. Lightly lay your hand on one of the of the coil springs- the car's springs are exceptional at transmitting subtle vibration. I would expect to hear or feel a 'rachety' type noise and/or vibration that is being generated by a bad bearing or chewed up gears.
I would wager that your problem is one of the side bearings in the differential is going bad, which is making the wheel on that side a little harder to turn. I wouldn't think the issue would be within the viscous coupling itself (that's a viscous LSD, right?).
edit: if it's a bearing, it's likely the one on the right side, as that's the side that experiences axial loading as the helical ring gear is 'pushed' over by the pinion gear as it spins.
Put the car in the air and turn the front wheels by hand. When one is turned, the other should follow in the same direction. Both wheels should turn smoothly without requiring significant effort...it'll be a little harder than turning a wheel attached to an open diff (or especially an undriven wheel), but you shouldn't struggle.
You'll usually hear a little 'swish' type noise that comes from the brake pads lightly dragging on the rotor. Otherwise, there should be no other audible noise. Lightly lay your hand on one of the of the coil springs- the car's springs are exceptional at transmitting subtle vibration. I would expect to hear or feel a 'rachety' type noise and/or vibration that is being generated by a bad bearing or chewed up gears.
I would wager that your problem is one of the side bearings in the differential is going bad, which is making the wheel on that side a little harder to turn. I wouldn't think the issue would be within the viscous coupling itself (that's a viscous LSD, right?).
edit: if it's a bearing, it's likely the one on the right side, as that's the side that experiences axial loading as the helical ring gear is 'pushed' over by the pinion gear as it spins.
It's not any harder to check the drivetrain than it is to check the suspension, though- both need the vehicle in the air.
One thing to remember is that sometimes inspections can find issues that aren't actually causing the complaint. A good example of me learning this the hard way:
I worked on a truck with a complaint of a roaring noise. Lifted it and spun the back wheels with it in park...both hubs felt rough, and rear hub bearings were common on this model. So I replaced both rear bearings (sealed bearing pressed into the hub).
Test drove it and...oh fudge, the noise is still there. Turned out the pinion bearing in the rear diff was toasty. Not a cheap mistake. It would've taken me less than a minute to put the trans in neutral and spin the driveshaft to check it.

OP, a basic suspension check would consist of grabbing the outside of each tire with the front end raised and trying to rock it back and forth. Side to side and up and down. If there's play from side to side, it's often a tie rod end. Up and down, usually a ball joint.
Because Honda doesn't locate the top of the front spindles with a strut assembly (using upper A-arms instead), you may need to have the car in the air with the suspension loaded (stands under the frame, floor jack under control arm of side being checked is typical method) to find a bad lower ball joint. This is because with the wheel hanging, the coil spring is pushing down on the lower control arm, which can hide play in ball joint (because the 'ball' part is being firmly pushed down in the 'socket').
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Yea went through everything pulled tranny tonight put the old open one back in and noise free.
Good and bad I guess time to tear her apart. Find the damage .
Good and bad I guess time to tear her apart. Find the damage .
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aleks77
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Aug 4, 2008 10:36 PM
hondapwr
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May 19, 2005 01:39 PM




