Sup guys,

So my niece purchased a used 94 teg automatic, and for the 1st two months it's been running fine. But now issues are popping up all over.

Initially, it had an issue starting. It had an aftermarket alarm and stereo, so we brought it to an A/V shop and they removed all of it and rewired the stereo properly.

Still happening, so we brought it in to a shop and they barely looked at it and sent us to AAMCO for the trans to be looked at.

AAMCO quoted $3k for a whole new trans. I asked what was wrong with it and he just said "the clutch" then I asked why they couldn't replace the clutch and it was like I completely got him off-guard.

Either way, the car still runs fine, until last night.

My niece called me up saying the car was smoking. It was 12:30am and was pitch black so I took her home and checked it out this morning.

I see a small pool of neon-green coolant sitting on the intake manifold.
I start it up and the "drive 4" light it blinking green on the cluster.

I drive it around the parking lot and it feels like it can barely go above 5-10mph. Dropping it in the lowest gear did feel better but you can tell there is an issue.

While at the 1st mechanic shop they pulled a carfax and the car, when it was originally in NY had 109,xxx miles on it, then it transfered to NC and the next entry was 57,xxx miles on it. The speedometer does show the 57,xxx number.

Is this POS worth fixing or calling back the seller and trying to take him to court or something?

Any help is very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Jon

 

One of the coolant hoses has most likely broken which is where the green liquid and "smoke" seen came from. Blinking green d4 and no power means ECU is in limp mode. As for the carfax report and the mileage difference on the car has most likely been wrecked and issued a salvage title.

mda

 

did you sign papers when you bought the car?? if she did read over it, cause she probably didnt

 

Thanks for the info.

After inspecting, the hose going from the head to behind the intake manifold had a big gash in it, I guess it only starts leaking when the thermostat is open?

I also got the ECU codes as follows:
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor

Is there one piece that could affect all these codes at the same time?
I'm a noob when it comes to cars but doesn't seem like all these sensors are bad at the same time?

Thanks for the help.

 

I don't remember her signing anything, it was a private sale.

He signed the title over is all I can remember.

Which paperwork should I be looking for?

Thanks

 

every state has a bill of sale form.

 

Got the hose swapped out and engine bay cleaned up. I have researched those codes and see that the 3 air ones usually come up together.

Can anyone give info on how to test these sensors and the MAP one too?

Thanks!

 

I believe the mech looked at you crazy cause i think you cant swap out a clutch on a auto trans, its usually the whole unit thats replaced but im not 100% certain, i do know if you shop around here or post a wtb ad here in the market place you can find a used trans with low miles fairly cheap and junk yards usually install used trans for about $600 dep. on the junk yard.

try and reset the ecu by disconecting the battery, if you have a oem sterio still it might shut the radio of temp and you will have to put the stereo code to get it on again. If they come back on then you might have to replace them. or if you have a scaner tool you can clear the codes so the limp mode goes away and see if it comes back on, then change the sensors as needed.

usually the iacv needs to be removed and cleaned,

 

Most likely all the codes were caused by the coolant leak/steam messing with the intake sensors. Just unhook the battery reset the ECU and then try starting it up and see if all is good.

MDA

 

I reset it but it's coming right back on... also after doing more reading of RonJ's threads I found the tranny is throwing these codes:
1
8
13
14

and ABS is blinking as well, although I didn't get the codes from it, too damn hot out.

So the car def. seems F'd up... It worked great for about the 1st month we got it, now everything is crapping out.

 

If it was me i would go talk to the guy that sold you the car and take your friends with you.
you know Smith and wesson. I'm sure if they talk to the guy he will give you back your money. if not ask him how fast he can dig a grave.

 

Unfortunately, your probably right.

Before purchase we brought it to 2 shops, the 1st one didn't do inspections but looked at the fluids and basic stuff and said it looked fine. 2nd shop found that the cv boot needed replacing, which isn't a big deal, and said everything else looked good.

I also rode shotgun with this guy going to these shops, the car drove fine the whole time. Not sure how all these issues can suddenly popup a month later but it does suck *****.

 

bump. thanks

 

ttt

 

From the service manual the error codes you indicate are as follows.

1 code - O2 sensor
8 code -Top dead center sensor
13 code - barometric pressure sensor
14 code - Idle air valve

These sensors could have been damaged when the coolant line broke.
Download the manual from web site below and follow the trouble shooting procedure to diagnose each code issue.

http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals

MDA

 

Very nice. Thanks for the link man.

It was actually throwing codes before that, I just didn't get a chance to see which codes they were before the line broke.

I will still check the sensors. Is there a way to test the sensors... kinda like you can with a main relay?
I have a GSR motor I can pull stuff off of to test with too, which I guess would be easier.

 

There is a lot of information on the board about cleaning the FITV. This thing played hell with the way my car ran until I just decided to clean and set it. Just search for FITV and I am sure you will find the write up. Only takes about an hour, and its free.

 

Hang on a sec...

You said the tranny was throwing these codes? As in you got them from the blinking D4 light with the service connector jumped? If so, these will be tranny fault codes, not engine fault codes.

1 code - Defective lock up control solenoid "A"
8 code - Defective lock up control solenoid "B"
13 code - barometric pressure sensor
14 code - Shorted or open wire between TCM terminal D16 & ECU, faulty ECU.

It is possible that the hose you changed, assuming it's the upper radiator hose, had been leaking for a while. It's situated above the connectors for these solenoids so the coolant could have fouled out the connectors. I'd disconnect them and see if there's any moisture in them, blow them out and apply some dielectric grease.

I doubt that the tranny is bad if it was running fine before. It's more likely that one of these solenoids is faulty. Like another poster said, the coolant may have caused your engine DTC's too. For a 94 RS though, a $3000 repair would not be worth it. I don't know what the laws are in your state but I would think you should have some recourse if the car was misrepresented during the sale.

Good luck.