What's up ht,
I am having some issues with my project car but I'll just bring one of the issues up for you to wrap your brains around lol. The car is a 93 integra with a gsr motor and short geared ys1 trans LSD. It just has bolt ons and at the Dyno this week it made a healthy 170whp and felt great.

I got a new ecu that was a chipped p06 from my tuner. It was starting up fine but the next day when i turn car to acc position the cel stays on solid and no relay click, no start, just cranking. I repeated this process numerous times and finally the cel clicked off and it starts up first try.

Now I wrote this off as a main relay, simple fix but NOPE. Brand new main relay and same issue. The ecu fuse isn't blown as I replaced that too. Can this be a faulty ecu? What is a good troubleshooting procedure to go about to address this.

 

I just cleaned the thermostat ground but no help. Still no relay click and cel stays on. I am leaning towards a bad ecu because
It was starting fine with my old ecu before it was tuned. The tuner supplied me with a different chipped ecu after my tune. Suggestions welcome..

 

I would try another ecu the next time it does it have it on hand just a suggestion...

 

Heading out to my tuner now to have this ecu bench tested, will keep posted!

 

ECU tested fine and working. Now I'm confused.... So recap:

Solid CEL with key in acc, no start. New main relay did not fix, cleaned thermostat housing ground. Checked ECU fuses and they checked out. What's next? this car is getting to be more trouble than what its worth....
Thanks

 

have you jumped the Diag connector?

is it still solid or do you get a code?

trace out all the wireing and look for cut and or shorts.

also what all has been done to the P06?
i ask cuz the P06 doesn't support the GSR motor with out alot of Mods to it.
from what i remember the P06 is Non vtec, has No knock sensor and No support for IAB's

also what Motor harness are you using?
and what year is the motor

I'm not sure but unless it was chipped correctly it will be looking for an ELD that your car doesn't have

 

The ECU/ECM has nothing to do with the first "click" of the PGM-FI Main Relay, it controls the 2nd click, the two clicks are very close together but either way you would hear the first click.

Testing needs to be done when failing...

First test is to confirm there is no click at all, access PGM-FI Main Relay, I would pull the lower panel and unbolt the PGM-FI Main Relay for easy access when failing.

Hold relay in hand and turn ign. switch on, can you hear/feel the click of the fuel injector relay turning on, [not controlled by the ECU/ECM]?

If not, test the black ground lead to the PGM-FI Main Relay for continuity to chassis ground, [should have full continuity to ground].

If ground is good test for power on the black/yellow lead when ign. switch is in both the run and start positions.

Let me know what you find, more test to fallow, depending on what you find. 94

 

Will do, I will keep posted on my main relay wiring findings today. Thanks

On a side note, I did notice my underhood fuse box has the wrong amp fuses... for example the 10A ECU fuse was replaced with a 30A fuse (was not visibly blown). The car was swapped before I purchased and I am paying for it going through all the weird wiring issues.

 

Funny I stumble across this. My 92 GSR did this **** to me yesterday after work. When it's very warm out the car struggles to start. In the cold it starts right up.

So I'm thinking main relay, even though the one in there is new (I replaced it in Feb. while troubleshooting other issues). I also tried the other one in my car and it didn't work either (I kept the old working unit in my glovebox just in case).

I let the main relay sit in my AC office for 5 minutes, went back out, and the car started.

So today I took my main relay out of my car and have it in my office. We'll see if it starts right up today. I haven't had an issue in 4 months.

 

 

The CEL goes out once fuel pressure is up, [PGM-FI Main Relay has "cycled/primed" the fuel system, if pump is not working system is not primed.

Did you try holding the main relay to see if you could feel it click when you turned on the ign.? 94

 

Yes the relay clicks in my hand with ignition on... I unbolted the
Fuel line from the fuel filter and cranked and no fuel is
Coming out.

 

I wonder if your pump went out?

 

Just one click?

The PGM-FI Main Relay will click three (3) times when you turn on the ign. switch..

The first click is the fuel injector relay turning on, [controlled by the ign. switch].

The second click is the fuel pump relay turning on, as mentioned it is very close to the first click and can easily be mistaken as part of the first click, [the fuel pump relay is controlled by the fuel injector relay and the ECU/ECM].

At the same time as the first two clicks of the PGM-FI Main Relay are happening the CEL will turn on and the fuel pump should prime, this obviously is not happening so let's try this...

Make yourself a jumper lead, [scrap piece of wire] strip insulation off each end, [1/2"]. With the PGM-FI Main Relay plugged in, stuff one end of jumper into back of plug, [wire end] that has the green/black lead, [ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead] turn ign. on with for first click from PGM-FI Main Relay, then ground the other end of the jumper, you should feel the "second" click, [fuel pump relay turning on], let me know what happens. 94

 

FCM, yes just one click when I turn on. When I jumped the green/black wire and it made a distinct click when I grounded it. The cel didn't go off. What's this mean and where to look next. Thanks much

 

Did the fuel pump turn on when you got the second click?

The second click, [click you hear/feel when you ground the green/white lead] is the fuel pump relay turning on, that would mean the ECU/ECM is not supplying the ground to turn on the fuel pump relay, if the fuel pump is not turning on when you ground the green/white would indicate the fuel pump is also bad, sounds like you have two problems.

Do the same thing, [turn on the ign. and ground the green/white lead, then check the two (2) yellow/black leads for power, both should have power, [12V+ or better].

If so, pull the back seat so you can access the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/black] and test for power there, [under rear seat].

If you have power there, the pump is most likely N/G, unfortunately on a G2 you will have to drop the gas tank to switch out the fuel pump.

The ECU/ECM may also be a problem if it is not supplying the ground to turn on the fuel pump.

Have you confirmed that there are three (3) power leads at the PGM-FI Main Relay

Yellow/white, 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] fuse 38-10A
Black/yellow, 12V+ switched, [hot when ign. switch is in run and start] fuse 12-15A
Blue/white, 12V+ switched, [hot when cranking to start only] fuse 18-7.5A

Confirm the above leads have power when they are supposed to.


You can also sometimes confirm the pump is a problem by turning on the ign. grounding the green/black lead, so there is power to the pump, then banging on the fuel tank to "jar" the fuel pump, sometimes the pump will turn on, if so, it confirms the pump is bad, [intermittent].

I drove my 94 with the rear seat removed and a mallet for a week, reaching around and banging on the top of the tank whenever the pump stopped working untill my Holly fuel pump showed up. 94

 

I will follow with these tests, I did confirm that the three leads at main relay have power when they are supposed to. I was borrowing a friend's multimeter but I'm going to buy one tonight and reconfirm these tests.

Also, on a side note. My girlfriend has a great condition stock automatic 90 RS integra, mine is a 93 RS 5 speed that has been swapped and molested. The underdash fuse panel diagram is different. Her fuse diagram is as follows:

http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...t=fuse+diagram

This is the same diagram that comes up whenever I search 90-93 integra dash fuse diagram. My diagram is different, I was under the impression that all 90-93 integras have the same dash fuse layout? Could I have a different panel in there from another car? I know a lot of the interior parts came from a junkyard. Maybe this is whats confusing me when it comes to fuse testing.

 

There are differences between the 90-91 and 92-93.

As long as you have the 3 powers at the PGM-FI Main Relay you should be good to go.

A multimeter is a handy tool to have but a 12V test light, [not LED type] is even handier, mainly because of the resistance of the light bulb, it supplies a "load" to the circuit your testing, a multimeter does not. 94

 

Just want to chime in....he has a '93 so his fuel pump wiring is on top of the fuel tank, not under the rear seat.

 

Hummm, my wiring diagram shows it running down the drivers side and under the rear seat and out, to on top of the tank, is there no connector under the seat or close by?

Wiring should be accessible under the "Fuel Maintanence Access Hole Cap Assembly", #29... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

I understand it is not like G3s that have an access panel under the rear seat to get to the fuel pump itself, he will need to drop the tank if the fuel pump is the problem. 94

 

Fcm is right, the pump wiring is accessable under the rear seats just like a g3. The difference is that the pump will only come out with tank dropped in a g2. I've been working crazy hours at work so haven't had time to do further testing, but this weekend i'm planning to finally solve this puZzle. It will suck if it is the pump but i'd be glad just to know what it is. Troubleshooting can be stressful but I thank you guys for walking me through the process!

 

Please post a link showing the location of the Fuel Pressure sensor on a 93 Integra.

i have only ever seen this sensor on Flex fuel cars 2008+

The CEL is on for 2 seconds while the ECU runs a Self Test and Has nothing to do with weather the fuel pressure is at 0PSI or 45PSI. the fuel running during the ECU self test was added as a Standard function of a ECU to shorten start up times on fuel injected car.
Most early EFI systems didn't do this and just ran the fuel pump when they detected crank Sensor or Cam sensor and some ran the pump all the time when the key was in the Run position

Do you Still have your old ECU???

If so turn car on and off 3 times with the current P06 ECU and see how meny times you get the Solid Cel

now put your old ECU back in the car and do the same.

if the cel is solid all three times with the P06 and it works correctly with the old ECU then your just wasting time with the Main relay and or fuel pump

I bring this up as your car should of had a P75 ecu (i'm also finding the P74 Listed for 92~95 LS/GS teg's) it could be that the P06 ECU you got was F'ed up when the Vtec was added as the P06 is for 92~95 Non-Vtec Civics with D15 Motors.

Now my car is running fine and is a 91 OBD0 boby with Jumper harness and OBDI p72 ECU.
just to test i unplugged my two Vtec connectors under the hood and turnd on the car i get a Solid CEL
when i jump the Diag connector it will blink the codes for the Vtec connectors.

i realy think you need to recheck the car with the correct ECU for the car befor you get further away from what you changed/modded befor the problem started.

 

I do not have my old ecu. This p06 was provided to me by my tuner. It was chipped and converted and I was dyno tuned last week. The car ran fine for two days with the exception of having to crank the car over twice sometimes before it would start, but it did this before my tune with my old ecu.

I brought the cars new ecu out to xenocron(my tuner) after it wouldn't start because I thought maybe it was the ecu. They bench tested and inspected the ecu and everything was functioning properly.

 

There is none, and you are technically correct about how it works, I could have worded it differently.

The point here is the "cycle" is...

Ign. on.
Fuel injector relay turns on.
Fuel pump relay turns on.
Fuel pump turns on, primes for 3sec. or less.
Fuel pump relay turns off, [once fuel pressure is up].
CEL goes out.

If the above is not happening something is wrong, I am just trying to keep it simple so anyone can understand.

The troubleshooting tests I have suggested will determine if the problem is in fact the ECU/ECM, the PGM-FI Main Relay, the fuel pump or wiring between the above.94

 

Mine does this right now with a chipped p28