I purchased a 97 F22b2 non-vtec swap for this car. The old motor locked up. I'm nearly done with the car but ended up no spark no start. Definitely getting gas. The motor has 160psi across the board. Good oil. No signs of wear in the motor.

As that said. I'm using all the old outside components

Intake manifold
Starter
Dizzy
Power steering pump
Same harness from the 98 chassis vtec( I know it's gonna throw code for vtec malfunction)

Also the 98 ex harness has two oil pressure sensors for th back of the block, im only using ne. Also, the coolant sensor are on the end of upper rad hose, the 97 motors are on the thermostat housing. I know I'll have to convert some things to work but I'm not worried bout that now unless it's affecting the no starting issue.

Everything is bolted up and went smooth. But the car doesn't wanna start. Sometimes it wold really wanna start but no, not a single time.

I got good ground, well at least I think. Everything is grounded up and ive Mde two extra grounds from chassis to transmission. And one for chassis to motor.

I'm getting weak spark from dizzy itself. It's not that bright white sparks color. More orange dark weak clear. So replaced the ignition coil today, still nothing.


I'm not too familiar with these accords. Not sure what parts are compatible and what isn't. Am I missing something h-t!!??

 

First make sure your distributor isnt 180 out. Check the ground from the block to the negative post on the battery. Should be under 5 ohms. Doubly make sure, you havent connected up something wrong, a few of the connectors can be swapped. And make sure all connectors are tight. If in doubt, get a good wiring diagram and match colors. You said your getting spark to the distributor, but none to the spark plugs?

make sure no oil is in the spark plus holes.

Just thinking out loud

Whens last time you replaced spark plug wires? Cap rotor?

 

What do you mean not 180 out. Goes in one way don't it? I don't have that big wire from neg, terminal to the block. I have it bolted to the chassis.

 

make sure spark is able to travel from the dizzy to the spark plug. since you have spark at dizzy make sure it is able to flow from there to the end of the spark plug. pull a plug, hook the wire to the plug and hold it against the chassis while you crank. try new plugs and wires if you don't see spark on the plug.

 

New information. When I crank it, it turns over three times then stops then it does that same pattern. Wants to start but no go. Sometimes after it does that it will then keep turning over without start. Never had this issue..

 

Some distributors can go in two ways. Anyway, what i meant was to check to make sure that you have a good ground to the block. The block grounds through the chassis, but to check it, you check continuity from teh negative post on the battery to the block. Should have <5ohms. That checks both the strap off the engine, and the one from the chassis to the battery. If you have over 5 ohms, then that could be a problem. MAKE sure you have a good ground, else nothing will work right.

 

Where exactly on the block does it ground? I have it on one of the starter bolts. Should be fine. I'm gonna test for 5ohms.

Spark is at no spark to weak spark. I don't get what else I coulda done wrong. The harness is frm 98 2.3Lex, would that affect groundage with using a 97 lx 2.2Lmotor?

 

Just test from the negative terminal to say an exhaust manifold bolt. If it is less than 5 ohms, then your engine ground should be good. You are using a harness from a different engine and year. Best bet is to get wiring diagrams from both, look everything over. Then youll know for sure.

 

you need to check for spark at the spark plug.

 

Ok so i know I'm getting weak spark. Weak spark from spark plug/wire. Also, when I remove cap from dizzy, had someone crank it and spark wasn't nice white bright. Bad ground issue...

 

It's more than 5 ohms at ground test to block bolts. I gave the multimeter power from positive terminal, then I checked ground it was over 10-11.80 or so.. What does it mean if it's more than 5 ohms?

 

means your ground isn't good enough. should be less than 1 ohm from engine to chassis/neg terminal

 

The green key in cluster is flashing during attempts to start. Only started doing that after swap, was never like that before old motor blew. Would that be ground issue or immobilizer unit faulty?

 

Repair the ground. DC current needs a path to the device, and back to battery. If the resistance is higher going back to battery then the device is getting less current passing through.

 

When I use my multimeter. I'll power it but using positive on battery then check for ground voltage. I'm getting 11.00 and over on all negative/chassis/grounds?

Am I doing something wrong here?

 

Or maybe I'm reading it wrong. I'm using dcv on multimeter at the 20. It's reading my grounds over 11.xx voltage. Is this correct?

 

I think you may have it on voltage. You need to put it on resistance. The omega sign.

 

Ok ground was issue and it did start. I got 5 codes. Vtec malfunction and 4 misfires in cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4. Firing order is correct. Probably needs a tune up.

 

I was gonna say ground but glad you've found it.