I'm a day or so from pulling the trigger on Coilovers for my 94 Si Hatch. Found some BWR Coilovers, for $590... Any insight is appreciated.. thx

 

Not another one of these.... Open your eyes,there is a sticky up top that would have answered your question without having to post this!!!

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/click-here-all-you-curious-about-suspension-setups-their-costs-reliability-2967499/

I wouldn't put BWR crap on my toilet seat!!! They are ebay junk!!! If you search, you will find cases where the coilover broke while driving.

Try these, they are in the same price range but I hear nothing but good things about them...http://progressauto.com/products/productID/671

I will be buying these next check.

 

Thanks, I,ll look into those Progressives, Would you know anything about Blox Racing Coilovers?

 

Read the sticky at the top, If you're too lazy then I suggest raceland or rokkor. I heard they're the best for under $400

 

I read that sticky, thanks for link, i'll search for threads next time before posting one, my bad.. thx for your help...

 

I wouldn't put a Blox air freshener on my worst enemies car!!

 

My god, ****ing marketing is the reason for most of these god damned threads, which company can make their **** tiawanese product seem the coolest.

CRAP: BWR, Blox, Skunk2, K-Sport, Function and Form, Megan Racing, Anything on ebay lacking a trusted brand name, Tein, Buddy Club, D2 Racing, ect...

GOOD: Progress, AMR, Function7, PCI, PIC, Koni/Ground Control, Hardrace, ASR, SPC, Wicked Tuning, Special Projects Motorsports, Kingpin Machine, ect...

If someone doesn't agree with me, I don't care because I gaurantee Johnny Ricer rocking skunk2 this and bwr that with a little blox this doesn't put any track abouse to his hard parked ride because if he did, he would be on the right side if the fence with the rest of us who know how shitty those companys are when you put any amount of abuse to their products.

 

Whats your price range?

Whats your goals?

That narrows it down alot than just saying "Best Bang For Your Buck"

 

He's going to slam the car. Get Function & Form and call it a day. They are adequate for what you need although I would put them on my car.

 

Well, i do plan on Slamming It!!!, to a point where the ride is still reasonable. And after reading the STICKY, and a few other threads i decided on PROGRESS STREET-SPORT COILOVERS.. Once again I'm a NUBE!!, somewhat, and i will SEARCH FIRST!!! thanks...

 

another mistake bro. progress is not made for slamming. if ur going to slam it then with your price range just get function and form haha. if u got the extra money get koni and gc

 

Bad decision, I hope you have not ordered them yet, you will be disappointed because you cannot slam your car with them.

Slamming your car reliably costs some money. Just look at my car as an example:

Since this is a tech forum and im using my car as an example, here is the tech:

My Setup:

Lowered 4.5"

GSR Blades on 195/50/15's rub on more than one full turn of the wheel.

-Koni/GC
-8in tall, 2.5 diameter, 550lbs/inch Front Springs
-8in tall, 2.5 diameter, 450lbs/inch Rear Springs
-Lowest perch on Koni's
-Shocks to full stiffness
-UCA about 1cm from touching the shock towers, hits on big bumps.

Oh yah and it rides really stiff.

I dont think you know what your in for yet.

Do some more research and get some more money if you want to slam reliably, if you dont, just buy some ebay suspension and call it a day, it'll still slam it

 

Fixed it for ya

For me: Progress CSII for my daily. If I had the money: KW Suspension

 

I'm ok with the 3 inch drop Progress offers. "To a point where the ride is still reasonable", i believe is what i said, Oh and i've been riding low since 94, it aint nuttin new bro.... Your ride is truly slammed tho...

 

Progress coilovers are NOT made to slam cars. if you want to slam it, just get Functionform type 1's.

 

fixed that for you, compare warranties and go ask kw to custom valve your shocks g/l with that.

 

I have track(road course) experience with d2 on my old s2000 after more than 15 days i can't say anything bad about them, only good. I also have experience with tein flexes so i dont care to hear about how cheap i am or don't know what im talking about. A friend of mine tracks his s2000 on ksports, after experience with tein, cusco, d2, and skunk on previous cars and he can't stop raving about them. Another track buddy of mine laps his 400hp Evo X on d2's loves em. and my brothers 350z is bombed on D2s and is incredibly happy with him and it's his daily.

 

Are these the bargain basement, entry level versions of their coilovers or the pricier setups? That would be relevant to mention instead of everyone just throwing names around.

 

this. and more power to them.

but really most people don't have/aren't willing to spend the $ nor will they even appreciate a quality suspension setup.

furthermore, whatever they get is going to be on a slammed car and torn to ****.. or a car which will be wrecked by a driver texting while performing some ricer maneuver.

 

 

Come talk to me in 4 or 5 years and let me know how they are holding up since all of the people you know have D2 setups and they frequently track their cars. I would be floored if they weren't shot. I've had koni yellows revalved for race rates 800F 1100R and after 5 years they have not had a single issue, and that is on a racecar, not remotely close to street legal that does at least 12 weekend events a year.

By the way, what kind of warranty do those D2's come with?

 

Pretty much, the only thing most people want to do is slam their cars. I was fortunate enough to drive a friends ITR at a track event with a Moton 3 way setup and it was by far the best handling honda I've ever driven. The response and feel was unbelieveable.

 

Good looking out Joe.

 

Rebuilding a monotube coilover in 4-5 years is actually pretty common, actually its pretty much known to rebuild most monotube coilovers in 3-4yrs. But your monotube will out perform a twintube.

As far as a twin tube design i.e. koni yellows they do last longer but they arent performance based by any means. They are more for someone who wants a better ride than OEM while still keep the ride smooth.

From KYB themselves:

A twin-tube shock or strut has two cylinders:

The inner, or working cylinder, is where the piston and shaft move up and down. The outer cylinder serves as a reservoir for the hydraulic fluid. There are fluid valves in the piston and in the stationary base valve. The base valve controls fluid flow between both cylinders and provides some of the damping force. The valves in the piston control most of the damping. The term Gas Shock usually refers to the same twin-tube design, but with one improvement. Low pressure Nitrogen gas is added to replace any oxygen air. The effect lessens aeration and performance fade.
The monotube design has a single cylinder:

The cylinder is divided into sections: A fluid area and a gas chamber. The piston and shaft move in the fluid portion. It uses a single fluid valve assembly in the piston. The diameter of the single working cylinder and piston valve is larger than in a twin tube even though the outside dimensions of each may the same. There is no need for an air or gas in the fluid area so the valve can operate more responsively and without any aeration or performance fade. The high pressure gas chamber is separated from the fluid area by a floating piston & seal. That provides an expansion area for the excess fluid movement during the compression stroke. On more aggressive movement the floating piston is pushed further into the gas chamber which increases gas pressure quickly and provides additional damping force. Because of its higher performance capabilities, the monotube design is used as original equipment on some vehicles and offered as an upgrade on vehicles that came equipped with the twin tube design.

 

So, aside from making an assumption and posting common knowledge information copied and pasted from a well know manufacturer, I see zero point or use in what you have posted.

Since when is it commonplace to rebuild monotube coilovers every 3 or 4 years? There are plenty if companies out there that produce coilovers that do not show signs of needing a rebuild for quite a bit longer than 3 or four years. Or is the 3 or 4 year rebuild bit just what ksport customers should come to expect?

Just off the top of my head I think Chad has had a set of PIC selects on his ex. H1 car for about the past 6 years with no issues. AMR hasn't hasn't had any problems that I know of. Koni/GC combos last longer than 4 years.