Hey all, I have a 1991 Civic Si, D16A6, no A/C.

It's hot. Seriously, this summer has been absolutely brutal. Without A/C, I show up everywhere I go sweaty as hell. I know of a junkyard in my town that has a 1990 CRX with a full A/C system in it, and I am so tempted to try to take that one out of the CRX and put it in my car. Before I go and make what could be a terrible mistake, I have a few questions for you experts.

First, is this even a good idea? Chances are this car has been sitting for a long time, the lines could quite possibly be dry, and there's really no guarantee it will work. However, assuming I could get the whole system for under $500, and a re-man compressor alone costs nearly that from NAPA, I think it may be worth it.

Secondly, what should I look for while taking the A/C from the CRX? Any warning signs that I should look for to make sure that it's not a complete piece of crap? Obviously cut or rotted lines are something to look for, but anything else?

Third, how simple/possible is it to add all the electrical components to a stock non-A/C ECU? Assuming I can get the A/C wiring harness off the car, what kind of work might I need to do to add it in? Fuses and relays?

Fourth, could anyone provide a list of essentials? I have the following on a list to grab:
Cooling Fan, Condenser w/ mounting hardware, Compressor w/ mounting bracket, idler pully, belt (I will replace, just might as well grab it), liquid tank and bracket, pretty much every pipe I can see, evaporator w/ insulator and case, switch for the dash, wiring harness w/ all the brackets.
What else is essential? I've been looking through the Honda diagrams from the E-Store to see what else I might need.

Fifth, if this is at all possible, what is a good price for the used junkyard system?

Finally, if this is all just a waste of time, where can I get a full A/C system, and for how much? Or should I just stay sweaty?

Sorry this is so long, I appreciate any help you can offer.

Thanks!

 

Bump for urgency, planning on going to the yard sometime tomorrow.

 

If the A/C is pressurized it would be a good sign.

Off the top of my head, the parts list as best as I remember:
Evaporator - radiator thing in front of the radiator. Disconnects from A/C lines on both ends.
Filter/dryer - under the driver side fender. Has a bracket you will want, but toss the actual filter/dryer and buy a new one.
Compressor and mount bracket. While it's off, check if you get a Sanden or Matsushita unit. It will be helpful to know which you get if you ever need to replace it.
Evap fan - while removing this, follow the harness and take it as well as everything it goes to. It will pick up the relay behind the passenger headlight and then the bulk of it will head off to running through the passenger side firewall. It makes connections to the compressor, fan, relay, engine compartment fuse box, a little connector on the under-dash harness close to the ECU, and the dash A/C button. Maybe a ground too, but I don't remember.

Found this pic so you can see it better


A/C dash switch.
The condenser box - black box under the dash. Nothing too special about this, just disconnect the A/C lines at the firewall and disconnect the dash control cables. open it up and clean it well when you get it home. Maybe replace the foam seals with Home Depot door seal stuff.
Firewall grommet might come off with it. Try not to destroy it... you need it.


There isn't an A/C ECU. All ECU's have the input from A/C (that little connector the A/C harness connects to by the ECU) and it bumps up the RPM a little at idle when running the system.

 

Thanks for the info! What do you think would be a fair price for this? And aside from opening up the lines and seeing if something pops out, is there a way to know if it's pressurized?

 

There are a couple of ports that look like large versions of stem valves found on your wheels. Cover it with a rag and push on them with a screw driver to see if anything would spray out. You don't want this shooting in your face or on your body. The dismantler may have depressurized the systems on all the cars when they get them.

Fair price? Maybe $300 tops if you think it has a shot of working. Then again, it's up to you. Some people throw the A/C out in the trash when they do swaps. Maybe have some luck looking in the for sale post (sticky at top) or in the classifieds?!?!?

 

Are there any special tools that I'll need to take it off the car aside from your standard stuff?

 

^Big *** adjustable wrench. Probably around 32mm. There are two low-pressure line connections that have huge nuts on them. One at the fire wall, and one front & center right above the radiator fan. I managed to get mine loose with large vice grips. But I wrapped the nuts in paper to keep them from getting all scratched up.

There are also going to be a few things you want to buy new. The following is assuming your going to be charging the system with R134a:
- Compressor oil (SuperCool PAG46 is great)
4oz for Sanden Compressor
5oz for Matsushita Compressor
- NEW Receiver Drier ($15 for Four Seasons brand)
- 3 cans of R134a (yes 3)
- O-ring set ($10 at Autozone)

For the compressor oil, you don't have to worry about flushing out the system entirely. Just drain each piece. The premium PAG oil is compatible with residual amounts of R12 Mineral Oil. Just take time to drain as much as you can so you get the proper total amount of oil in the system. You can add it all directly to the compressor. 4-5oz doesn't seem like much, but it gets the job done.

Also, don't buy cheap PAG oil you find at the autoparts store. This stuff is crap and reacts with water. You need premium PAG that says it's "Double End Capped". SuperCool is one brand, and there are a few others too (CoolPro, Master Chem, Pro-Cap, Sanden SP-10). SuperCool is only $7 for 8oz w/ dye from Grainger.com.

 

Looks like I'll be going through the classifieds, called the yard this morning and asked how much it would run me, they said they "didn't want to get involved with it." Whatever that means. Still, thanks guys, I'm sure this information will be useful as I try to install my A/C.

 

^ LOL!

Is buying an A/C system code word for joining the mafia?
That's funny stuff!

 

I know, all I could do was laugh. Seriously, what else are they going to do with the A/C in that car?

 

First I have been working with AC on these cars for awhile

In many cases Most junkyards will give you a warranty on your compressor for a few extra bucks

Dont count on it havin pressure because most of the time they are drained on purpose before setting them out on the yard

I just bought a compressor from a junkyard. Things to look for, Is the car wrecked, If so this is a good sign, chances are the car had life before sent to the scrap yard. Does it still have a belt on it. In many cases if it dont have a belt it was taken off for a reason. Has it been retrofitted, If so this is a good sign it was reconditioned and probably in good working order.

Most of the time all your lines will be fine, check the metal for kinks otherwise should not have a problem, You wont need the dryer because you might as well buy a new one they can be had for cheap. Also replace all the O rings while you have all the lines out.


As far as Price I purchase an entire system from my local yard for about 80 bucks. Everything from the wires to the brackets that hold the lines. I did not purchase the warranty on my first compressor and it died two weeks later. So def ask about a 30 day warranty. Stay away from Reman Compressors and EBay compressors. Make sure its an OEM Unit. Always check your compressor to make sure its not locked up before you buy it. And also check to make sure it has oil in it.