codes 22 and code 9
vtec pressure switch and cyp sensor.

new parts, new dizzy new fuel filter new plugs new wires new tps thats been checked and working correctly i do know there is only 1 o2 sensor plugged up and one wire lingering close by yellow in color, ideas? i'm no newbie, but this is mind boggling.

pr3 ecu.

how can it throw code 9 even after new dizzy???

 

Also new iacv, and the problem is typically only when warm

 

Bump for any ideas? I see in the rats nest there's a shielded wire that's been spliced and the grounding of the shield is run to a brown wire? And most of it seems incorrect but it still runs and drives hard. And just sputters at constant speeds under 4k rpms

 

did you just install the motor? Did you go over the motor before you set it in? Has the car been sitting for a while?

 

I just traded for it looks as if the swap has been done for awhile. And had the sputtering issue since the trade. It hasn't sat a day and only had Mobil + gas run I it for the 4 tanks since the trade also has the jdm sir cluster don't know I'd that wiring would have an effect.

 

What kind of car is it ?

 

89 dx sedan

 

had a similar sputtering problem turned out to be a bad fuel pressure regulator. also had some random codes due to bad/loose connections in the conversion harness, i used a multimeter to check the connections and soldered the wires to the corresponding pins.

 

Awesome. I'll check into that! Low oil caused the code 22, and now just the 9 with a brand new dizzy that didn't mess up for 2 weeks an all the sudden just dumped on me.

 

I've read many different threads and with the pr3 am I lookin for b10 b12 or c1 and c2?

 

What are you looking to check? Let us know what you are trying to check and we can help you.

 

find out which wires run to the ecu from the cps and test it with a multimeter for continuity that will get you started with the code 9
a new dizzy would indicate a new cps so the fault is more likely in the wiring to ecu.
unless youre really unlucky haha

 

How can it throw code 9 after new dizzy good question. I would definitely check
The wiring. From the ECM to the dizzy. Get a wiring diagram, set it on ohms, and trace
the wire that applies to the cyp circuit. It'l definitely misfire if that dtc is valid. Did you try
That ?

 

i've done everything but trace the wires which i'll be doing bright and early... i have a new ecu and a new distributor now. so once i install those and check the wiring i should be a okay, my ohm reading should be there about 300 ohms correct???

 

If you have an open. You will have infinite resistance (1 on Dvm usually.)
this means that the wire is not making proper contact somewhere in the
Circuit.


A high resistance will indicate a short to ground somewhere in that circuit.
Take ohms law into account, it takes 1 amp of current to flow through 1k ohm.
For example, Anything up higher in resistance, won't have proper current flow delivery.

 

alright alright cool, so i just want it to read the one so that the circuit is reading that it has good continuity?!?!

 

auto range meter used, got a reading of 9.50, then drops to 0.0 after a few seconds.

 

Do you have continuity between the dizzy and Ecu Cpy points ?

 

how exactly do i check that? i'm good with voltage and amperage, but continuity is just not grasping correctly in my head right now!

 

so it checked out that it is the ecu, bad part i wont have an ecu until monday. **** the bed.

 

the dizzy is fine, and i'm getting approx. 35.56 ohms of resistance at pins c1 and c2? its an auto range meter any insight?

 

after checking the resistance to the ecu, i realized i had a short somewhere open loop so i rewired and its still showing the light. new ecu tomorrow and i pray pray pray that it works. my dd cant be down like this.

 

new ecu new distributor and i rewired the cylinder sensor straight to c1 and c2 and cut out any middle man work and i'm still getting a code 9. how is this possible! HELP HELP HELP!

 

i just noticed, the shielded wire from the crank sensor in the dizzy has been spliced and part of the ground strap is clipped onto a brown wire, maybe with red stripe, could this be shorting out causing a false reading on code 9 instead of a code 4????

 

bump cause i need help!

thoughts on just converting to obd1?!?!?!