H-T members,

I am getting ready to install a Greddy Turbo kit on my AP1 and I wanted to ask the community what problems or concerns I might need to know about this kit prior to doing the install.

Traditionally I would go with a Full_Race style kit over the Greddy kit because of power output & quality but since I live in California and the Greddy kit is the only CARB legal kit I decide to go with this for my daily driver.

Please feel free to include pictures & comments

 

Before you even install the kit, I suggest you ditch the greddy manifold and get the upgraded piece from Pfab. You will save yourself a lot of headaches in the long run.

The greddy manifolds tend to crack and I have seen it on virtually every single kit I've encountered. Besides that, the install is pretty simple and straight forward. Make sure you tap the girdle instead of the lower portion of the oil pan.

 

Thanks for the info! I've been looking into the Pfab stuff and its good to hear someone recommend them.

As for the fuel management I'm thinking about going really basic... as in using a Blox FMU & Blox MAP bypass. I'm not looking for anything to crazy, just want something I can safely daily drive without having to deal with the BS that come along with some of the piggy back ECU's.

Any thoughts of suggestions when it comes to that?

 

Using a FMU is like a band aid. Its not going basic its going cheap. Your motor will last a month or two. Piggy backs are a step above FMUs and the still SUCK. Get a Stand alone like Kpro or AEM EMS 1052 or else you will be spending A LOT more money and going though a lot more BS. You should look into stand alones and learn more about tuning and how a engine works or else the next thread you make will be a part out thread or a new engine setup.



One of the more powerful stand alones is the AEM EMS. It has WAY more then what you need. The one downside is no check engine lights and if they plug you car in for smog testing the obd2 scanner wont read anything.


In my eyes this is the best for a daily driver and/or track car. You can pass smog testing and it has check engine lights.


Tricks your ECU into giving your engine more fuel and junk. sucks.


This will turn any FI set up into a really expensive time bomb. The best part about it is you KNOW it will go but you never know how soon.


Works just like a FMU but looks cooler when its blowing up.

 

<--------- likes this ^

 

Thank you for all the detailed info.

The main reason I asked about the FMU wasn't more on being cheap but more on looking for the simplest solution to run the car at 6-7psi on a super conservative, pump gas and CARB legal set-up.
I'm familiar with the stand alone system but I already know all stand alone systems I know they have their own separate issues.

What size injectors do you recommend?

 

Well its who tunes it. Go with Kpro or AEM. ID1000 for injectors. Youll never need to buy injectors again.

 

ive been preaching this for years...always get more injector than you need...you can always tune around it and if you decide you want more boost or upgrade something that requires more fuel, youre not running into maxing out injector

 

Thank you for the injector advise!

Has anyone here on the board ran an AP1 with a AEM FIC?

 

You must really want to buy a new motor. What you are looking at are short cuts and cars run like junk on them. Its on the same level as the greddy e manage. Buy Kpro and call it a day. If you dont buy a stand alone you will be replacing your motor a lot sooner then you think. I know All those are junk because Ive used a few and dealt with a few. Your S2000 will drive kinda shitty while on them. Then you get a stand alone and its like a whole new car. If you dont buy a stand alone just dont do any sort of FI.

 

Kyle knows his ****

 

If it's your daily driver and you plan to smog it LEGALLY, And you only want 6-7PSI (factory spec rating on the Greddy kit), then just stick with the Emanage Ultimate that comes with the kit!!! There are many reasons why:

1. You will save the $$$$ you would have spent on a stand alone (the kit COMES with the Ultimate!)

2. The ultimate is PLENTY good for daily driving and 6-7PSI. If you were going to change out to a larger turbo, get larger injectors, go for 350+ HP, 12+ PSI then yes I would say get a standalone. But since it doesn’t seem like you’re doing that, a stand alone is overkill and a waste of money. It’s all in the tune. The ultimate has been used on tons of high power vehicles and applications, it’s just complicated to tune piggybacking off of stock signals versus creating from scratch on a standalone, so not many people like to tune a piggyback. So again, it’s perfectly capable of running 6-7 PSI reliably. It can run 10PSI reliably on an F20/F22.

3. You will ONLY be able to smog legally with the Emanage Ultimate. That means if you don’t use the EU, come smog time, you will have to swap out whatever it is you are using and install the Ultimate. If you want to do that, up to you. You will have to change your injectors, manifold, everything else you changed on the kit. You might get away with a PFAB manifold with a regular tech, but a state ref would notice it and fail you. Upgraded injectors would also need to be changed come time to switch back to the ultimate and smog. In other words, it’s a giant waste of time (and money if you don’t want to DIY). You will also need the Ultimate tuned optimally to your vehicle, so might as well tune the ultimate ONCE and be done with it.

Now if you don’t care about all of this and plan to smog illegally or don’t care about Refs or don’t care about swapping parts every 2 years to smog, then go for whatever setup you want! Go nuts!!

 

just upgrade your fuel/ignition and as another user said change your manifold from the start and you shouldnt have too many issues.keep in mind its a honda so set boost respectively

 

there is no other emanagement like AEM

 

You dont need to upgrade the ignition. This is a S2000 not a Civic. Changing the fuel components can make it run funky until he has the turbo on. Setting a car up for boost is a lot more then most people think.

 

I am the only one that sees running a greddy kit @ 6psi as next to useless?

 

You're not alone here.

 

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/6479...bo-kit-thread/

everything you could possibly need to know is contained in here

 

hahaha 60-70whp increase over stock @ 6 psi useless? i must have missed the memo that stated those are puny increases. Not to mention torque bumps up to around 180-190 lb ft which is the really noticeable part of the kit.

 

Those numbers sound cool but it wont be cool when you arnt making power because you took a short cut. You can make power with just a turbo and no tune.

 

im sorry, but im not going to spend over 5 grand just to run 6 psi and make 70 hp over stock...doesnt sound very smart

 

When tapping the girdle, be very careful or have someone with S2000 girdle tapping experience do it. If youre not careful, the block could be ruined.

 

i don't understand this..

And no one is telling you to, but first off, the kit is easily 4k used. second, at full retail price or new street price, i agree, it's not a great deal. HOWEVER, for some people, especially those in California, it's a great deal because it's street legal! Sure you could get any other kit and swap it out come time for smog every 2 years or pay someone off to pass you, but in the long run you will save money and time with the street legal greddy kit. NO OTHER TURBO KIT IS CARB LEGAL FOR THE S2000.

Lastly, spend a couple hundred on a boost controller and turn it up to 10psi for over 300whp and over 225tq.

anyhow, any form of FI is a better bang for the buck than N/A tuning, especially on an s2000 when a n/a setup of intake/header/exhaust/engine management/tune can easily cost over $5K for what...20whp?

When it comes to FI for the s2000, there are plenty of kits out there and the greddy kit is priced accordingly. It probably makes the least WHP out of any kit for the s2k, however it's one of the cheapest as well. When you compare w/ all the other kits, make sure you add in cost of engine management and tuning which usually aren't included in other "kits". Also, the priceless CARB sticker that is included w/ the Greddy kits that is a huge savior when your hood gets popped in CA.

Anyway, the OP wants a CARB legal kit because he lives in wonderful CA. And as he and I stated this is the only kit to make his CARB legal turbo s2000 dreams possible. There are supercharger options that are carb legal (vortech/comptech) which i personally really like as well, however if he's decided on turbo over S/C then i don't see how there is any other option for the OP. This....is.....it....

 

this is great advice, however tapping the girdle isn't necessary. running it through the drain bolt (yes...below the oil line) is fine. Oil is constantly cycling through the engine, so there is no chance for a blockage of the oil return line. This is how the oil return line on the SOS S/C kit for the s2000 is done as well. (Well known NSX specialists for those that don't know).

 

this is what I do