Wuttup....just curious on what oil yaw fellas using for a daily driven built, boosted Hondas....wt and any particular brands or what....thanks

gabe

 

theres a huge thread about this in this forum...

 

This is just one example thread about oil weights.

Link

For anyone to really answer your question some details about your build would be helpful. Just because I use a specific weight doesn't mean that's the best option for your engine.

I have a fully built GSR, top to bottom, with loose tolerances. I use Brad Penn 10w-40 primarily but I'll rotate Shell Rotella T1 10w-40 every so often when I can't get a case of Brad.

And I use both based upon my tuners recommendations.

 

what up texas folk!
my tuner suggest using 20-40w in the summer and 10-40w in the winter.

 

Well I apologize for not finding the thread on this but I did search. Not all night and day but I did. Guess I "searched" for the wrong key words or SOMEthin.....I apprecieate the positive responses.....

I have a jg pro built head (gsr) and golden eagle sleeved bottom end with a 60-1 garrett turbo....last dyno tune on 16lbs made 375whp. I got me a new clutch and wastegate springs to turn up boost to bout 20lbs. C how she does....just tryin to break the 400whp mark

 

"Texas folk" hahahahahaha wuutuup brotha?!?!?!? Lol

 

I tried to search for it as i was replying. theres something wrong with the search bar at the top of the forum... you have to go to advanced search to find any relevant results.

most people run 10w30 year round as its a nice medium as far as oil goes... Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil1 and Rotella are all oils I would recommend.

as far as an oil filter, STAY AWAY from fram... cheap all cardboard internal construction and a sure fire way to destroy a motor prematurely.. Stick with the purolator PureOne Gold oil filter. Has the most filtration media of any filter and filters smaller particles. also the end caps, mounting sruface and the anti-siphon/drainback valve are all metal.. there isnt a single piece of non metal in the entire structure of the filter other than the filter media itself. It has been voted, tested and proven to be the best filter on the market today

 

20-50 brad penn

 

Really depends on clearences. Not a mobile1 fan at all. its like water and zinc content has gone way down. Rotella T5 is what i generally run. its a semi synthetic 10w30 with higher zinc content then most shelf oils. Brad Penn would be top choice.

 

Mobil 1 5w30 or any good full synthetic oil.

 

Not sure what yaw mean by "clearances" ? I've been using rotella but just lookin to see what everyone else is using. I been out of the game for a while but definitely not out of messin wit my teggy just havent spoken to any peeps lately. Corpus import scene kinda SUX so I don't go out ridIn much.

 

"brad penn" can be purchased where? I haven't heard of that. My bad. And I been using a stock Honda oil filter.....good? Seems too small. Was thinkn of tryin the royal purple 1.

 

I've never had an issue with mobil1 and k series motors. I also ran mobil1 in my mercedes. I use Rotella T5 in my one ton because of the zinc, it quieted down the motor a good bit... dodge hydraulic lifters are loud at idle.

I normally use Amsoil 20w50 severe duty turbo oil in my sr20.... but I beat the crap out of it and the Amsoil is made for the high heat environment a turbo creates

 

Is your engine built to spec or are the PTW, ring gap and bearing clearances spec for a turbo build?

 

To be honest, this cardboard debate is really just advertising & PR at its best. When you design an oil filter, you are dealing with temperature and pressure. When the oil flows in, it takes the path of least resistance. The paper filter element offers the least resistance. The cardboard has much more resistance, so it is perfectly sufficient as an end cap. Regardless, it is backed up by the metal of the filter barrel.

 

yea, I just feel more comfortable as under the right conditions the cardboard can and has broken up. I know a couple people with frams that have had carboard block oiling holes to the crank and rods

 

Ummm well, bottom end is golden eagle sleeved with super tech 9:0:1 comp assembled by Huy tran at Inline Racing out of Houston. Didn't get any details on "specs" tho.

 

15/40 royal purple. Dont run the RP oil filter will drop oil pressure dramaticly. Seen it in a fellow members h22 changed to k&n pressure went back to normal.

 

valvoline vr1 20-50

 

amsoil, valvoline VR-1, Brad Penn, Rotella and many others are good oil for your build (Mobile 1, Pennsoil, Quaker State, and those off brands stay away from), for the power you are making and planning to make i would run ATLEAST a 40wt oil, but i would recommend a 50wt oil, thin oils work for lower hp cars and set ups but with the added pressure and stress on the engine the thicker oil will help protect.

I myself am from Texas aswell and every car i put together runs 20w-50 in the summer and wintertime and never had a problem with it at all.

 

rotella t6 5-40

 

Kewl kewl...I appreciate the responses.....imma stop by advance or autozone n lil while and look for this brad penn yaw speak of lol

 

As far as filter, I'm using a Honda filter.......good?

 

yes, honda filter good

 

nobody running motul?!!