1990 Hatch build
Hello everyone my name is lukas, just picked up my first honda. Got it for a trade for a 94 celica that I had. Going to be restoring it so i have a reliable daily while i build my track car.


Car did not have a rear hardline soo had to change that, and ended up snapping the bleeder valves on the drumbs so had to change that

Also did the front lines and now the car stops!
lugs were rusted on

not the only thing thats rusty

What the motor bay will never have

washing my 2 babys

And now my current issue The timing belt makes its way off the cam gear every time i stop i tap it back on, anyone know wear i should start looking? New motor maybe? or could it be a simple fix

The previous owner said it has a newly rebuilt motor so im thinking maybe it was put on wrong? Any ideas?


Car did not have a rear hardline soo had to change that, and ended up snapping the bleeder valves on the drumbs so had to change that

Also did the front lines and now the car stops!
lugs were rusted on


not the only thing thats rusty

What the motor bay will never have

washing my 2 babys

And now my current issue The timing belt makes its way off the cam gear every time i stop i tap it back on, anyone know wear i should start looking? New motor maybe? or could it be a simple fix

The previous owner said it has a newly rebuilt motor so im thinking maybe it was put on wrong? Any ideas?
Sounds like something isn't lined up. check and make sure the two "washers" are on the crankshaft. one is on the inside and one is on the outside of the timing gear on the crankshaft. also make sure they bow away from the belt the will look like this )gear(
The problem with the belt is def. the washer in between the crank gear. One before the gear and one outside before the cover. Good luck with the Resto. So is the turbo going in? lol thinking you had a typo at "Never"
alright i will take a look at it once im back in town, If they are not there wear can i get the washers? just a parts store or honda? and yup thats that turbo is never going in it, thats going in my miata lol
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Started removing my timing belt today, But i am stuck, put the car in gear to remove the crank pully and all it does is spin, i looked it up and the how to's say i need a tool is this true?
rust fix my specialty for quick fix cut out any loose rust then pop rivet a patch on before that por 15 or another rust encapsulating paint on any surface that is slightly rusted or new metal. you could also glass it like i did but ill be redoing mine as it looks like hell.
if you do glass as a quick fix spray foam will give a good base to hold the glass to just sand it down smooth and glass over. if its more permant use a foam without water in its reaction.
for long fix and the right fix cut and weld por 15 everything inside the rocker and make sure you cut all the rust out you can. a tip on sheetmetal small spot welds spaced far apart and it wont warp.
if you do glass as a quick fix spray foam will give a good base to hold the glass to just sand it down smooth and glass over. if its more permant use a foam without water in its reaction.
for long fix and the right fix cut and weld por 15 everything inside the rocker and make sure you cut all the rust out you can. a tip on sheetmetal small spot welds spaced far apart and it wont warp.
You dont need the tool, it definately makes it eaiser, but dont need it. what do you mean spinning??? The whole crank pulley and bolt is spinning, or just the bolt?
The bolt on the outside of the pully would just spin i had it in gear and would still spin, did it agian today but had a friend hold the brake peddle and it came right off, i will be removing the rest of it after work today, do i need to set it to TDC? i thought i will just mark the timing belt to the gear in a bunch of places slip the belt off check the washers and slip it back on thoughts?
Well a little update
I though the car is going to be down for a whole so i thougt oo i know i will do a wire tuck sooo started that

driver side

passenger side

driver side fender

removed the battery

started it

pulled the dash this morning

rust mmmm

Then my friend came and we figured out how to get the crank pully bolt lose
hmmm i wonder wear the timing belt was rubbing


SO AM I MISSING A PART? NOT SURE HELLPPPP
I though the car is going to be down for a whole so i thougt oo i know i will do a wire tuck sooo started that

driver side

passenger side

driver side fender

removed the battery

started it

pulled the dash this morning

rust mmmm

Then my friend came and we figured out how to get the crank pully bolt lose
hmmm i wonder wear the timing belt was rubbing


SO AM I MISSING A PART? NOT SURE HELLPPPP
The thing you are grabbing with your left index finger. You're missing one of those. Retains the timing belt. That's probably why it was rubbing.
The bolt on the outside of the pully would just spin i had it in gear and would still spin, did it agian today but had a friend hold the brake peddle and it came right off, i will be removing the rest of it after work today, do i need to set it to TDC? i thought i will just mark the timing belt to the gear in a bunch of places slip the belt off check the washers and slip it back on thoughts?
Loosen the tensioner.
Slide the belt off the cam pulley.
Put the crank at 90° from TDC.
Align the marks on the cam pulley face with marks on the cover behind the pulley.
Put the crank at TDC.
Slide belt back onto the cam pulley, making sure it doesn't rotate and the belt is tight on front side of the engine.
Rotate the crank counter-clockwise about 15° (or when you start feeling tension from compression).
Tighten tensioner pulley.
Rotate the engine through a couple revolutions to make sure there is no interference.
Note: As the cylinders produce pressure through their compression strokes, the crank will be difficult to turn...but it should still turn. If it feels like will not turn, do not force it, and recheck that you have it correctly in time.
Slide the belt off the cam pulley.
Put the crank at 90° from TDC.
Align the marks on the cam pulley face with marks on the cover behind the pulley.
Put the crank at TDC.
Slide belt back onto the cam pulley, making sure it doesn't rotate and the belt is tight on front side of the engine.
Rotate the crank counter-clockwise about 15° (or when you start feeling tension from compression).
Tighten tensioner pulley.
Rotate the engine through a couple revolutions to make sure there is no interference.
Note: As the cylinders produce pressure through their compression strokes, the crank will be difficult to turn...but it should still turn. If it feels like will not turn, do not force it, and recheck that you have it correctly in time.
nice project to build these cars are perfect dailys if built to stock! take your time. replace all you can with oem honda parts n ur car will b flauless! good luck








