I want to do a new build!!! Long story short, so I spun a rod blah blah rod knock, turned car off immediately tore it apart the next day found out cyl.1 rod and main bearing passed on, now going to have crank shaft resurfaced, micropolished and balanced this weekend, the BLOCK is unharmed perfect cylinder walls no chips or warps going to hot tank it too might as well.

But i am really curious on my 18g turbo setup i want to rebuild it but i cant seem to find a rebuild kit for it, and i dont really trust ebay for it.

anyways i want to get more horsepower out of it then im getting right now without making a hole in my wallet at leased for now!! i never dyno' the car because i had no first gear(bent shifter pins) but i would hit 14 flat on a quartermile from a 2nd gear pull so im assuming im getting around 190+ lucky 200s out of it from stock dp and internals

My parts list consist of:
Stock b18c1 97 obd2a gsr
skunk2 intake manifold w/ b&m fuel rail(i think?)
walbro 255 fuel pump
act stage 2 6 puck clutch
stillen fuel pressure regulator
greddy 18g setup w/cast manifold and weak downpipe running on 7lb of boost
tuned on chrome for 10lbs burning RICH..
turbo timed (in my brain for 50 sec each time before i turn car off even when im late for work lol)
2.5 straight pipe all the way back to a no name exhaust
Type R flywheel
ITR lsd tranny
msd spark plug wires and external coil.
--
my new rebuild will consist of:
Stock top end.
Resurfaced crankshaft/flywheel
Eagle rods with rod bearings
ACL main rod bearings
ARP head studs
9.1 or 9.5 CP forged pistons
*maybe block gaurd
different fuel rail, maybe BDL, AEM or Skunk 2.
and finally get it tuned on chrome gold. or hondata s200/s300
oh and getting my tranny fixed!!
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Im new into the boost world and seeing what my motor can handle since its going to be pretty much zero miles minus the head, i really need the help in pointing me into the right direction 18g owners!!, im not looking into anything crazy like going 400+ i just want something i can daily drive and sometimes hit the track or do some runs!! im on a tight budget right now so i cant go t3/t4 57 trim lol

 

you dont want to use that crank. honda crank journals dont like to be machined. just find another one. Plenty out there. There is no such thing as more HP without putting a hurtin on your wallet sorry to say LOL. As for the turbo if its not burning or leaking oil there is not reason to rebuild it. otherwise send it into gpopshop.com They rebuild turbos and are a reputable company

 

whats the difference between type r crank and gsr? and i can hurt the wallet a lil lol just not so much to put a hole in it, like getting a new actuator wastegate nd such, tune and all that. it used to have shaft play, and now it doesnt and the fan doesnt spin freely but it still spins with a bit of force, it doesnt spin like a fan idk if its like that or what. i know people had squeezed alot of power out of these turbo setups i just want to know what parts i need!! lol

 

Its probably weighs a little bit less otherwise just about the same crankshaft. if you need a replacement just run a GSR crank their cheaper to find or stroke it with an LS crank and rods

 

the counterweights are a little heavier in the Type R than the GS-R, but for boost it will not matter at. It all depends upon what you're trying to do. If doing forged internals, an LS crank and aftermarket LS sized rods will fit (you'd have to remove the oil squirters for it to work).

As for the 18G. You'll spend more money rebuilding and getting the turbo to make more power than if you just did another manifold and turbocharger entirely. The GReddy 18G is a Mitsubishi/Garrett hybrid turbocharger in which it uses Mitsubishi parts to rebuild.. No ebay kit or anything like it would work, and you'd spend over 400-500 buck just to do it. You would then have to purchase another wastegate actuator because it can only go to about 12psi anyway. It will not not make 350whp without a new actuator, customer downpipe (while eliminating the turbine housing-to-downpipe adapter) then to go to the exhaust (another $500-600)..

If you're on a budget, this is not the way to do this. I understand you don't want to buy another turbocharger, but unless you're willing to do the changes I suggested, I'd forget it, and go a more "traditional" route.

 

what would be the cheapest route to go? i was already planning to go 57. trim on a t3/t4 but the setup kit alone cost around $3k not including new motor mounts, clutch and getting crank and block resurfaced/hot tanked.
i just want a small upgrade with the 18g and then save up for something bigger, because the car is not running right now and need it up and running at the sametime upgrading because everything is in parts so might as well do it right?

would the forged internals and 9.1/ 9.5 pistons make any power difference? im trying to go at leased 10 pounds on the setup how would i make that possible?
3 bar map?
new acuator/wastegate?
custom downpipe? what flanges do i need for the elbow?

and if i do get my license suspended for a year then im most def. might as well go ITR kswap if im going to save up for that long lol.
thanks for the replies

 

 

one of the many reasons why IF i ever live in cali, my cars will be tagged out of state

 

heard the turbo was limited to 14 psi?

 

theres people making around 300+ with that turbo setup lol but i understand...

 

No. You do NOT understand. the WASTEGATE ACTUATOR is limited to about 12psi with a 14psi spike that will not hold.. I'll say this for the last time, PLEASE LOOK AT MY COMMENTS FOR WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE TO MAKE 300whp+ on a GReddy 18G.

I think you're at a point where you need to go back to the FAQs (Stickied in grey at the top of the forum here) and understand how turbocharging works. Please don't say that you do, because its clear it is not the case, otherwise you would not be asking these redundant questions. Please read CAREFULLY about this turbocharger, and not what you heard, glanced at or skimmed.

 

lets make it simple...
300whp on an 18g
New wastegate actuator, also port the wastegate falpper hole for more stable boost control.
Complete 3" downpipe from turbo, eliminate stock greddy elbow. flanges can be obtained from ATP. its a standard 5 bolt t25/28 turbine flange IIRC
3" exhaust

300whp is really about the limit of the turbo... it was designed for a mild 250ish whp turbo kit that had response...

 

I know i dont know much about turbo chargers i already said that previous post.
i did read your comments and i do understand them about the new actuator where can i pick one up? i do have a 3" downpipe but it connects just at the bottom of the elbow, should i just get a t25 flange and weld a pipe straight to the exhaust? so it eliminates the elbow.

or different route, what if i get a t3 ramhorn manifold and get a t25 to t3 adapter flange so i can run external 38mm waste gate and weld the internal gate shut.
would that increase my chances to go above 10lbs on this setup? would it even work right? i appreciate your comments shodan but like i said im new to this boosting thing and im here to learn. sorry bout any misunderstanding.

 

you have to eliminate the greddy elbow... its a major restriction that causes a lot of the boost spikes due to how much it chokes exhaust flow
theres a thread about it, i'll see if i can dig it up

Getting a t3 ram horn and slapping the 18g on it is pointless, its not the manifold thats the problem... Then you'd have to weld the internal flapper shut, which means youd never really be able to resell the turbo unless you found another turbine housing (good luck) and you still wont make 300hp because of the downpipe exhaust restriction

 

Spoolinperformance and Kteller make 3" downpipes for the B greddy kit but they still use the greddy elbow, which doesnt do a lot.
most people have to ditch ac since you can't make a tight enough 3" radius to clear ac unless you undercut and pie cut the **** out of it.

youd have to do something like this


heres a guy that went ramhorn/external wastegate but IMO its too much effort for not a lot of gain... but its your money
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/greddy-18g-2411921/

 

The iron adapter elbow is typically ported so that it is less restrictive. So a/c can be used and 300whp can be obtained.

 

i think stock the outlet diameter is 2.70" I dont think you can get much more than that out of it

 

is it possible to run ramhorn manifold using the t24 to t3 flange and direct bolt it on between the manifold and the turbine housing?

what flange would i need for the exhaust outlet so i can eliminate the elbow???

if i do go this route on the 38mm external wastegate, do i connect the vacume line from the bottom of the turbo outlet to the extrnl waste gate just how it was connected to the actuator? and run a dumptube somewhere i figured this will also add more room for the turbine for the 3" downpipe aswell

 

still wont be able to run ac... unless you get an ac friendly manifold.... and having an external wastegate doesnt mean you have more room for the downpipe... youd have the same amount of room regardless of whether it was internal or external.

 

I've gotten about 2.80" out of it. More than enough for 300whp

 

yea that should be decent.. Still would be better to eliminate the elbow altogether and get a v-band adapter from atp... way better boost control especially when combined with a ported flapper

 

So for sure i know if im going to do anything the first thing is to open the exhaust outlet as big as possible and try to reach a 3""

do you know where i can get a flange like on the 18g so i can have a pipe welded onto it so i can eliminate the elbow piece?

and if i go external wastegate can i use the vacume lines that went from the turbo to my internal actuator and connect them the same way to the external wastegate? or do i have to run extra vacume lines. also would the back pressure automaticly release through the external wastegate using the ramhorn manifold or do i have to modify something in the 18g? thanks for all replies

 

do you have ac? if so you cant go that way... i've only told you like 5 times... atp turbo has the flanges... you need a gt28 outlet flange, in reality the vband adapter is best but none of this stuff is cheap.
you can port the stock greddy elbow like TheShodan said and run a 3" downpipe off of that and be ok

 

and the downpipe is only half the battle... you need to port the internal flapper a bit, get a stronger/stiffer wastegate actuator and run a full 3" exhaust

heres the adapter
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FLG

you still need u-bends and more flanges to bolt the downpipe to your exhaust.... I seriously suggest you buy this adapter and go to a qualified fabricator, give the adapter and tell him what you want and let him handle the rest.

 

and you're looking at about 100 dollars for the upgraded actuator... I think people use the high pressure gt28r unit from atp but I don't remember.

I don't really get what you are trying to accomplish.

Unless you do the following (a list... over again...)
Port internal wastegate flapper
FULL 3" exhaust
Upgraded wastegate actuator
3" downpipe

then you're just wasting time and money