Flashing abs light when driving (video inside)
Hey Folks,
Here's the story, i got a 00 civic si (cdn model) that i got another d16y8 swapped into it in Nov 2011 (original engine died) last August my alternator went and i had it replaced and since then the srs light comes on and off once in awhile and the headlights get brighter and dimmer at night time, i'm thinking the alternator is sending a funny signal. About a few months ago the abs light started coming on and flashing then going off all this while driving.
here's the vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CP9IDpkoEiI
also the check engine light is code P0420, has to do with the catalytic system not being efficient or something, its always been there.
sorry for the shaky camera work, it was the passenger that took the vid. let me know if your thoughts,
thanks!
Here's the story, i got a 00 civic si (cdn model) that i got another d16y8 swapped into it in Nov 2011 (original engine died) last August my alternator went and i had it replaced and since then the srs light comes on and off once in awhile and the headlights get brighter and dimmer at night time, i'm thinking the alternator is sending a funny signal. About a few months ago the abs light started coming on and flashing then going off all this while driving.
here's the vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CP9IDpkoEiI
also the check engine light is code P0420, has to do with the catalytic system not being efficient or something, its always been there.
sorry for the shaky camera work, it was the passenger that took the vid. let me know if your thoughts,
thanks!
Have you tried simply resetting the ECU to see if it comes back? Remove the positive battery terminal, try to start the car (it won't start, but that'll discharge any residual power safely), then reconnect the battery terminal and turn it over.
What is the red warning light that stayed on and turned off at the end of the video?
When you turn the key from OFF to ON(II), does the red charging system light (battery symbol) turn on and stay on?
If you pull CEL codes now, does only P0420 pop up?
When you turn the key from OFF to ON(II), does the red charging system light (battery symbol) turn on and stay on?
If you pull CEL codes now, does only P0420 pop up?
I've tried resetting the ecu by unhooking the battery and the problem still exists.
the red warning light is the SRS light. When i turn the key from OFF to ON(II) the battery symbol stays on. I just pulled the code again and its
P0420 (i have a OBDII reader)
i guess i'll have the alterator tested at a shop and they'll probably replace it, just really wanted to fix it myself.
thanks for the input.
the red warning light is the SRS light. When i turn the key from OFF to ON(II) the battery symbol stays on. I just pulled the code again and its
P0420 (i have a OBDII reader)
i guess i'll have the alterator tested at a shop and they'll probably replace it, just really wanted to fix it myself.
thanks for the input.
ya i was reading that i should get around 14v at the battery terminal with the car on and turning on all the accessories to act as a load (AC, headlights, radio etc...)
if i get below 14v, my alternator is bad ?
if i get below 14v, my alternator is bad ?
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Either too low or too high voltage is bad.
Measure the voltage between the two battery posts with the warm engine idling under no electrical load and under high electrical load (high beams, cabin fan, and rear defroster turned on). Also look for abnormal voltage spikes as voltage should be pretty steady. Post the results.
Measure the voltage between the two battery posts with the warm engine idling under no electrical load and under high electrical load (high beams, cabin fan, and rear defroster turned on). Also look for abnormal voltage spikes as voltage should be pretty steady. Post the results.
Here are my results
Engine off battery = 12.79v
Engine on idle = 14.18v-14.20v
Engine on with load = 12.42v - 12.44v
Engine on with load and throttle held = 12.98v-13.05v
So my test under load indicates the alternator isn't performing properly ? guess i'll have to change it out.
Engine off battery = 12.79v
Engine on idle = 14.18v-14.20v
Engine on with load = 12.42v - 12.44v
Engine on with load and throttle held = 12.98v-13.05v
So my test under load indicates the alternator isn't performing properly ? guess i'll have to change it out.
so i got my alternator changed out i went and tested the voltage at the battery with everything on (AC, Highbeams, defrost radio, 4 ways) and i get a reading of 12.67v-12.70v with just the highbeams i get 13.90v, i guess with more components on the less voltage.
so it makes me wonder probably the voltage regulator on the old alternator was wonky. i'm no longer getting flashing srs lights or abs lights and my headlights aren't getting brighter and dimmer. the mechanic said when he took the old alternator out to have it tested it was testing bad.
case closed... for now
thanks for the insight and help.
so it makes me wonder probably the voltage regulator on the old alternator was wonky. i'm no longer getting flashing srs lights or abs lights and my headlights aren't getting brighter and dimmer. the mechanic said when he took the old alternator out to have it tested it was testing bad.
case closed... for now
thanks for the insight and help.
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