I did brake fluid flush following these steps. But brake paddle does not feel firm.

1 Install a proper box-end wrench to the right rear wheel circuit bleeder valve. Maintain fluid level at full in reservoir throughout the process.

2 Place a transparent hose over the bleeder valve. Submerge the end of the hose in a clear container partially filled with brake fluid.
3 My helper depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on it. Once he has steady pressure on it, loosen the bleeder valve to release air from the brake line.
4. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 1 through 4 with the same tire until no more air bubbles come out.
5. Follow steps 1 through 5 for each additional brake. Fill the master cylinder reservoir completely after all the brakes are done.

 

Are your brake pads worn down?

 

Drum brakes in the rear?

 

Brake pads are at 70%. Drum on rear.

 

I replaced my brakes about a month ago as well as the brake fluid and I rebled the system twice and my brake pedal was soft. What ended up happening was the rear drum self adjusters werent working. So I ended up adjusting them by hand. I would raise the rear wheels off the ground and spin each wheel. You should hear the brake pads slightly rubbing against the drum and the wheel should come to a stop soon after you spin the wheel.

 

If you take the drum off, I would also check the wheel cylinders for any leaks or damage.

 

With the engine not running, if you pump the brake pedal, does it get firm? After this, if you stand on the pedal hard for a three minutes, does it drop *at all*? If so, you may have a leak somewhere. If not, you may simply still have air in one of the lines, or as someone suggested, the rear drums may not be adjusting correctly. Oh, between steps 3 and 4 that you mentioned, did you close the bleeder valve? Also, how far did you loosen it to bleed? (The less, the better-- air can sneak back in via the bleeder bolt threads, especially if not re-closed closed between pedal pumps.)