so its a 95 accord 2.2l 5spd non vtech
it was being driven the timing belt lost some teeth
so the car died so i checked the valves and compression is all good
so i did a complete rebuild on it new rings and bearings water pump plugs wire cap rotor timing belts. head gasket everthing

timing marks i have checked 6 times there dead nuts
has spark and fuel and it turns over but wont run

 

you have spark and fuel? are you sure you have fuel getting into the cylinder it self? because if you have no fuel going into the cylinder then you have no fuel, sure you might have fuel pressure but you have no fuel being dumped in. make sure all ground wires are connected and tight. also make sure you connected the resister box. and if it still doesn't start you might have a bad dizzy

 

well even dumpping fuel in the cylinders it still wont run also it ran fine before the belts teeth broke

 

Have you tested the compression AFTER the rebuild ?

 

yes and i just got a code 9 the cyp code this morning so i have been been trying to test it whats the best way to check the cyp

 

so i tested the dizzy and it ohmed out in spec so i reset the ecu and the code went away but still no start any ideas will help

 

im going to say its your ignition module. recently i had to replace mine becuz it went bad i still have my bad one it would crank spark fuel being dumped in. but the icm tells the coil when to fire. if the icm is bad your coil is not firing when its suppose to. just take the dizzy to autozone they have a machine to test it with

 

ignition moudule!!

 

check fuses under dash the alternator one

 

which is the one for the altenator

 

that fuse is not under the dash. its under the hood. it should be a green fuse or black. its big. here mine. its a big black fuse. thats your alternator fuse. even if it was blown the car still starts. only thing is that it wont charge your battery

 

Double check the ground on the drivers end of the TB (G101).

 

i changed the ignition control module still no start.

now which ground r u talking about

 

assuming you have the timing "DEAD NUTS ON"(because otherwise this will hurt the motor),

crank the motor a little with open throttle.
do you get any backfiring?small pops ect.?

 

why did you replace it without testing it first? could of saved $50 if you would of had it tested at autozone

 

open throttle gets back fire and pops also i didnt replace it with a new icm just one out of a running car. also not to **** anyone off but AUTOZONE IS THE MOST WORTHLESS AUTO STORE IN THE F-ING WORLD they dont know a damn thing where i live. i ask my 4yr old daughter the same questions i ask them and i get better answers out of her.lol

 

amen brother LOL.same where i live.but who's to say they should?they arent certified,and most of them arent any more knowledgeable than you or me.

so what i need to know now is:
do you have spark?take one spark plug out,put it in the plug wire and sit it on your valve cover(make sure it is grounding).have somebody watch for spark while you crank it over(dont do it too much,just make sure you have spark.)

if you have spark,then you need to do your valve lash,based on the popping/backfiring as described.






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Note: While all valve adjustments must be as accurate as possible, it is better to have the valve adjustment slightly loose rather than too tight. Burned valves may result from overly tight adjustments. Perform the valve adjustment for each cylinder in the same sequence as the firing order: 1-3-4-2.

1) Be sure the engine is cold; cylinder head temperature must be below 100° F (38° C). Overnight cold is best.

2) Remove the cylinder head cover and the upper timing belt cover.

3) Set the No. 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC). The word UP should appear at the top and the TDC grooves on the pulley should align with the cylinder head surface or the mark on the rear belt cover.

4) Valve clearances are:
B18B1 engine: Intake—0.003-0.005 in. (0.08-0.12mm), Exhaust—0.006-0.008 in. (0.16-0.20mm)
B18C1 and B18C5 Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC) engine: Intake—0.006-0.007 in. (0.15-0.19mm), Exhaust—0.007-0.008 in. (0.17-0.20mm)

5) With the No. 1 cylinder at TDC, adjust the valves of the No. 1 cylinder by performing the following procedures:
Hold the rocker arm against the valve and place the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the camshaft lobe. There should be a slight drag on the feeler gauge.
If adjustment is required, loosen the valve adjusting the screw locknut.
Turn the adjusting screw to obtain the proper clearance.
Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut(s) to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Recheck the clearance.

6) Turn the crankshaft 180 degrees counterclockwise; the cam pulley will turn 90 degrees. With the No. 3 cylinder at TDC, the UP marks should be at the exhaust side. Adjust the valves on the No. 3 cylinder.

7) Turn the crankshaft 180 degrees counterclockwise; the cam pulley will turn 90 degrees. With the No. 4 cylinder at TDC, both UP marks should be at the bottom. Adjust the valves on the No. 4 cylinder.

8) Turn the crankshaft 180 degrees counterclockwise. The No. 2 cylinder will now be on TDC and the UP marks should be at the intake side. Adjust the valves on the No. 2 cylinder.

9) Install the cylinder head cover and upper timing belt cover.


Good luck!

 

ok thanks ill try that are the specs the same for an f22b2 as the b18b1

 

sorry,no they are not.i forgot which section i was in LOL.

Intake 0.07 - 0.11mm
Exhaust 0.15 - 0.19mm

same as h23a

 

maybe where you live but not out here. they have a machine where they just plug in the dizzy and press start. thats it.

 

update??

 

so heres the update i got a compession tester just make sure the last guy wasent bullshi*ting me and theres 0 compression on all cylinders.

im going to be checking the valves today to see if when all r closed if the valve leak in a cylinder pressure test

 

no way bro. your telling me that just from cranking the engine you didnt notive 0 compression at all. 0 compression thats noticeable and i mean big time. you can hear it.

 

i expected low compression...but NO compression at all?check again bro.and make sure your valves are all adjusted CORRECTLY..then try compression test again..

 

so i took compressed air into the cylinder 1 and the exhaust valves at the sealed position leaked air past them so im asuming when the belt jumped it had burned up the exhaust valves