DIY. Removing hub for brake job on 90-97's
Thread Starter
No Big Whoop
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,120
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From: A little closer to the Ecuator
I have read the FAQ post on how to do the front brakes on a 90-97 accord. It is a very nice wrtite up but leaves a rather big gap when it comes to the real meat of the problem. Getting the hub off the knuckle. Before you even consider doing the job you need a sledge hammer, not a carpentry hammer.

The OP on the FAQ post used a puller to separate the hub, but that doesn't always work.
One reason is the puller is designed to work on SOLID axles. Our axles are CV jointed with a FLOATING axle. They are not designed to be pressed in the way the puller does. On a stubborn hub you could end up damaging the CV joints.
One thing I found out is that doing the brakes with the axle in place is just way too hard.
Spend a few minutes to get the Axle out of the hub, it will make matters much simpler.
I preffer to free the upper control arm. I have had bad luck separating ball joints and I always end up having to replace that as well. So I just free the upper A arm and that gives enough room to pull out the axle with the wheel turned all the way to the side.

Now the axle out of the way and sitting on the radious arm.

You will need to remove 4 bolts from the back of the hub. The blue arrow points to the area where you should spray some penetrating oil. That is the bub's outer edge.

Now here you have an option. you can use a sacrificial pair of bolts, blue boxes.

Or you can use the bolts in the hub. I used two bolts of the same size and thread pitch but a little longer. I used those to drive the hub out and the two original bolts to help me remove the bub evenly. I unscrewed the stock bolts two turns and then hammer on the other two bolts until there was no gap. Then unscrew another two turns and hammer again.

If you do not have extra bolts, then unscrew all 4 bolts 2 turns and using a socket over the bolt's head hit them with the hammer. NEVER hit the original bolts with the hammer directly. You WILL damage those and then you'll have a heck of a time putting the bub back together.


Work slowly. Make sure the gap is spreading evenly and hit all 4 screws in a circular pattern, that is very important. This is the result. the hub is out held by the two longer screws. Please do not back out the original screws all the way to hammer on them. They need to be inserted on the threads almost all the way as you start. Only a couple of turns at the max.

Both hubs on my car were rust welded and took a lot of hammering to get them to come out. The reinstall was the opposite and as you can see a heck of a lot easyer with the axle out of the way.
Once the hub is in all the way put the axle back in and finish the job.
You are done with the hardest part.



The OP on the FAQ post used a puller to separate the hub, but that doesn't always work.
One reason is the puller is designed to work on SOLID axles. Our axles are CV jointed with a FLOATING axle. They are not designed to be pressed in the way the puller does. On a stubborn hub you could end up damaging the CV joints.
One thing I found out is that doing the brakes with the axle in place is just way too hard.
Spend a few minutes to get the Axle out of the hub, it will make matters much simpler.
I preffer to free the upper control arm. I have had bad luck separating ball joints and I always end up having to replace that as well. So I just free the upper A arm and that gives enough room to pull out the axle with the wheel turned all the way to the side.

Now the axle out of the way and sitting on the radious arm.

You will need to remove 4 bolts from the back of the hub. The blue arrow points to the area where you should spray some penetrating oil. That is the bub's outer edge.

Now here you have an option. you can use a sacrificial pair of bolts, blue boxes.

Or you can use the bolts in the hub. I used two bolts of the same size and thread pitch but a little longer. I used those to drive the hub out and the two original bolts to help me remove the bub evenly. I unscrewed the stock bolts two turns and then hammer on the other two bolts until there was no gap. Then unscrew another two turns and hammer again.

If you do not have extra bolts, then unscrew all 4 bolts 2 turns and using a socket over the bolt's head hit them with the hammer. NEVER hit the original bolts with the hammer directly. You WILL damage those and then you'll have a heck of a time putting the bub back together.


Work slowly. Make sure the gap is spreading evenly and hit all 4 screws in a circular pattern, that is very important. This is the result. the hub is out held by the two longer screws. Please do not back out the original screws all the way to hammer on them. They need to be inserted on the threads almost all the way as you start. Only a couple of turns at the max.

Both hubs on my car were rust welded and took a lot of hammering to get them to come out. The reinstall was the opposite and as you can see a heck of a lot easyer with the axle out of the way.
Once the hub is in all the way put the axle back in and finish the job.
You are done with the hardest part.


Last edited by Spaceballsthelunchbox; Jun 23, 2012 at 03:32 PM.
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