Alright so first post sorry if its not in the right section.
I have a 1988 Honda CRX with a d16z6 swap. First off the swap i did was the long way, i swapped for the obd1 with p28 and used all the engine wiring from the d16z6 out of a 95 civic ex. I have tested all of the connections form the engine to the ecu, soldered and heat shrank all the splices. And after i was done i had the two codes above along with the engine bogging under heavy load like a fuel delivery problem it does it both warm and cold. I have checked and cleaned all the grounds, I have replaced the fuel pick up screen, the fuel filter, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap. I checked the timing and have cleaned the fitv and the iacv. And I still don't know what is causing any of my three issues any help would be great! :D

 

well your code 14 is your iac so either cleaning it wasnt good enough or the is a break in a wire, replace with a known working one and see what that does

as for code 20 that is the electronic load detector, it is a box that is in the back of your underdash fuse box, when my crx had code 20 it also bogged, after replacing the eld the code went away and the car ran spectacular

 

I re-cleaned the IACV and resealed it, checked the lines and they checked out, I still need to replace with known good one, but i wanted to see if a vac leak could cause this issue? also can i bypass the ELD i thought some models didn't come with them.

 

update: not sure yet about the codes, but i got rid of the bogging by cleaning out my fuel injectors, the screen in the top, and replacing the gaskets feels great! Still trying for to get rid of the codes, i haven't tried a new IACV yet no junk yards have one in the small town of Boone.

 

Listen . I just did this swap and I realized that I had switch the Iacv wire with the unused tandem control wires. If your car cant maintain idle it will trip the eld . This will clean up your idle and fix the eld problem . Easiest way to check is if you have a white connector into your iacv . It should be green .