Engine lift points on 91 accord
Hey guys. I'm a beginner here trying to do a first time engine pull and mount. My question is this: Where are the lift points on the engine? I know that there is a bracket on the power steering and also the transmission, but I don't want to use the transmission one because it doesn't make sense since I am going to mount it on an engine stand with the crane.
Someone on another forum told me to use those two points but it doesn't make sense to me, there must be other points which are better for lifting it.
If someone has some pictures it would be great... Please provide pics.
Thanks very much
Someone on another forum told me to use those two points but it doesn't make sense to me, there must be other points which are better for lifting it.
If someone has some pictures it would be great... Please provide pics.
Thanks very much
Use the factory lift hangers. Pull the engine and trans out of the car and place it on the ground. place a couple 2x4s on the ground if you are worried about the oil pan. Remove the transmission from the engine block and mount the engine stand bracket to your block. Then using the PS lift bracket and any usable spot on the engine stand bracket. Lift the engine with your lift and slide the cylinder of the engine stand bracket into the engine stand...... 
Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this procedure.

Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this procedure.
See here:

Let me know what you think.
Well it's obvious that you are just looking for affirmation. Therefore, I say do what you want and let us know how it works out for you.
Just a heads up, IMO it is much easier to take the engine and trans out as a complete unit......
Just a heads up, IMO it is much easier to take the engine and trans out as a complete unit......
Use the factory lift hangers. Pull the engine and trans out of the car and place it on the ground. place a couple 2x4s on the ground if you are worried about the oil pan. Remove the transmission from the engine block and mount the engine stand bracket to your block. Then using the PS lift bracket and any usable spot on the engine stand bracket. Lift the engine with your lift and slide the cylinder of the engine stand bracket into the engine stand...... .
Maybe i'll just use the other points I showed in the pics to put in on the stand.... Thanks anyway.
just my $.02 but...
In the picture on the left it's hard to tell what it's bolted to but if it's bolted down with a trans bolt you'll still need to set the engine down to remove the trans. Also, with the chains being bolted down lower like they are in those pictures there is more chances for the chain to rub on other parts of the engine during removal. In the picture on the left it looks like that sensor is close as well as the distributor and in the picture on the right the upper side engine cover could get damaged.
When I've pulled the engine from my 95 EX I used the factory lift points and had no problems. I did just as GA had described by placing the engine on blocks on the ground, removing the transmission, attaching engine stand bracket, lifting to the engine stand using one factory lift point and the bracket as the other.
In the picture on the left it's hard to tell what it's bolted to but if it's bolted down with a trans bolt you'll still need to set the engine down to remove the trans. Also, with the chains being bolted down lower like they are in those pictures there is more chances for the chain to rub on other parts of the engine during removal. In the picture on the left it looks like that sensor is close as well as the distributor and in the picture on the right the upper side engine cover could get damaged.
When I've pulled the engine from my 95 EX I used the factory lift points and had no problems. I did just as GA had described by placing the engine on blocks on the ground, removing the transmission, attaching engine stand bracket, lifting to the engine stand using one factory lift point and the bracket as the other.
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just my $.02 but...
In the picture on the left it's hard to tell what it's bolted to but if it's bolted down with a trans bolt you'll still need to set the engine down to remove the trans. Also, with the chains being bolted down lower like they are in those pictures there is more chances for the chain to rub on other parts of the engine during removal. In the picture on the left it looks like that sensor is close as well as the distributor and in the picture on the right the upper side engine cover could get damaged.
In the picture on the left it's hard to tell what it's bolted to but if it's bolted down with a trans bolt you'll still need to set the engine down to remove the trans. Also, with the chains being bolted down lower like they are in those pictures there is more chances for the chain to rub on other parts of the engine during removal. In the picture on the left it looks like that sensor is close as well as the distributor and in the picture on the right the upper side engine cover could get damaged.
This is the one I'm using:

When I've pulled the engine from my 95 EX I used the factory lift points and had no problems. I did just as GA had described by placing the engine on blocks on the ground, removing the transmission, attaching engine stand bracket, lifting to the engine stand using one factory lift point and the bracket as the other.
Thanks a lot for the input, gonna need some prayers, its my first time pulling an engine and doing a rebuild.

Besides, others have advised me not to do that since it is harder.
Actually if you have the ability to lift the car I found it much easier to drop the complete drive train. I have done it both ways and dropping it was easier. However, I had the proper tools to lift the car and slide the engine out. Without them it would be a bit more difficult.
I personally have tried to lift the engine out of a 1990 Accord auto. It did not come out without be breaking the crank pulley and scratching the body. I bought this accord for parts and I just wanted to yank the motor. So I cut off the engine mounts and pulled it. It took way to long. It would work with a load leveler.
I have also done a swap where I dropped the engine it falls right out!!!! The hard part is sliding the engine out. I used my 2 ton engine hoist wrapped around the front of the car and chains on the tow hooks. Also when re installing the new motor you slide it under, drop the car, then lift the motor with the hoist. Its so easy.
I have also done a swap where I dropped the engine it falls right out!!!! The hard part is sliding the engine out. I used my 2 ton engine hoist wrapped around the front of the car and chains on the tow hooks. Also when re installing the new motor you slide it under, drop the car, then lift the motor with the hoist. Its so easy.
I personally have tried to lift the engine out of a 1990 Accord auto. It did not come out without be breaking the crank pulley and scratching the body. I bought this accord for parts and I just wanted to yank the motor. So I cut off the engine mounts and pulled it. It took way to long. It would work with a load leveler.
I have also done a swap where I dropped the engine it falls right out!!!! The hard part is sliding the engine out. I used my 2 ton engine hoist wrapped around the front of the car and chains on the tow hooks. Also when re installing the new motor you slide it under, drop the car, then lift the motor with the hoist. Its so easy.
I have also done a swap where I dropped the engine it falls right out!!!! The hard part is sliding the engine out. I used my 2 ton engine hoist wrapped around the front of the car and chains on the tow hooks. Also when re installing the new motor you slide it under, drop the car, then lift the motor with the hoist. Its so easy.
Engine fell right out, lol, must have sucked.
What i've decided to do is remove the ex/in manifolds and the cyl head and use the head bolts to lift it. I already did this today and so its perfectly primed for removal. Took me an hour or two but it was worth it, got to see the health of my cylinder head. Didn't look good, see this thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post3014608
With the engine leveler, I will have four perfect lift spots to lift the engine from so i am thankful for that.
well this is unorthodoxed and alot of people on here are going to be like wtf but i used the one stock mount and wrapped a chain around my intake manifold right in front of where the throttle body connects and it it worked fine but watch out for the sensors right there and if u break n e thing its not on me lol....dont try this at home
What you do is you remove the front to back member. Then you drop the engine in with the transmission down, then use a jack to jack up the tranny into place. If you don't remove the front to back member you will crush your crank pulley.
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