I want a real opinion from real racers with experience
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 529
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From: NORTHERN California
Car is a 97 Integra coupe full interior daily driver weekend dragger and soon to get into road racing.
this is the set up planned
B16 fully built with CTR internals and GSR head ported standard with Portflow design internals. GSR tranny
OR
B20 with rids and pistons and B16 head stock GSR tranny
what would you guys go with.budget wise
this is the set up planned
B16 fully built with CTR internals and GSR head ported standard with Portflow design internals. GSR tranny
OR
B20 with rids and pistons and B16 head stock GSR tranny
what would you guys go with.budget wise
well in my opinion,
I dont really like the B16 as a base for allmotor Drag engine.
but for a road racing car, the B16 is good enough.
if you are looking to do both, then I'd go with just an LS/vtec.
I dont believe in doing up the B20 and putting rods and pistons in it. if you were to do that kind of upgrades, I'd rather sleeve and bore an LS and fix that up.
but if budget permits, a freshly built LS/VTEC would be a great setup
Wil
I dont really like the B16 as a base for allmotor Drag engine.
but for a road racing car, the B16 is good enough.
if you are looking to do both, then I'd go with just an LS/vtec.
I dont believe in doing up the B20 and putting rods and pistons in it. if you were to do that kind of upgrades, I'd rather sleeve and bore an LS and fix that up.
but if budget permits, a freshly built LS/VTEC would be a great setup
Wil
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From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
in the millions of buidups i've done for integras, they always require at least a 1.8 or 2.0 L to pull it because its so heavy, b16a revs very nice but you need the b20 torque.
greg
greg
B16 forged pistons balanced crank boosted and screw the GSR head they just don't flow as well even when worked heavily. Then first upgrade should be Skunk2 IM & 70mm TB. That's what I'd do. That B20 with A deckplate forged pistons and custom rods and balanced ITR crank with boost would work to. I'm unconventional though.
[Modified by tzsir, 5:06 AM 10/14/2002]
[Modified by tzsir, 5:06 AM 10/14/2002]
I would go with the biggest swap possible. If you're racing competitively, I'm pretty sure an engine swap would throw you into high Mod class where almost anything goes in terms of engine and drivetrain modifications. If you're gonna be in that class anyways, why not make the most of it.
It really depends on what sanctioning bodies of organized racing you're gonna be involved in.
If you're road racing, I'd go with the bigger engine hands down. You're gonna want the fatter midrange in slow turns. Like wise, an ITR tranny would benefit you with its shorter and tighter gearing to keep you higher up in the rpm band (where these motors make the most power) in those slow turns.
It really depends on what sanctioning bodies of organized racing you're gonna be involved in.
If you're road racing, I'd go with the bigger engine hands down. You're gonna want the fatter midrange in slow turns. Like wise, an ITR tranny would benefit you with its shorter and tighter gearing to keep you higher up in the rpm band (where these motors make the most power) in those slow turns.
You may want to consider what group you are going to roadrace with before starting the preparation stages. I believe the only large group that allows engine swaps is NASA.
My humble suggestion is get the track time now with the stock engine and start on the suspension and safety gear. Once you are comfortable with lines, etc, then start on the engine work based on where you want to run.
My humble suggestion is get the track time now with the stock engine and start on the suspension and safety gear. Once you are comfortable with lines, etc, then start on the engine work based on where you want to run.
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You may want to consider what group you are going to roadrace with before starting the preparation stages. I believe the only large group that allows engine swaps is NASA.
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From: boldly scornful of higher mental function, US
theres always gonna be some jealous ***** that tell you to "learn the line" or "get some track time", just spend your money where ya want, and if you dont like the setup, try another one, i went from built D16, to a jrsc'd D16, to an ls/vtec, and now im gonna build a b16 for road racing purposes, message me so we can exchange ideas.
Money is better spent on entry fees than on a setup that you can't run anywhere except the local autocross.
-Chris, jealous **** who knows what he's saying--this time.
IF your going into road racing you want to keep nice and light. Think about all the fast domestics (Mustang, Camero) There crappy track car but great for straights.
Edit: And i think you should spend the money to get track time to learn how to race.
[Modified by Fuuma0083, 10:22 PM 10/14/2002]
Edit: And i think you should spend the money to get track time to learn how to race.
[Modified by Fuuma0083, 10:22 PM 10/14/2002]
IF your going into road racing you want to keep nice and light. Think about all the fast domestics (Mustang, Camero) There crappy track car but great for straights.
If anything putting stuff together was not always a good idea in my mind but that is just my opnion. You want to drag and road race you honestly could not be competive in both you would have to choose one. For drags I would do a built h22 (turbo, internals etc.), and your body on a diet. For road racing I would just get the b18c5 ITR motor, and build your suspension, im no road racer but it is common sense on what you need, and yes I know it is more in depth.
Yeaht that is honestly true, I think you should just work with what you got man. If you have an LS then you basically have half of you LS/VTEC done is that is one of the things you want to aim for. If it is a GSR, then work with that!
I'd bore the LS block and put a B16 head on it. Should be the biggest HP/$ payoff, or don't bore it and put a B16 head on it. Then you can look at a different tranny.
Just some advice, I wouldn't use an LS or B20/vtec engine setup for road racing, that motor will deteriorate faster than normal with the endurance runs you'll put it through at a track event. Stick with a 100% vtec engine or non-vtec engine if you plan to make the car a roadrace/dailydriver car. You'll enjoy the benfits of reliablity...
Almost nowhere in the road racing community is an engine swap allowed. Where it is, you are running agianst heavily modified machinery with serious speed, pushing 700 or so horses.
I cant even believe you would post something like that.....
Almost nowhere in the road racing community is an engine swap allowed. Where it is, you are running agianst heavily modified machinery with serious speed, pushing 700 or so horses.
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where the hell do you get your information from
I cant even believe you would post something like that.....
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where the hell do you get your information from
I cant even believe you would post something like that.....
" Stick with a 100% vtec engine or non-vtec engine if you plan to make the car a roadrace/dailydriver car. You'll enjoy the benfits of reliablity"
It has got to make you wonder when people who could benefit from the extra business all of the frankenstein motors have generated are telling you to stay away from them.
It has got to make you wonder when people who could benefit from the extra business all of the frankenstein motors have generated are telling you to stay away from them.
there is VERY minimal differences in the LS crank and the GS-R crank after everything is balanced out , and if you dont balance a motor built to for roadracing you dont deserve to build one at all
I have a B16 in my car now , its fun and has NO torque I wish I would've gone 1.8 to start and will do so over the winter
my car is being built for the Honda-challenge and has seen 5 track weekends so far this year , I have NO worries about a nice inexpensive LS/VTEC and I cant wait for the torque out of the turns
" Stick with a 100% vtec engine or non-vtec engine if you plan to make the car a roadrace/dailydriver car. You'll enjoy the benfits of reliablity"
It has got to make you wonder when people who could benefit from the extra business all of the frankenstein motors have generated are telling you to stay away from them.
I dont agree with that one bit , there is plenty of LS/Vtec set-ups that have zero reliability issues , that motor gets a bad rap from people that dont put them together correctly
there is VERY minimal differences in the LS crank and the GS-R crank after everything is balanced out , and if you dont balance a motor built to for roadracing you dont deserve to build one at all
I have a B16 in my car now , its fun and has NO torque I wish I would've gone 1.8 to start and will do so over the winter
my car is being built for the Honda-challenge and has seen 5 track weekends so far this year , I have NO worries about a nice inexpensive LS/VTEC and I cant wait for the torque out of the turns
It has got to make you wonder when people who could benefit from the extra business all of the frankenstein motors have generated are telling you to stay away from them.
I dont agree with that one bit , there is plenty of LS/Vtec set-ups that have zero reliability issues , that motor gets a bad rap from people that dont put them together correctly
there is VERY minimal differences in the LS crank and the GS-R crank after everything is balanced out , and if you dont balance a motor built to for roadracing you dont deserve to build one at all
I have a B16 in my car now , its fun and has NO torque I wish I would've gone 1.8 to start and will do so over the winter
my car is being built for the Honda-challenge and has seen 5 track weekends so far this year , I have NO worries about a nice inexpensive LS/VTEC and I cant wait for the torque out of the turns


