Like title states, I have a 1990 Honda Accord with a JDM H22a swap. Fidanza flywheel, EGR block-off plate, No O2 sensor(Due to 100% throttle all of the time). Fuel pump, ignition, Fans, and starter are all on switches, currently using the JDM P13 ECU, have also tried the USDM P13 ECU.

Here is a video of what the car does;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3udFh...&feature=g-upl

The issue arises at 2:22 into the video.

I've changed MAP sensor, ECT sensor, Bypassed FPR to ensure full 43psi all the time, all fuses are good, and a bunch of other suff.

Today I noticed that my TPS was at 0.63V@idle and 4.73v@WOT. Re-adjusted it to the proper readings of 0.45v@idle and 4.50v@WOT.

Check the injectors and found a slight crack in the pintle cover of one of the injectors. I researched and found that the injector is fine if it's just the pintle cover that has slight damage.

I also noticed that the car will redline at 6500rpm rather than 7500 like the stock P13 H22 should. This indicates that something clearly isn't right. I tried wiring up something to pull codes, but no luck. Grounded the D4 pin then took a test light to A13 with the ignition on hoping it would flash and give me codes, but no luck. Or am I doing this wrong?

To conclude, the plugs signify that the car is running lean. If I turn of the power and restart the car in the middle of a run th eproblem wont come back for a lap or two because the ecu resets itself...

Any ideas? I'm stumped aswell as everyone else at the track in my division.

Thanks in advance!

 

Also to add; I will be racing tomorrow so I can see if the TPS readjustment will do anything...

 

Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, and/or do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the car? Assumption is the mother of all ****-ups. If the pump is dying then no matter how many tricks you do, there won't be an improvement.

 

I have a FP gauge inline itht he fuel line inside the car... Stayed pinned at 43psi while this was going on. When I'm looking down in the video when it happens is me looking at that gauge...

 

Would an Integra GSR fuel pump be fine to try on the car? I'm going to put the vacuum line back on for the FPR...

 

I have a similiar issue going on with my f22 right now, it could be many things but sounds like your ignition coil is breaking up at higher rpm.

 

How can I test it? And is it not weird how the car works fine then 3 laps in it acts up???

 

Sorry, don't know if that interchanges. Are you sure the ignition is working fine?

EDIT: Thank you Firefox for the delayed reply...

 

You can measure the resistance between the primary and secondary windings.
Refer to a service manual to get the exact amount of ohms, I'm just not sure what an h22 coil should reflect when in range.

And yes it is strange, it could have to do with heat in the coil itself but that's just a guess.
Intermittent drivability issues are always difficult to diagnose.
Best of luck

 

Don't forget to check the secondary side either.
Was at Buttonwillow, damn sparkplug wire on a cylinder was not fully seated and popped off, had the car come in early loosing out on a full session

 

I would think that you would need a tunable/tuned ecu in order to run without an oxygen sensor.

 

Okay, thanks I'll test the coil tomorrow morning. As for the O2 sensor, all of my previous cars didn't have them seeing we're always at 100% throttle.

 

The system will stay in Open Loop without one. But if he is running at WOT, the ECU pulls from pre-set tables. So a functional O2 in that sense would do little to nothing in operation. Unless the ECU has a limp(rpm limiter)/default for not having the O2 connected that affects WOT operation.

 

Tested my coil; from + to coil spring it read 17.3 ohms at 200k on MM. From - to + it read 0ohms at 200 on the MM.

Tried another coil pack and it read 1.20 from the - to + at 200 on the MM.

MM=multi meter..

 

You're secondary resistance sounds right in the ballpark, in my external coil, the range is from 14k to 23k ohms I believe.
Primary resistance should be from .5-.9 ohms.

 

Well after trying a new coil, resoldering my main relay, the car is still acting up. Anyone know how to test the VSS and knock sensor? Seeing that I eliminated a bit of the harness (Tailights, speakers, and some interior stuff) maybe the VSS isn't sending any signals causing the car to be in limp mode?

 

Also, can anyone help me with wiring a CEL light right from the ECU pinouts??? I've tried yet no flashing light results to receive codes...

 

MIL light setup

• Run wire from a Power source = 10A Fuse No.1 (under dash fuse box)
• Run power source to one side of Malfunction indicator light, bulb of your choice
• then ground the other side A13 of ECU

For a more permanent type Service check connector setup.
• wire up a 2 pin open connector
• One wire from D4 (SCS)
• The other wire from D22 (SG2)
Jump the open connector and you have a completed MIL/SCS circuit.

(Or for a short work around you could short D4 to D22 with a single wire and it will do the same thing)

 

PERFECT! Thanks! I'll go try this out later today! If I can pull codes it would definitely help me diagnose my issue with my race car...

 

Okay so apparently the way i wired my car it needs to be running in order to retrieve codes... Uploading a video...

4 long flashes and 1 fast signifies Primary O2 heater... but I think I'll have more codes once I track the car again... which is when it aacts up...

 

Okay, so no other codes as of yet... But when I unplug my TPS while the car is running, nothing changes... and no CEL, BUT when I go to plug it back one while running, the car stalls???

 

Here is the video of my CEL; Only code I get (41) Should be getting EGR aswell seeing it's eliminated...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5WtN...ature=youtu.be

 

Another small update; I had no 7.5amp fuse in the back up (radio) fuse slot in the fuse box under the hood. Not sure if this could be affecting some circuitry but it now has a fuse.

Still only receiving the one code (41), but nothing for EGR(Should be, because there is no EGR) or any other sensors yet...

 

The ECU should have a constant power source. In most Honda's it is usually the radio (backup fuse). Other than that you will never give the ECU enough time to actually throw some of the the codes. Not all sensors issues instantly set off the CEL. Some of them require the ECU to be in a certain ready state. This takes time and on/off cycles in order to do so. If you are resetting your ECU every time you shut off your engine your not going to get all the codes.

The EGR only operates under certain load conditions. Therefore it typically won't throw a code idling in the driveway or putting around the neighbourhood. If you take your engine for a good drive you may start to see more codes. If your ECU is still loosing backup power, Remember not to shut off the car before you jump D4 & D22 to get the codes from that drive/race.

Any future plans to run a tuned EMS, chipped ECU or standalone AEM?

 

Thanks! We're not aloud running any stand alone systems, but I would like to run a tuned P28 eventually. Seeing they cant really determine anything illegal with a chip/tuned ECU.

I understand what you mean by only reading certain codes under load. Im just curious if by not having that radio/back up fusein the whole time was causing any issues besides not saving ecu cel codes??? Causing VSS not to function properly perhaps?