Prologue

Greetings, It's completely understood if some of my questions and concerns get skipped throughout the upcoming experience that I have with EFI, but most of them will be a little bit more explained in detail to remedy the status of being a noob on such forums. Also, I'd like to have peoples inputs on some of the complex things compared to my knowledge that I will most likely engage with in order to avoid any upcoming dangers prior to damaging my well built motor.

For anybody that wants to get more familiar to my introduction, Here is a link to my honda tech build in the drag racing section as this cars goal for the 1320 is most likely somewhere around the 11's, I'd love to see 10's but lacking driving experience in a boosted car down the strip is a well played factor as well. So... here goes nothing!!

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/ef9_trymes-journey-high-11s-race-build-3049141/

Mechanically, the GSR rebuild lead to a successful bottom end blueprint so far with measurement, and other variables involved except for the ring gap on one of my cylinders which I thought was a bit too excessive but shouldn't overwhelm myself too much since sufficient reading was done on other forums to proceed towards the next step

Speaking in terms of EFI, I have a very confident perspective towards acquiring more knowledge HANDS ON with the eCtune software purchased from Xenocron. The reason for such high self esteem is because two Books were read before even thinking about experimenting with the brains & electronics of a car that took me so long to build. Greg Banish is an awesome author, and an awesome guy indeed for writing up a book that explained the theories of how the EFI system worked. Currently, there is a delay in acquiring my license and with that being said, the basics still need to be covered. But I do have a very well brief understanding of hooking, and connecting the ostrich 2.0, Hulog, and setting up the xml license.

It may seem like I am writing a lot, and I don't mean to bore the living hell out of you guys, but I blame it here all on the anxiety, and being nervous for dialing in for the first time. There's always those thoughts running in the back of my head "What if this happens, what if I spike or overboost, What if I'm close to detonation that it happens so quick and I won't even know what to do ? What if .. etc." Ignoring this will be a difficult task, but such actions need to be taken affirmative and delete the fears that blind the road to a fast Honda.

Questions regarding more towards the forum rules that I didn't quiet see while reading the rules, or maybe skipped out accidentally:

Regarding the software, devices, boost controller solenoids, upcoming strategical tuning plans, etc. Should questions linked to those subjects be posted here in my log instead of making a new thread to avoid over-spam, space ?

Thank you, hope to get a good running honda in the near future!

 

Conclusion: Hands on

I was in such a haste to put the whole thing together to see if any problems where going to

be present because I was over the border of being way too anxious to hear now what a fully

built motor sounds in front of my own eyes that's been put together by me. Talk about pride!

Here are the specs for my motor so you guys can get a better understanding of what's going

on, this way I don't have to repeat myself multiple times in the thread to let others know

how I ran into things, how things where accommodated, how problems occurred, and so forth.

Vehicle: 97 Civic EK DX Hatch converted to obd1 with Jumper harness
Block: B18c1 Rebuilt( JE Pistons 10:1 Comp. GSR Eagle H Beam Rods, Stock GSR Crankshaft. )
Head: stock b16 head
Wideband: UEGO
Turbo: Precision sc34
Injectors: ID1000's
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255lph
ECU: Chipped P28, socketed for ostrich 2.0, socketed for hulog, J12 cut, and you know the

rest. Pretty much the surgeon did his best to compensate for the ability to enable eCtune

software to work at it's finest. Did run into a couple of barriers with the Hulog unit, but

I have got that resolved by doing a bit of research and figuring out that the J12 circuit on

the USDM p28's needs to be cut in order get the Hulog to connect via Datalogging.
Software: Latest version of eCtune

Even though books were read up on about EFI before taking the hands on step, there were

still errors. Man! Talk about trial, and error...More trouble I have found out is that my

UEGO wideband readings on the software didn't match the ones on my gauge display ? It was

completely different, but it didn't drive me that nuts compared to that the car kept on

flooding out or kept on dying because of the lack of fuel. At first to compensate for the

wideband issue before I tried to settle things down, I tried looking for the wiki on the

actual pgmfi.org homepage, and didn't find much information on how to calibrate it in the

ectune software. Perhaps the voltage readings need to be changed, because when I go to the

settings table inside my eCtune software and I tend to assign everything to the AEM

settings, the voltages on the conversion table do alter, and I get a whole complete

different voltage output. I did assign it to the 3.3v D14 obd1 input, which is for the

primary o2 input, it's just that I know one piece to the puzzle is missing here. I'm not so

worried about it as much as I am trying to start my car though .. anyways...it would be nice

to get stable readings on the datalog, and know the wideband isn't fighting off

communication.

Now when I got done going through one door of hell I managed to step inside another one.

My primary concern now is starting the car, I upload a stock basemap on a 2.5bar Motorola

map sensor, fuel pressure @ 43.5 on I.D 1000's(1000CC injectors), boost columns at 6, pretty

much stock settings for boost fuel and boost retard per psi, and try to start the car while

calibrating the rom of a stock p28 basemap into access and emulation.

In the beginning, I was at first scared shitless to what was going to happen next. Lol. It

was obvious that most likely overfueling was an opponent that I couldn't defeat in the ring.

The car would turn right on, and would die off after a couple of tries. Then it would over

fuel, that's when I killed the fuel pump thanks to the convenient output the software has,

and I would try starting the car then. The car would start just fine after that, and run for

a couple of minutes until it died back out. Too much Fuel was definitely thge factor that

lead to a no idle dilema at this point as I was tearing my head apart, and it was 1 AM in

the morning..mind you. -sighs-

After this, I would review over a book that pretty much would self explain itself to anybody

logic enough to understand EFI. Since the B series motors come stock from the factory with a

distributor system, I would definitely check timing with a timing light. I'm pretty sure my

base timing in the software was on point as well, since I didnt have somebody to hold the

timing light while I was cranking to check ignition timing while cranking. Once I read over

the section in my "Performance Fuel Injection system" book I realized that this method was

prior to even turning the car and getting it ready to idle. My question is if I do get the

motor to start do I have to immediately mess around with the injector offset adjustments ?

My question is, I do understand Injector offset is the dead time(latency) of how long it

takes the injector to fully open and close, and it's most likely expressed in milliseconds, linear to battery voltage. But will it effect the whole fuel tables values(pulsewidth) is what Im trying to ask ?

Perhaps dialing in for the fuel is where I am making an error at ? It could be that the pump is too strong and I have it on an extra stronger setting, or the gross table map is completely out of calibration.

I think I need to adjust the automatic highlighted fuel values during cranking ?

Then once at idle, go from there and do adjustments ?

Another question, once I get the car at idle and I have it running way too rich ? Will the car die out ? Like an afr of 11.5-12.5. I think I had that happen to me last night, but then again I think it switched to a different fuel cell on the map and died out. Argh! I wish I was more experienced with this so I didn't have such a hard time explaining. >_<

Anyways, why does it die out on a stock p28 basemap ?

 

Managing to fix the wideband issue!

Being the busy man that I am, and work putting a burden on me for the past couple of days by working 8am to 6pm, I didn't have much trouble giving my hobby a little bit of time. The wideband that is already installed in my car is working properly, however, the only thing that is bugging me at the moment is that the AFR's aren't reading problem. I have an understanding of how to calibrate things on the wideband, and I would like to view the absolute full resolution for the UEGO, and have the potential of closed loop operation as well.

I realize most of this stuff is beginning to make sense, and each struggle I make everyday I am getting closer to an attempt of adjusting all the necessary settings I need before I proceed and start dialing in. I don't know what I was thinking trying to start the car without having the proper equipment prepared for this kind of operation.

Here is my remedy to what I will try and do tomorrow, will post more tomorrow with pics!!

http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/...ary/O2InputMod