Ok, so im new to HT and been searching for similar issue with my 89 CRX si, but had found similar situation, but not an exact solution. I had just bought this 89 CRX Si with a d16zc motor swapped, and had done quite a bit of work to get it running and smog ready. Now, my problem is that my car would start up fine cold or hot, but when you drive it for awhile it would start to stalls at a stop as though you had slight taken your feet off of the clutch. i would have to pump the gas peddle inorder for it to not die(sometimes pumping the gas peddle makes it dies). I had initially thought that it was because i was running out of gas(reason is because the gauge is really jumpy so sometimes it would be full and sometime it would be half full) so i put in $25 worth of gas and it ran for about 180 mile without having that problem. But what i notice is that when the tank is either half full(frm the gauge reading after driving for awhile), the problem occurs....(it would start right back up when it dies)..... so i had talked with some of my buddies and they said that it could be because the tank is over heating, or that the fuel lines are plugs. could it be the fuel pump? or the injectors? im a bit of a noob so has anyone had similar issue and what was the solution? Thanks a bunch in advance. . . .

 

ok so i visually checked everything and it seems to be alright. there's no CEL code. i checked the injectors with a stethoscope and one of the injector is clicking like crazy, the other three sounds fine.. so does that mean that one of my injector is bad? could this be the problem? does all of the injector have to go bad for the ecu to spit out a code? or can it just be one bad injector?

 

Read this thread fully and get back to us.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/car-dies-when-gas-goes-below-1-4-tank-help-searched-3024291/

I'm willing to bet this is your problem. Especially when you say the problem is fixed by having a full tank. The fix outlined in that thread is what worked for me and 5 other people without having to pay 300$ for an OEM pump hanger assembly.

 

Thanks alot, from the posting of everyone it seems alot similar to my issue, i'll go ahead and order the sock to see if that fixes my problem. ..

 

Be sure to check the little inch long rubber hose at the top of the fuel pump body itself inside the hanger. This can also get torn or have a hole in it and it's easy to replace if you have the tank down for the sock.

 

is there a thread somewhere on how to drop the tank and replace this part?

 

I can't find one by searching real quick, but it's fairly straight forward.

1. Either drain the gas or drive the car til it won't run anymore, this isn't necessary but makes it alot easier to balance when you're putting it back in.

2. Lift the car with two methods of support (of course) and two methods of stopping the car (Ebrake or leave in gear, AND wheelchocks)

3. Support the gas tank before you undo straps. I did this with a floor jack and some wood. Maintain the 2 methods of support

4. Loosen the strap bolts and lower the tank just enough to unbolt the lines.. Be prepared to deal with rust

5. Just lay the tank on the ground and go to town. I didn't unhook the giant hose on the tank but you might want to if you aren't feeling lucky. The fuel pump assembly is toward the rear left(?) of the car if you're in the car facing forward. Undo those little bolts holding the pump assembly and lift it out CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY. Observe the fact that your sock filter likely fell off/disintegrated/died.

6. Replace your parts. It's easy to replace the little hose and the sock filter. Just make sure you get the little circlip on the sock filter or it will fall off again. The little fuel hose MUST be fuel injection hose (expensive 8$ a foot hose).

7. Don't smoke and start reinstalling everything in reverse order.

8. Double check electrical connections and hoses before the final bolting of the tank straps. This saves a lot of effort and headaches.

I really don't have any pics, but it's easy to see and understand when you're under the car.

 

have you checked your tps voltage?

 

Thanks bro, i ordered the parts yesterday and it should be here in a couple of day, today i replaced my cluster(gas gauge works now) and filled it with a full tank of gas so it didn't give me that problem at all, i think this should be the solution. i'll just drive it until it's 1/4 of the way emty to see if problem returns..

@ Monstermax, tps? throttle position sensor? no i haven't. but i think it should be fine since the symptom is exactly as sumdewd described in his other thread.

 

I was gonna say the same thing. When I was doing my zc swap I had to drop the engine by myself and I was also having to line up the passenger side axle because I could never get the damn nut off so I did the swap with it in place but I had to crack the valve on the cherry picker to let it slowly start dropping while I held up the axle. When the engine would drop to far the throttle body would hit the firewall right at the tps and it cracked the housing and from time to time it comes loose and throws a code and then it runs like ***. It runs exactly as you describe. I would definitely look into it.

 

ok so now i have taken the tank down.. the sock still looks like it's in good shape.. should i still replace the sock? now im kinda stuck... below is the sock that came in the car.. looks different from the one i ordered..

 

so after replacement of the sock, i drove the car and now the tank is 1/4 filled, ran with no problem. im trying to run it until it gets to the empty marker, hopefully problem goes away. Thanks a bunch sumdewd for the help.. . .

 

Awesome. Glad to hear it. Mine goes to the middle of the red line and I usually fill for 10 gallons every time.

And to think, the only reason I stumbled upon this fix was because I was googling pictures of different strainers because my current ones didn't reach far enough. Then I found one that looked like the OEM strainer and ordered it lol

 

thanks..., well now i have a different dilema so i'll just bump this thread for help. the strainer did do the job for a bit, i was able to get to less than 1/8 of tank, but once my gauge gets around that it seems like car studders and no matter how much gas you give it, it wont accelerate as though im out of gas. so i filled it with a full tank, and was able to drive it for a bit then the same thing happened on the freeway, check engine light comes on and it's indicating a 1, seems like my o2 sensor. would my o2 sensor be causing this? studdering?... any suggestion?

 

How many gallons does it fill up for after it starts to do that? Remember that the gas gauge COULD be inaccurate.

 

It does it on a full tank of gas too... so that's the weird part. when it first started to happen i tried to run the gas down as much as possible, so when i filled up after that happened i was getting 10gal...the problem seem so intermitten, i might need to get another ECU just to check if it's an ECU issue also.

 

Replace your O2

 

Did that.. ok now it's weird, because once i shift down on a turn the car starts to bogg as though it's bottle neckin (happens when tank is 1/4 empty).. i had talked with the pervious owner and he said he had put in a 91 turbo eclipse fuel pump into this.. is that even compatible with the ecu? is that the culprit? he did a head rebuild and timing. he verifed that the TPS, map sensor and everything is suppose to be good. now the injectors and the dizzy is in question.... any inputs guys

 

Check the fuel filter canister under the hood on the firewall. Old car = old tank = sludge in tank= sludge in filter... Once you freed up flow from the tank all that gunk can now freely pump through the line clogging the filter. I couldn't even blow through mine when I got the car. Try blowing it out first, just be careful. If it's clogged bad it may build up some pressure and when it does clear it will be a mess. I would replace it even if that's the problem and you do get it cleared, but at least you'll know.


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ok i guess i should explain what i had done to it so far after i had replace the strainer(which fixed the half a tank stalling/bogging coming to a stop).... since then i replaced the o2,fuel filter,rechecked fuel pump, drained tank and flushed the tank and let it dried before installing.. but after this it still bogg while down shifting on a turn... i haven't yet blew out my fuel line, but when i took the filter out, there doesn't seem to be that much rust or cloggin...so since the pervious owner had mention that he took the fuel pump from a different car.. can that be the issue? i just didn't want to go all out and start changing major $$$ parts such as injectors and dizzy and so forth...

 

The only thing I can figure is that the fuel pump may be shorter than the OEM one and the strainer isn't getting down low enough to do its job. Other than that as long as it's pumping, it shouldn't matter. Unless maybe the internal resistance of the pump is different than OEM... Highly doubt it, but IDK.

 

Just thought of something... Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? You may have enough to keep it running but under a load it may be crapping out on you.

 

you know what i did notice that the fuel pressure regulator seems to be wet with fuel as though it was leaking.. i'll go ahead and check that and replace it.. to see it that fixes it.. thanks for the input..

 

alright i went into autozone talked with a manager there and he said that if my symptom was bottle necking while down shifting at a turn than it's not the regulator and suggested to check the pressure, so i loaned a fuel pressure kit from them. installed it onto my fuel filter and measured the pressure with the ignition in the ON state. it should read 35-36 PSI and so it does... turned on the Engine and it dropped like 3-10 PSI as how it should.. i guess that verified that my fuel pump is good....

 

Do you have a spare ecu lying around?