How is this sooo cheap?
Basically my oem tie rods are shot, and my stabilizer end link bushings are practically not there anymore. And for just the end links and tie rods was over $100. I found this COMPLETE front end overhaul kit on ebay for $100-$125
$125
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Contro...d159a6&vxp=mtr
$100 (appears to be the same product, for less, multiple accounts maybe?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...51e34b&vxp=mtr
I get they may not be the BEST quality money can buy, but the reviews and feedback they get is great, no bad feedback whatsoever on quality, and Im not building a race car, just a daily driver..
Will these parts fail on me and get all rusty or are they suitable replacements??
$125
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Contro...d159a6&vxp=mtr
$100 (appears to be the same product, for less, multiple accounts maybe?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...51e34b&vxp=mtr
I get they may not be the BEST quality money can buy, but the reviews and feedback they get is great, no bad feedback whatsoever on quality, and Im not building a race car, just a daily driver..
Will these parts fail on me and get all rusty or are they suitable replacements??
I have used these in the past and they are OK. One thing I don't like about some of these aftermarket parts is the fact that they sometimes use self-locking nuts instead of cotter pins like stock.
The only thing I would worry about is the quality of the lower ball joint, since they are probably the ones that take the most stress. See here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/lower...int/index.html
The only thing I would worry about is the quality of the lower ball joint, since they are probably the ones that take the most stress. See here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/lower...int/index.html
Also keep in mind that feedback is generally left right after installation, rather than 6 months down the road when **** starts to fall apart.
Not saying they will fall apart, just pointing out that feedback on quality really doesn't mean much.
Not saying they will fall apart, just pointing out that feedback on quality really doesn't mean much.
It was just nice to see 99.8% giving good reviews and the 5 bad ones of like 4000 was just about shipping, seen a lot of great quality comments etc
I get what youre saying though buddy
I get what youre saying though buddy
I've actually had a kit exactly like this for an entire year now without issues. Ebay parts are better than completely worn/broken/missing oem suspension parts. I did a new PIC bushing kit and generic shocks at the same time and the car drives like new. The only problem I thought I had with the ebay kit was a rack end bushing dying on me. I have done my rack end bushing 3 times already and the damn clunk comes back even on 2 separate steering racks.
Cliffs: Ebay kit is holding up just fine after 1 year. BUT THE PARTS CAME UNGREASED GREASE THE TIERODS AND BALLJOINTS BEFORE PUTTING THEM IN! MINE WERE ALL DRY INSIDE THE BOOTS!
Cliffs: Ebay kit is holding up just fine after 1 year. BUT THE PARTS CAME UNGREASED GREASE THE TIERODS AND BALLJOINTS BEFORE PUTTING THEM IN! MINE WERE ALL DRY INSIDE THE BOOTS!
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I had to manually take my boots off and grease them. If you don't, they surely will live up to the ebay name and fail. Probably the only reason mine are still good.
Lots of people talk smack on ebay items, sometimes for good reason, however metallurgy has come a long way since our cars were built, and it's easier to make high strength parts than it was 20 years ago. I would agree that the ball joint would be the most likely part to fail, possibly replace with oem. Having said that, i've had 0 problems with the actual products i've used from ebay, some name brand, some not, it's the companies that run the stores that get most the neg feedback, not the products. More often than not the products you get is stuff other companies use and rename. For example, i bought some npr pistons not long ago, honda uses npr stock, though it'll never say it, but that's who makes them. Why pay 800 for some new weisco slugs when you either don't make that much power or just don't have the money, npr's were 140 for the p29's with rings...i'll take chances on much of the stuff on the site, mainly comes down to how precise of a part it needs to be, and who/how it's made.
i'm a mechanic at a shop that specializes in hondas, so no, i would not be surprised. i've installed a lot of parts, both oem and aftermarket, and there is no comparison between low end aftermarket and real honda parts.
i won't argue the materials, but precision surfaces on cheap aftermarket parts don't have the same tolerences as oem. we have all kinds of problems with axles, ball joints, and bearings at work. the rubber on that stuff is also junk.
Save yourself the hassle of having to redo everything a year or two (at best) later. Been there, done that, had to redo it in all MOOG. Should have just spent the extra money from the get-go
Seriously, it won't last. It lasted a year on mine and that wasn't even much driving. I only put maybe 8k miles on it. The main problem is the rubber is about as cheap as it gets and cracks/flakes/breaks right apart after several months, thereby destroying the joints as it gets exposed.
As the guy said above the feedback left isnt done a year later, it's done immediately upon installation. I bet if you could ask all those people a year later if their feedback would be the same they'd sing a different tune.
As the guy said above the feedback left isnt done a year later, it's done immediately upon installation. I bet if you could ask all those people a year later if their feedback would be the same they'd sing a different tune.
Just do MOOG parts and not have to worry about it for 10 years.. I have seen some some of the stuff come off ebay.. We did an alignment on a durrango that a guy thought that this tie rod end was the best quality.. it was 2 inches shorter and the custome wanted it installed no matter what. Well he ended up with his steering wheel up side down and had to learn the hard way to not buy stuff off ebay.
If you actually looked at sites like www.hondaautomotiveparts.com you would find that sometimes cheaper than even MOOG for OEM...
My son bought a set just like that off eBay without my permission. Needless to say it only lasted around 10k miles of mainly driving on the highway to and from college. The upper and lower ball joints were TRASHED. It's your life, buy what you feel comfortable with.
My son bought a set just like that off eBay without my permission. Needless to say it only lasted around 10k miles of mainly driving on the highway to and from college. The upper and lower ball joints were TRASHED. It's your life, buy what you feel comfortable with.
like i said though, precision parts, probably no go for ebay items, if it's molded, pressed, stamped, and even in some cases i've seen very nice ebay company cnc work. just depends on the company, there's plenty of top notch parts on ebay too, just for cheap...walbro, npr, dc, supertech, list goes on are all very reputable companies that have stores on ebay that you can save a few bucks by using...free shipping is always awesome
all depends what you buy from ebay...i got parts from sealed power, runningstrongllc - which are some pretty nice replacement valves for 115 a set, cometic, npr....it's all good stuff for any motor, much less a dd...some things don't need to be so precise though, i used a complete seal/gasket set from x company...it's hard to mess up o-rings and gasket material, though i spent extra on cometic for peace of mind over a cheapo head gasket which im sure would have been ok for my motor...but i will be the first to agree that nobody should ever use cheap parts in high stress areas like the ball joints, axles, gears, valves, etc...by all means bash those parts to bits, but don't knock it just cause it came from ebay...would you feel more comfortable ordering a greddy turbo kit out of the magazines for 2k than paying 1700 with free shipping from ebay? i'll take a discount any day of the week, same parts, no matter where it comes from
for the record though, i would probably buy the lca's and tie rods from an independent company, it's easy to make a solid piece of metal strong, it's moving parts that they get wrong, and bushings/ball joints are cheap enough to not need to take a chance on
for the record though, i would probably buy the lca's and tie rods from an independent company, it's easy to make a solid piece of metal strong, it's moving parts that they get wrong, and bushings/ball joints are cheap enough to not need to take a chance on
Last edited by BigD4207; May 16, 2012 at 05:12 PM.



