Background:
99 Accord EX 5sp 210k miles
has burned oil for last 100k miles (not tons but some)

Just recently started throwing P0304 & 1399 codes
Also determined that coolant is disappearing

Cleaned EGR ports, replaced plugs & wires

Did a pressure test on cyl4 and it is about 50 compared to other 3 at around 150-170 (best I can remember).

Here is my question...I called and talked to the local Honda dealership and told them the symptoms...suggested I do the diagnostic pressure test $92 to determine if I had a bad head gasket.

He then said that if I do have a bad head gasket...that I should replace the engine with a used JDM ($3300 installed) instead of replacing the head gasket & having the head machined ($1900).

The reason he said to replace engine was because they can't 'guarantee' the engine will not smoke.

My question is this... If I replace the head gasket and get the head machined....what other kinds of problems might I introduce?

Any suggestions as to how I should proceed....both options are big money....but I would try to do the head gasket job myself. Looking for some guidance.

Thanks
KS

 

and how can he "guarantee" the quality/condition of the used JDM engine?

personally, if it was me, I'd do the head gasket myself to save on labor and find a machine shop to check the head and machine it if needed. would cost less than the quoted $1900 too.

but first you'll want to make sure that the problem is your head gasket and not something else.

 

I will seriously consider doing the job myself...depending on the level of difficulty and if I can determine that it IS the head gasket. I have tested the cylinder and it doesn't build up as much compression as the other cylinders....I realize that could be due to pistons/rings.

The dealership suggested their $92 diagnostic test with some colored dyes that react with exhaust gases. Can I do the same type of test ...or a similar test without having the get the car to the shop?

If it is the head gasket....I would expect the cost to do the head would be between $200 & $400 and the head gasket I would not expect more than $60. What other parts do I have to replace and how many SHOULD I replace "while I am in there"?

Thanks
KS

 

Dealerships are always going to charge you an arm and leg for labor. You can buy your own test online for less and do it yourself. I'm sure they come with instructions on how to use them. And if you still have doubts, there are always people who post videos on YouTube on how to use them. I say do it yourself.

 

Much easier and faster to find a good used engine with a guarantee and swap it in. Obviously when its out of the car install a new timing belt, water pump, oil pump, clutch if applicable.



Rebuilding an engine is a pain in the butt, requires specialty tools and waiting on the machine shop.

I have done 3 engine swaps on 3 different cars and all of them where done in less than a week.

 

If you have a local autozone they may have the tester in the loan a tool program (assuming that store stocks it). you'd probably have to buy your own fluid but that's like $10. loan a tool is free net cost after you return it. other parts stores may have similar deals.

 

Used engines may be guaranteed...but the labor to swap it in isn't. My luck would be such that I would swap it in and then there would be something wrong with the engine and I would have to pull it out and turn around and do the same job again.

What is the worst part about doing a head gasket? I found a machine shop that will do the head job for $225. What are the gotchas that I will need to consider.

Anyone want to add any additional items to this list?

Thanks
Keith

 

I would find a machine shop to rebuild your head then get the head gasket done else where. Theyll resurface the head, install new valve seals, hot tank it to remove all residue, and maybe a few other things. I wouldnt recommend you do it yourself, Im not sure about your tech background but there is a lot to remove and disconnect in an F22. If it was a Civic you can easily do it yourself since there isnt so many vacuum lines, connectors and much more room to work on. Get a few quotes from different shops for the labor, but get the head job done else where.

Dont replace the engine, just do the HG. I made the mistake of replacing an engine for about $800 installed when all it was, was a blown head gasket. The shop probably replaced the HG, and then sold the engine to someone else :/

 

 

Arthas -

Are you suggesting that I (myself) not attempt to remove the head, carry it to a machine shop, have them check it out, pressure test/mill it flat, and then myself put it back together?....or were you suggesting that I myself not try to recondition the head?

I know the head bolts are torqued to spec and that spec makes them hard to remove because of their torque requirement.

Other than items that I listed previously....what are some of the gotchas that I may not know about. It sounds like keeping up with where the vacuum lines go is something to pay special attention to.

Does the cam have to be removed during the replacement of the head gasket?

Thanks
KS

 

Unless you have a torque wrench, you NEED to take it to a shop for the install or you risk a leaky gasket again. Vacuum lines can be lebelled, most plugs only fit one plug, but without proper tools and knowledge you can destry a motor with a bad head job... I pulled the head on my 95 H22A1 after tagging EVERY hose and wire I took loose...but I had a shop install it to make sure it was proper.

 

lol "Head bolts are torqued down hard"

 

with the money you will save by doing the work yourself you can afford to buy a good torque wrench and still be well under the prices you were quoted for a shop to do the work.

Also, if you don't have one get a service manual, Helm Inc is a factory reprint and shows you step by step instructions for almost any job you'll need to do on your car. Helm Inc manuals cost but with the work you can do yourself, it more than pay for itself after just one or two jobs.