Bunch of questions after minor service at Dealer
My friend just got a minor service at the dealer, 2004 Acura TL with 70m and they gave him a long list of items that needed attention.
1) Moisture in brake fluid, change. Can this be done the usual way by adding new fluid and pumping brake pedal and opening bleeder screws?
2) Cabin filter, change. I've worked mostly on Mercedes and the cabin filter is awkward but basically routine, same here?
3) P/S fluid, change. Suck out old fluid from reservoir and replace with new fluid a few times?
4) Leaking oil pump seal ($1310!!!). They said they could see oil in a little depression where there shouldn't be any. Also suggesting timing belt to be done at the same time for additional $665 (parts).
I've read other threads that have suggestions for other repairs to be considered during the timing belt, including water pump, TB tensioner, plugs, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, valve adjustment, idler pulley.
Sounds like at least the WP, TB tensioner should be done at the same time. What should be his priorities here?
Thanks,
glenmore
1) Moisture in brake fluid, change. Can this be done the usual way by adding new fluid and pumping brake pedal and opening bleeder screws?
2) Cabin filter, change. I've worked mostly on Mercedes and the cabin filter is awkward but basically routine, same here?
3) P/S fluid, change. Suck out old fluid from reservoir and replace with new fluid a few times?
4) Leaking oil pump seal ($1310!!!). They said they could see oil in a little depression where there shouldn't be any. Also suggesting timing belt to be done at the same time for additional $665 (parts).
I've read other threads that have suggestions for other repairs to be considered during the timing belt, including water pump, TB tensioner, plugs, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, valve adjustment, idler pulley.
Sounds like at least the WP, TB tensioner should be done at the same time. What should be his priorities here?
Thanks,
glenmore
My friend just got a minor service at the dealer, 2004 Acura TL with 70m and they gave him a long list of items that needed attention.
1) Moisture in brake fluid, change. Can this be done the usual way by adding new fluid and pumping brake pedal and opening bleeder screws?
2) Cabin filter, change. I've worked mostly on Mercedes and the cabin filter is awkward but basically routine, same here?
3) P/S fluid, change. Suck out old fluid from reservoir and replace with new fluid a few times?
4) Leaking oil pump seal ($1310!!!). They said they could see oil in a little depression where there shouldn't be any. Also suggesting timing belt to be done at the same time for additional $665 (parts).
I've read other threads that have suggestions for other repairs to be considered during the timing belt, including water pump, TB tensioner, plugs, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, valve adjustment, idler pulley.
Sounds like at least the WP, TB tensioner should be done at the same time. What should be his priorities here?
Thanks,
glenmore
1) Moisture in brake fluid, change. Can this be done the usual way by adding new fluid and pumping brake pedal and opening bleeder screws?
2) Cabin filter, change. I've worked mostly on Mercedes and the cabin filter is awkward but basically routine, same here?
3) P/S fluid, change. Suck out old fluid from reservoir and replace with new fluid a few times?
4) Leaking oil pump seal ($1310!!!). They said they could see oil in a little depression where there shouldn't be any. Also suggesting timing belt to be done at the same time for additional $665 (parts).
I've read other threads that have suggestions for other repairs to be considered during the timing belt, including water pump, TB tensioner, plugs, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, valve adjustment, idler pulley.
Sounds like at least the WP, TB tensioner should be done at the same time. What should be his priorities here?
Thanks,
glenmore
As for the brake fluid, its going to get dark. if you/ the owner doesn't feel any brake fade, or issues with normal driving, you can hold off changing fluid. new fluid is a tan-ish light light brown/yellow. If its BLACK/SUPER DARK BROWN and you cannot really get light through it very well, then id change it. best to get a vacuum bleeder and drain the brake master. then yes, fill it back up and have someone sit there an pump up while another hits the bleeder screws all the way around.
The cabin filters is an easy one. take them out, (not a long process, im sure there is a write up or two out on the web) and check them. if they look bad, replace them. pretty cheap and easy job that can be done in less than ten minutes.
Correct on the Ps Fluid. Its going to be dark in there. The PS reservoir has a filter in the bottom of it. in extreme cases where the PS system was making hella noise, we would replace the fluid, reservoir and check the Orings at the pump. there are two, feed hose (on top, BLACK) and the return (to the res. on bottom RED)
70K miles on the car and its got an Oil Pump leaking? was this the original motor, or damage to the block? I never have seen or heard of such a thing. Now, that being said, the V-tec pressure switch, and the Two bolts on the back of the motor just above the oil filter have been known to have slight leaks. the bolts you can Honda Bond the threads and send them back in. (these are the Allen key/Hex head bolts) and if the pressure switch is leaking there is an o-ring you can replace and Honda Bond.
We here charge 399.99 for a belt job. Not every time did the auto tension need to be replaced but often they would leak fluid out. Plugs are Platinum so they should last about 100K which is when you should think about the timing belt. (7years-100K miles) Ive never seen a Honda OE belt snap because of age but i have seen some go over their time, and come out looking like they were ready to fall apart. Its something to get done for sure. Find someone that has knowledge about these motors, and is willing to do the job right if you plan on taking it outside of the dealer. (you pay for what you get)
Priorities list out like this:
Tbelt for sure. if you change that, id throw the outer belt on it too. no sense in throwing the old back on.
IF, and this might happen, it might not, If the auto tension is leaking BADLY then id replace it. if its got a little leak, throw her back in. Same with the idler pulleys. dont replace until they are making noise/causing vibrations. The Water pump is really your call. Once you're in there, its i think 6 bolts, and a few gallons of coolant. again, from what i have seen in my years, rarely was a OE honda water pump leaking. (Condition of motor IE over heating issues and other things may change your mind about it) Really though, Its a best to do that, because later on down the road, if it does leak on you, you've got to go through it all again and pay the same amount for the timing belt job where as you're just going to pay a little bit more labor and a bit more for the part.
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