hey guys, okay so about two days ago i pulled my transmission out of my 97 honda civic with a d16y7, and s40 manual trans. the input shaft bearing was bad which is why i am tearing it apart as well as the other bearing that sits in the transmission casing which i ordered today and comes tomorrow. right now i am in the process of removing the mainshaft and countershaft out so i can get to the input shaft at the base but i am stuck.

everything i have read and researched on before attempting this had all the same directions and orders of things and i have followed it word for word.

first i removed the reverse shift selector and than the reverse gear and shaft, set them aside, next on the clutch housing side i removed the interlock guide bolt, than i removed the shift arm bolt and washer which is located on the interlock guide bolt.

next the step was to grap the whole mainshaft and countershaft assembly and lift it straight up, of course some wiggling may be required from what ive seen and understand, but i have been trying for about an hour and it wont lift up, im out of ideas.

anyone ever had anything like this happen? or can give me any advice? did i miss a step? help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks for reading and any help you may give me! i have pictures if you guys want too of the whole process up to where im at now, just ask if you want to see them

 

slide shift arm away from the ring gear.....

 

the shift arm attaching to.the interlock? I did slide it as much.as.it went and.it.did seem looser but still.wouldn't lift out, ill have to try some more tomorrow. But by that you mean the shift arm on the interlock correct?

Thanks for reply also man, greatly appreciated

 

Try spinning the differential while you pull

 

I will have to try that too in the morning and let you know how it went again thanks.for reply, both of you!

 

okay i tried moving the shift arm and pulling up and it did seem even looser but i cant seem to completly get the shift arm out of the way of the gear sets to move it up, any advice? or does anyone have a picture of how it should look when its ready to be lifted up and out.

anything will help, thanks

 

Bump!

Anyone have anything that could help me out?

 

Normally I tape the input and countershafts as well as the shift forks together (just wrap electrical tape around the whole thing in a couple of different places) carefully pry between first gear and the case on both the input and counter shaft and the whole thing should more or less just pop right out as long as you removed the interlock guide bolt and the bolt on the shift shaft where the forks go.

 

i will give that a shot right now, thanks! yes i have removed both bolts.

what do you normally pry at it with? i just dont wanna hurt anything haha

 

Pry bars. I have one 16" - 18" UltraPro bar and a homemade bar made out of cold rolled round stock. Just remember to treat the gear teeth like glass, they chip very easily.

 

okay ill give that a shot right now and let you know how it goes, thanks!

 

it popped right out like nothing thanks man! really appreciate it, haha

in the process of replacing the isb now, this ones real bad :/ the bearings fit exactly the same but my new one doesnt have the plastic cage around the ***** like the old one, is that okay? did they just change the way they make them since the time this car was made?

 

nevermind i see now that its a metal casing vs a plastic cage for the *****.
now one more question,

for popping the isb out ive seen and read threads where people just use a 5'8 socket and a long extention and heat it up and smack it out, but im trying that and the socket completly goes through the whole from the clutch housing side and out the other side.

so how am i supposed to pop the bearing out this way?

 

Np man

All the ones I've been getting lately have a metal cage instead of the plastic one. It's fine as long as the dimensions of the bearing (inside/outside diameter and thickness) are the same.

Also check the top countershaft bearings, sometimes they go bad. And make sure the bottom countershaft bearing sits flush with the case, then stake it in place with a punch.

 

Take a prybar and put it through the hole in such a way that the curved end rests against the inner race. Hit the end of the prybar with a hammer, a few taps and they normally come right out (rotate the prybar between hits so it comes out straight) If the ISB is so bad that all that's left is the outer race, those are not fun to remove. The best way to get them out is to weld a piece across the outer race so you have something to hit from behind.

 

cool, yeah it is all the same sizes, just a different cage, so that should be good to go!

when i opened up the tranny the bearing in the case was toast too, so i did go back and get that one all the other bearings appear and seem to be fine though, they spin nice and quiet. and look in good condition!

 

the inner race is there still, thankfully, so ill go ahead and give that a shot! im sure thatll pop right out too! thanks again ill let you know how it goes!

putting it back together all seems pretty straight forward too after taking it apart, but any tips you could give me that youve learned when doing it? haha

im sure you can tell this is my first time inside a transmisson!

 

Take everything apart and clean everything extremely well. The shafts get full of debris from the broken bearing cage a lot of the time and can plug up oiling holes which leads to burnt bearings. You don't need a press or a bearing separator for a D-series, only a block of hardwood to get the gears and bearings off the shafts. A little extra time now will go a long way to making sure that transmission doesn't have to come apart for a long time. Inspect the gears and sleeves for wear too.

After about 3 they seem to get a lot easier.

 

after about 300.......you start getting too good and leave out the coutershaft clutch side bearing oil guide plate, AFTER you've staked in the CSB.

For driving out a ISB that hasn't come apart yet, 1/4" extension through the mainshaft opening works great. Myself I invested in the proper Snap-On puller, only Snap-On tool I own and it is worth it's weight in gold.

If the ISB comes apart, I fit 6-7 ***** into the outer race, plop in the inner race and spread out the *****, then the puller will work as intended.

We each have our own methods due to limits of tools on hand.

 

Definitely will clean it all up a bit as well as inspect everything. I appreciate both of your guys help and ill definitely be working on.this a lot tomorrow.

As for popping the isb out I will let you know what.method worked best!

I am hoping to get everything closed .up.and back on the car and running by Monday if not sooner. Again thanks for all your help guys! I'll let you know how stuff goes tomorrow.

 

One more thing, replace the seal under the ISB. They're only about $5 from Honda and they're pretty easy to damage when removing the ISB. Even if it looks ok you should replace it anyway.

 

yeah i did grab that as well when i bought the bearing! im gonna start working on it now! wish me luck.

ill report back with good news later hopefully.

 

i have been busy :/ just starting now. okay so quick question. the shift arm bolt and washer, are those supposed to go in and through a whole, or does it tighten into the shift arm itself?

 

The bolt threads into the round shaft IIRC.

 

Like there should be a hole for it to thread into? Or into the shaft itself?