Hey everybody, welcome to my build thread. I'm starting from scratch here, so I'll try to keep this updated as I make slow but (hopefully) steady progress on my project.

A couple of disclaimers though, so we're all on the same page together:

This is my first car, my first project, my first Honda and my first EF. I'm 18, and though I've grown up around cars and car projects, I really don't know that much and this project is serving as a learning process as well as a daily driver and a piece of personal satisfaction. I'm saying this because I will inevitably be asking some dumb questions and advice on rookie problems (where to find parts, what's called what, etc.), just a heads-up. I'll be doing my best to do as much of my own research as possible but I'm sure it'll come up. I'm just asking for help, not flame.

Secondly: I've spent some time going through the threads and forums and I've noticed that some people are super JDM fans and others are strong USDM supporters. I personally like elements from both sides and will be incorporating them into my build. I'll also just put random crap in there as I see fit. What I'm saying is, please don't waste my time telling me that my ride isn't JDM enough or that I'm on a bandwagon or something asinine like that. I'm not fanatically dedicated to using vintage/perfect OEM parts or tracking down a lot of super rare JDM pieces; I just don't care that much. I know what I like and what I don't. Feel free to share your personal opinion on anything, but please just keep this in mind.

Okay? Cool.

Now that I'm done being patronizing, it's PIC/INFO TIME. AW YEAH.



There she is. 1990 Si hatchback, with 226K on the chassis. Pretty much bone stock so far.

Modifications thus far:
D15b2 swapped in by previous owner (some 70-80K on it)
K&N intake filter kit
Some no-name muffler (sounds nice and growly in the 1200-3000RPM range)
Integra DA (I believe) steelies with 195/60R14 Uniroyal Touring Trak rubber
Old vinyl 3A racing seats that I fabbed brackets for and popped in.









So by now you're probably wondering where I'm intending on going with this, yes? As the title implies, I'm going for a OEM+ build with a nice aggressive stance but is practical and comfortable for daily driving around Denver's craptastic roads (Hence the "practi-stance". See what I did there? BAM). By this I mean I want it lowered but not slammed, per se, and clean both inside and out. I may completely slam it somewhere down the road but I don't see it happening soon.

Done:

• Re-upholstered stock Si front seats
• K&N intake kit
• GSR center console/armrest swap
• Crap-ton of small repairs (axles/bearings/bushings/tune-up/etc.) courtesy of family mechanic
• 88-89 style front bumper swap
• Volvo front lip

To Do:


Interior:

• Nardi Classic steering wheel w/ NRG qr setup
• Re-upholster headliner/visors/armrest
• Cover/re-upholster back seats
• Wooden cargo floorboard
• Floormats

Suspension:

• Tokico Premium Performance w/ GC coilovers
• Hard rubber bushing kit (Suja/P1)
• Blackworks Racing LCAs
• Tanabe Sustec sway bars

Exterior/Body:

• Sideskirts/Mudflaps (pref. from Wagovan)
• Fill/pop dents, repair rust spots, etc.
• Repaint (either Champ White or YR-88 Almond Cream)
• Chargespeed/J's rear wing (probably replica)
• Shave rear end/front bumper
• Window tint
• Fender roll, full flush
• New OEM moldings

Alright, let me have it; what do you guys think? Feedback is appreciated, just be reasonable. Everything in the big-picture list is mostly guesswork and ideas, but they're all individual bits and bobs that I find attractive, and in my mind's eye I can see it coming together as a good whole. I've done enough research and homework to form my own opinions about the look I'm shooting for. The list is also there for my own posterity, so in a few months (or years because I'm poor as crap) I can look back and see what's changed and what hasn't. If you have any questions, shoot!

 

Looks like a great car. Its getting harder and harder to find a SI . Looks great and good luck with the build. Just take things slow and do lots of research before buying anything. Think about what you want to end up with and go for it. Good luck

 

Thanks man! That is all exactly what I intend to do with it. Take it slow, research as much as possible, and shoot for the dream.

 

niceeee, clean looking si

 

looks like you have some legit plans man i'm looking forward to this build. for the kind of roads you're talking about i'd say just get some decent shocks and some lowering springs. kyb agx's are nice because they have external dampener adjustments, along with some like megan racing springs or sprint or h&r so you get a drop but a daily drop, and it's an even drop

 

Nice find. I like the practi-stance idea, too. It sounds far more functional than the lower-is-better builds.

 

I'm hoping it's a mpfi d15b2? Why would anyone want to swap in a d15?!? Anyways...there's a few pretty good motors to swap for decently cheap and get awesome gas mileage...my dohc zc averaged around 36 mpg in my 91 lx 4dr auto trans. there's also the vtec zc, z6, etc. but the zc's are some of the more powerful yet still very fuel effecient (under 5-6k rpm lol) or if you really want it to be an "oem+" then swap back in a d16a6..all swap right in, but the problem now is all these jdm motors have been sitting a long time and things tend to go bad so expect at least $100-200 part budget if you go that route, you'd def. need ecu ($50-100), probably tps, wires, plugs, fluids, etc. In all i spent around 1600 for the zc swap - 1200 zc + shipped, 200 dizzy, 90 ecu, and the usual new fluids/tune up parts (factory stock 120ish hp). Just my .02 on that matter

+1 on megan springs, i got to ride in a megan equipped crx (exhaust, coilovers, control arms, and i believe strut braces). rode pretty damn nice, surprisingly comfy for stiffer springs, right/new bushings helped i'm sure.

Best advice i think anyone could give is plan for everything several steps ahead...if you get this will it work for that down the road without spending more cash. For example if you want to upgrade the brakes down the road, especially to a big brake kit, then will the wheels you want work with that? With all that suspension upgrading, brakes while not completely necessary for a dd, it might be something you think about later just to make it complete.

Best of luck to your build, look forward to seeing where it goes. Just take your time with everything go slow and be sure of what you are doing. Nothing is more depressing than to do countless hours of work for one little thing to blow it all to hell (i've been there, still kinda am lol). Research and careful planning is just as important as doing the work the right way.

 

Thanks man, I'm looking forward to it too. The roads aren't completely *awful*, but there are plenty of potholes and weird driveways in my neighborhood, so I need it to be functional. I'll definitely look into the KYBs and the Megans. I've heard good things about both, I just put down the Koni/GC setup as an ideal, as it seems to be unanimously lauded as a great setup for any kind of driving. Just curious, what do you mean by a "daily/even" drop? I've seen a lot of lowering springs that drop about 2.25'', but I'm looking for another inch or so. Adjustable coilovers would be ideal.


That's the general idea. Form=Function in this case, hopefully. I mean, I totally dig the lower=better approach and think that it looks dope as ****, but I personally need something a little more practical. So I'm kinda shooting for something that's the best of both worlds...?


The D15 is a DPFI. I know because when it was throwing a cel, I had to figure out the ODB-0 codes. It really doesn't seem to make a large difference; I think the guy swapped it in because it was probably super cheap and the original motor was shot. I'm looking at the vtec z6 swap because it'll have the getupandgo when I need it and keep the mpg respectable. And honestly, the difference between the zc and the z6 is nominal at best; when it comes down to it, I'll probably be decided based on cost of the motor. I generally don't stray above 2500RPM when I'm driving city. My estimated budget so far covers a complete overhaul of the engine, as a worst-case scenario. So I'm planning on shelling out for the swap, rebuild process (machining the block/head+internals), and parts (tps/ecu/wires/plugs/fluids/etc). I'm counting on using craigslist for the swap, since I've seen some really good deals on there, but I'm keeping a mail-order option open as a last resort. I appreciate the .02

Thanks for the +1, I'll definitely start researching the Megans.

Brakes.... Somewhere down the line I'm thinking about doing an Integra/CRX rear-disc conversion, and simultaneously upgrading to drilled/slotted rotors and better pads. Beyond that, I don't have any major plans, like a big-brake kit. It doesn't matter that much to me to drop that kind of money for an item meant specifically for racing when I'm not going to track or race my car, ever. Also, I don't want to have to pick wheels just because of my brakes. I'm looking at XXR 513s and I don't think they could clear a BBK in the first place. As long as the brakes work well and are safe, I'm not looking for any real performance upgrades. I definitely agree that it would complete it, especially for safety's sake with the upgraded suspension.

I'm 100% with you. My three main rules for the build are as follows:
1) It pays to invest in quality.
2) Plan everything carefully, leave no stone untouched.
3) Do everything myself unless I have no other option but to take it somewhere.


Thanks, everybody, for all the support. It means the world to me, and I'm definitely psyched to really start working on her. I'll keep you all posted.

 

Here's some interior shots I snapped today.









It's a bit of a mess and I need to clean up a bit. Also, I'm gonna go look at some upholstery options for getting the stock seats redone.

 

Ewww, from mpfi to dp? I know it's not your fault though lol. Maybe not a huge difference, but probably 3-5 mpg or so and a bit of power. From what i've read that you plan, overall efficiency is the goal correct? Honestly, a mpfi swap and simple upgrades gets you the power of other motors with generally better fuel mileage. Just something to ponder on.
Not necessarily....i personally don't care much for vtec motors, it may improve top end power band but does nothing for torque, which in the real world, supersedes hp, especially since you mentioned average 2500 rpm range normally...the vtec really wont do you any good unless you want to go fast. Not really suited for economy because there are other engines that get as good or better mileage, and if you plan building, a non vtec motor potentially would have better torque curves with the same upgrades. Example - i had a 95 prelude h23 non vtec 160 hp 160 ft/lbs, the h22 makes 190hp and 163 ft/lbs or something along those lines. I'm not an expert on motors, but most motors with variable valve timing eats more gas than a non variable would at high rpm with the same base cam profile, yeah you trade mpg for power, but just from what i've read that's not really what you said you wanted. And for the zc, yeah i love it, it's not for everyone, but i believe it makes more torque than any other d series and it's old school original equipment on ef's. Not trying to sway you, really i'm not, but to me it's the best mix of mpg and hp/tq. Factory fresh it takes a b16 to beat it for speed, and the motor you have is more fuel efficient. I got around 40 mpg with my b2, get bout 36 now, plus around 30 hp in a direct swap motor.

Sounds like you've done some homework though i'll give you that, just consider what vtec really is, a mileage killer, only good in high rpms, why have it and not use it? Use it, and break the bank on gas money. It's an endless cycle lol. If you want amazing mpg, i would suggest keeping the b2 and going mpfi with it. Should see 40+ if it's a decent motor.

 

Thanks a lot for the input man. Fuel efficiency is a big part but I'd also like a horsepower upgrade to boot. I'm not obsessed with getting 40 mpg, but if I can still average mid-30s and have a little more power under the hood, I'd be happy with it. I'll definitely consider a MPFI swap for the engine.

Thanks also for the insight on the VTEC swap. You are quite correct in a lot of ways. I guess I wasn't thinking perfectly straight when I was envisioning it. VTEC only engages at high rpms and I normally don't hit that kind of speed unless I'm on the freeway at 3am. I suppose an a6 or zc swap would be one of the best options for the kind of power/economy balance I'm seeking. Is it comparable to both the a6 and the zc? You're also right about torque being more important, especially in terms of "get up and go". In that regard, I suppose it would be more worthwhile to seek a SOHC engine, as they generally produce more torque? I would stick with the b2 but I'd just like a little more power.

Thanks again for all the advice, I really do appreciate it.

 

I got bad news, my man. You bought a faux Si if it has a D15B2 and DPFI.

 

Twin ? Lol

 

Wish I woulda found an si! Looks pretty good. My co-worker has an si with a b16a in it and its low! Mine is in the process of b18a1 replacement right now. Oh and I'm in Colorado too!

 

Yeah no prob...vtec while nice to have in the right situations, is a b**** on mpg..as far as sohc having more torque, not really, but in some cases yes. However like i said as far as i know the zc has more torque than any other d series, in which only a d series will drop right in thus this is why i have a zc, just made more sense and still gets awesome mpg while adding that 30hp over the stock motor, which imo, is a pretty peppy little thing for what it is.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_D_engine

Look here and compare z6 a6 zc...which to look again the z6 does have same torque as zc but it's vtec. But in theory the zc would be better all around at low-mid rpm range. Vtec kills torque curve.

 

I never said it was OEM perfect or original. It was a craigslist buy, and I knew it had a d15 swap going in. The guy selling it said the owner before him swapped in the motor because the original engine blew. Regardless, it's getting a non-OEM engine and a bunch of parts, so even if it was faux, I could really care less.

LAWL. She's a beauty, man, nice work. Once I put a 88-89 front end on mine, they'll look a lot more alike. How do you get away with the painted lights?

Pics! Let me know if you're gonna hit up any meets in the area, I'd be psyched to tag along.


As far as I know, SOHC engines generally produce more torque than their DOHC counterparts (the closest equivalents), because the lack of a second cam means less moving parts within the engine and therefore less loss of force, resulting in slightly more torque. The difference usually isn't much, but with the right upgrades you can drastically emphasize the torque-power ratio. You're right about the D series dropping right in, and that's one of the biggest reasons I'm vying for a D engine, so I don't have to troubleshoot a B series swap. You've made your point on the zc quite clear, and I've done enough research to believe you. There's no need to beat that horse anymore, no offense. I've also been using that particular wikipedia page as a springboard for all of my engine research, but thanks for the offer.

 

Also, to keep everyone updated:

Got a quote for re-upholstery. Looks like about $285 per front seat, which means it's gonna be about 3-4 weeks for me to get the driver seat done, as I have bills to pay before I can drop it on the seat.

Also, went to the junkyard and picked up a taillight center garnish. I'm thinking of painting it black and repainting the filler panels on the body back to the OEM white. I'll keep the old garnish, just in case I don't like the black.

Going to the hardware store tomorrow to find supplies to convert the shift ****. We'll see how it goes.

As for suspension, I've decided to stick with Ground Control coilover sleeves, as they have a better warranty, and I can hand-pick the spring rates to suit the setup. I haven't decided 100% on shocks/struts yet, but I'm thinking about getting Koni STRs (the orange shocks) as opposed to the Sports (yellows), mainly for the price difference. Does anyone know if there's a definite ride quality difference between the two, and if I should get top-hats to keep the shocks from over-dampening? Again, I only want to drop about 2-3'', and I'm thinking of getting spring rates of 500F/400R to compensate. Advice?

 

LOL plan on doing the same upgrades to my Si. A DD build with a little something to have some fun every now and then

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

 

She's looking fiiiiiiine, dude. Good luck with your build, and those 'blades are clean, too.

 

Damn another twin ? Lol just got a new shoes ,

 

So I guess I should get some more updates up before I get thread-jacked by twins of my car

Got some OEM mudflaps on the front. The rear ones that I found at the junkyard were shot, so I'm gonna order up some brand new ones from egay as well as some JDM clear corner lights. (SIDE NOTE: Does anyone know how to uninstall the stock corner lights? Also, will sedan corner lights fit on a hb, or are they a different shape? They look really really close but I can't be 100% sure about it. Thanks guys.)



And now for a ballsy side-project, because I was slightly bored and looking for a way to clean up the front end a bit. I debadged the hood, wet-sanded down all the little spots of surface rust, then primed and painted. When the masking came off I realized that I had just applied an OEM-white bra to the hood. It doesn't look awful, just not as seamless as I was hoping for. In a couple days I'll wet-sand it with 1000 grit and try to polish it as much as possible to try and match the finish on the rest of the car. We'll see how it goes; if anything, I'll have learned a couple of valuable lessons in bodyworking. Wish me luck and grant me any advice you guys have.


Wet-sanded and debadged. Yes, I'm doing this whole paint job out in the alley behind my garage, on a slightly breezy day inviting all manner of bugs, dirt, dog hair (don't ask) and other random crap to get in my paint.


Rattlecan, like a BAU5. Someday I'll get a real paint gun, promise.


Prepped and masked, ready for primer.


After 2 or 3 coats of primer, just after a little wet-sanding to even it out.


After 2 coats of white, and about 2-3 coats of clear. Looking good until...


...the masking comes off and I see this clean white bra I've just put on. Dafuq? Oh well, I guess it'll do till I get it done professionally. But hey, with the filler piece and nose painted, it certainly looks a lot cleaner, visually. I like it, especially as it's just temporary. Whatevs.

Okay, so I know I said I didn't give a rat's about anyone's opinion, but I'm looking to a little poll here on an idea I had for her ***. I nabbed a pretty good-condition taillight center garnish at the boneyard. What I'm thinking is this: strip the "Civic" sticker, paint it white, then get a black vinyl decal in the same design as the OEM "Civic" sticker applied to the center of the garnish, and put it on. Thinking about it, I think it would clean up the rear end a bit and get rid of that weird red band across the back (I've never liked the way it looks). Do you think it would look good, or at least be worth putting a good $50 -at least- into it?

Thanks for following, as always.

 

For the Center taillight piece:

Clean it up.. Don't paint it.. Strip it if the letters are too "rough"...


Decent progress so far.. Any paint that comes out of a can isn't gonna be as good as professionally spraying a car.. But props for atleast cleaning the car up.

A factory looking car with the right stance, wheels and a good amount of cleanliness goes a long way on these old cars..

 

Yeah, you'll have to paint the whole hood if you want it to look uniform. Here's to learning experiences. Cool EF, regardless!

 

You don't have to paint the whole thing, you just gotta feather the edges into eachother, think of it like fading into the old paint, just a quick and light coat, lighter the closer it is to the old paint, and it'll feather the colors together, not perfect, but gets rid of those masking lines.

 

Thanks, I think I'll do that. Since I have an extra one, I'm gonna experiment with it and see what shenanigans I can work with it.

For sure, cleaning it up is surprisingly simple and rattlecan will sure do the trick for now. I dunno how "factory" it'll look when it's lowered/painted/wheeled/etc. but you do make a good point sir.


For sure. I actually don't mind the look of the pseudo-bra that much. It's a little off-putting, but it's not awful. Thanks bro!


I definitely considered doing that. I think with 1,000-grit paper and a little elbow grease I should be able to even it out pretty well, but feathering might help me sell it better. The thing about those masking lines is that they're pretty well-defined (i.e. sticking out pretty well) so it might take a lot of work to get it flush to the paint. What I would give for a buffer right now... Thanks for the tip though, man.