I'm looking at trading my spare family hauler for a '90 model sedan thats got a B18c motor/tranny swap. Going to check it out this weekend. Anything I should look for in particular and how does this description sound?

Wire tuck, CAI, 4,2,1 headers, straight pipe, N1 high flow exhaust tip
Aftermarket intake manifold
Great clutch, all gears shift smooth and no grinds, short shifter, weighted shift ****
Coil overs in front, drop springs in back, front skunk2 camber kit, rear sway bar
Front bumper lip, All 4 mudflaps
Battery relocated to trunk
Bbs rz old school wheels with caps and spacers
Window shades
push start, Alarm with remote
recent brakes
10k hid lights low beam
Yellow high beam

Clean title, body is straight, no wrecks/rust, and interior looks nice and stock

Whats this thing worth if it checks out?

 

Id say about 3500 tops

If I were you id compression test it

 

Thanks King, if I decide to pull the trigger I'll do a quick comp check before sealing the deal. Its been 12+ years since I was doing anything with Honda's but I should know when I drive it if anything is up.

My experience has been with eg and ek cars running B16/B18, thats what everyone was doing in the late 90's. Nobody was doing any big mods to the ef's back then, I'm really excited to see how 2,200# with a B18c feels, should be fairly quick.

 

Yeah man things have.changed a lot in the "scene"

I wouldn't trust just the feeling of the car now I personally need facts

But good luck keep me posted

 

I'd check the status of the wires he tucked, make sure if he extended ANY wires he used a soldering iron, not just spliced with electrical tape,

and for the price I'd try to stay around $3000

 

Wire tuck is a red flag IMO

check everything before you drop money on it...don't just drive it. if the seller has a problem with you going over the car thoroughly, then pass on it

 

Great advice here

 

Will do guys, thanks!
He claims to be able to get mileage in the high 30's, near 40, on the highway, is that feasible for this type of set-up?

I've got an extensive background with BMW's, owned like 8 of them and worked on a BMW pro racing team for 4-5 years, but the older Honda is new to me. I'll check the obvious stuff as far as the "tuck" is concerned, looking for the connections if he extended anything. He is asking $4,500 for it but I'll be trading him a 2006 Mazda5 for it. I have no interest in the Mazda, wife is getting a new van that I'll be trading my 2010 Fit sport in for, and I just want a fun to drive daily car I can haul my kids and/or mountain bike stuff on until I buy another car next year.

 

4500 seems high

If you don't drive like a mad man iv seen 35mpg bseries cars

 

I'm able to get high 30's out of my Fit, if I drive it like that I should get good numbers out of it for commute.

 

You can always.swap a ls trans in for better mpgs

 

$4500 is high. i paid $3500 for my sedan and it came with a B18c1 also and ITR trans. but location can affect pricing. still, that's a lot.

regarding gas mileage, i get mid 30's with my turbo set-up

 

Meeting him today at 2, see how it goes.

 

Goood luck braah

 

OK, just got back, seemingly solid car, drove nice, engine felt great. CEL was on, but it also was running straigh pipes with 4/2/1 headed so its likely the O2 sensor.
Car itself looks good considering its 22 years old, interior looks nice, hole in the driver seat but otherwise nice, manual windows and no sunroof, so about as light as one of these will get.
The car is low, low, low, I was stepping down into it, the clutch felt strong but grabs quick and low, obviously aftermarket clutch. Its a B18c1 and tranny from a GSR, long tube intake, spoon valve cover, decent looking engine bay.
Body has some minor dings, and some of the black trim is a little oxidized, but from 20 feet it looks great, especially with the BBS rz's, has the correct center caps and the tool to remove and install the cap.
Oh, and there is armstrong power steering, its been removed and felt weird as I haven't driven a car without power steering in a while.

The car was fun, a quick sled, low to the ground combined with the lack of power steering, short throw shifter, and the clutch honestl felt like I was driving around in one of the old E46 BMW World Challenge 3 series cars I used to work on back in the 04-06 race season.

I can get his car plus $1k for my 111k mile 2006 Mazda5 with a CEL and needing shocks all around, sound fair?

 

 

Did he drill the plate into the.bumper

Id ask for.1500

 

don't think i would have guessed on what the cel was...but that's just me. probably could have talked im down to under $4k

how funny is that...cars looks almost identical to mine when i bought it




now same Miata wheels

 

Crazy, if you'd told me it was the same car I'd believe you.
I'm not going to be buying it but all I have is a trade, he is willing to trade for my extra family vehicle, I can't be too picky, if I can get his car and $1k for the Mazda I'll be happy, my wife is getting the title out of the safety deposit box in the morning when the bank opens and unless someone offers to buy the Mazda for $5k from her craigslist add by tomorrow then I'm picking it up I think.

Any way to id the CEL for sure or does the ef require a code reader?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-do-you-check-what-cel-you-have-obd1-ef-2887758/

 

If he.is running it.obd0 you.can check.it right under the.pass side carpet

Obd1 you will need to follow these

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/ link

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2887758