my true street build.
After building a few 9s FWD VW at my other shop in Canada, i move to Florida and looking a good Fabricator, Called O&J performance and Gato Performance and we made the game plan and they have done great work so far.. coming to the track soon.
Motor is 2.0 20v fully built same motor i ran 9.1 164mph with custom dogbox, DSS stg5 CM twin etc etc


PAR Dogbox



custom light weight rear beam powdercoated saves 26lbs










Motor is 2.0 20v fully built same motor i ran 9.1 164mph with custom dogbox, DSS stg5 CM twin etc etc


PAR Dogbox



custom light weight rear beam powdercoated saves 26lbs










Thanks ive been a VW guys my whole life and only want to go fast in a FWD VW. here is a pic of my last set up, we battled a few issues but still got 9.5 155mph
Trending Topics
great news again 10 min ago

This car will run Standalone, We did extremely well with the stock ECU and until i run faster then 9.1 164mph no one can say that VW stock ECU can't go fast.
But there were a few things that we needed that the Stock ECU would not and true street is very competitive and we need to find every little bit of speed out of the car.

This car will run Standalone, We did extremely well with the stock ECU and until i run faster then 9.1 164mph no one can say that VW stock ECU can't go fast.
But there were a few things that we needed that the Stock ECU would not and true street is very competitive and we need to find every little bit of speed out of the car.
congrats its a really nice setup i saw this car at gato's shop i like the roll cage and the turbo kit it looks sick!! i sent this morning the NHRA inspector for your chassis . so its a true street nice one day im going to see u in the line cause we race true street also . good luck . Ti-tec.
im talking to OGS right now.. been going back and forth with pics but still no answer.
There is NO reason why this should not be legal, it only help reliability, it will not make the car faster in anyway, plus this is a VW we have no billet bellhousing option so things like this is needed to help keep bellhousing together, wich i have broken over 8 in one season..
Tell me one good reason why this is a problem... cuz im the only one running one??
There is NO reason why this should not be legal, it only help reliability, it will not make the car faster in anyway, plus this is a VW we have no billet bellhousing option so things like this is needed to help keep bellhousing together, wich i have broken over 8 in one season..
Tell me one good reason why this is a problem... cuz im the only one running one??
im talking to OGS right now.. been going back and forth with pics but still no answer.
There is NO reason why this should not be legal, it only help reliability, it will not make the car faster in anyway, plus this is a VW we have no billet bellhousing option so things like this is needed to help keep bellhousing together, wich i have broken over 8 in one season..
Tell me one good reason why this is a problem... cuz im the only one running one??
There is NO reason why this should not be legal, it only help reliability, it will not make the car faster in anyway, plus this is a VW we have no billet bellhousing option so things like this is needed to help keep bellhousing together, wich i have broken over 8 in one season..
Tell me one good reason why this is a problem... cuz im the only one running one??
Marc,
Looks good, motor plate looks great too.
Historically motor plates were not allowed in the class, neither sfwd/true street or outlaw street.
As a person who worked on "millers car" for several years he did not have a motor plate.
His plate bolted to the bottom of the bellhousing, only two bolts. The bellhousing did not require milling to allow proper spacing for the motor plate.
That was because it did not bolt around all the bolts or sandwich inbetween the block/transmission, simply a lower mount brace.
So his theoretically was not a "motor plate" like domestics or HR cars use.
I agree that its a stupid rule and will be using a mk3 rear mount on my car, but we dont make the rules unfortunately, and im sure someone who sees the pics will protest you. Just like How I told jan that he had to put his fuel tank in the back of the car, not in front of the front tire.
I also do not understand why you think that the motor plate will keep the bellhousing from splitting at the ring/pinion/input shaft areas? Going from a 26/28" tire on your previous cars I would be hard pressed to think that you would continue to split bell housings on a small tire.
Good luck with the build, and hope to see you up north soon.
-Ed
Looks good, motor plate looks great too.
Historically motor plates were not allowed in the class, neither sfwd/true street or outlaw street.
As a person who worked on "millers car" for several years he did not have a motor plate.
His plate bolted to the bottom of the bellhousing, only two bolts. The bellhousing did not require milling to allow proper spacing for the motor plate.
That was because it did not bolt around all the bolts or sandwich inbetween the block/transmission, simply a lower mount brace.
So his theoretically was not a "motor plate" like domestics or HR cars use.
I agree that its a stupid rule and will be using a mk3 rear mount on my car, but we dont make the rules unfortunately, and im sure someone who sees the pics will protest you. Just like How I told jan that he had to put his fuel tank in the back of the car, not in front of the front tire.
I also do not understand why you think that the motor plate will keep the bellhousing from splitting at the ring/pinion/input shaft areas? Going from a 26/28" tire on your previous cars I would be hard pressed to think that you would continue to split bell housings on a small tire.
Good luck with the build, and hope to see you up north soon.
-Ed
thanks Ed yes i will come up north this year.
I know i read in 2006 when NHRa was involve with FWD it was a problem. Now they are not involve and i do not see in NSCRA IREV WCF anywere saying it is not allowed..
was stupid back then to not allow it, now is the time to open up the rules if someone feels the need to try something that will in no way affect speed ET.
Releving stress on bellhousing with this plate will help. the 24.5" will help alot also.
I know i read in 2006 when NHRa was involve with FWD it was a problem. Now they are not involve and i do not see in NSCRA IREV WCF anywere saying it is not allowed..
was stupid back then to not allow it, now is the time to open up the rules if someone feels the need to try something that will in no way affect speed ET.
Releving stress on bellhousing with this plate will help. the 24.5" will help alot also.
The rule books have not really allowed much variance for things like this since nhra pulling out of sport compact fwd.
The issues that arise are the rules that are not copy/paste "re posted" each year when the rule book for each event series conveniently shows up 60 days before the event...There are things left out that many have used to there advantage.
The etown/ogs rule was there for engine plate - prohibited.
But if OGS and other bodies are saying its a go, post up the emails and let everyone know.
If you look at outlaw cars from 2008 and outlaw cars from last year, you will see a natural progression from one to the other, clear cut rules that were simply overlooked to field a class. Non legal fuel tank placement, tubbing the front end out, removing sheet metal, spindle mount wheels with holes drilled and nut/bolt for the look of a lug bolt, custom compressor wheels for a select few that no one else can buy, previously inaccurate fuel sampling equipment allowing cars to run </=98% ethanol content slip through undetected etc, etc, etc.
Now if you start running 8.8-9.0 and someone sees it you will get bitched at, but I have a feeling that eventually they will be more stern on the rules once there is 30-40 cars coming out for a 16 car field.
I saw you posted that you are running a bfi mount with delrin insert, are you not concerned with the mount being able to flex but the plate not being able to flex? If your going solid, go solid everywhere. I am not sure that the motor plate being between the engine and trans will help rigidity much, unless you are using additional bolts or welding it onto the case, bolting all of the bolts into the cast iron block is going to be rigid, putting them through a cast alu case through a 6061 t6 plate then into the cast iron block may not change anything.
But im not here to clutter your thread, just an observation. Also close the rain tray holes up for the factory wire harness connectors, because the rule that seemed to "go away" was the rule against modifying the firewall, cutting the rain tray out etc.
The issues that arise are the rules that are not copy/paste "re posted" each year when the rule book for each event series conveniently shows up 60 days before the event...There are things left out that many have used to there advantage.
The etown/ogs rule was there for engine plate - prohibited.
But if OGS and other bodies are saying its a go, post up the emails and let everyone know.
If you look at outlaw cars from 2008 and outlaw cars from last year, you will see a natural progression from one to the other, clear cut rules that were simply overlooked to field a class. Non legal fuel tank placement, tubbing the front end out, removing sheet metal, spindle mount wheels with holes drilled and nut/bolt for the look of a lug bolt, custom compressor wheels for a select few that no one else can buy, previously inaccurate fuel sampling equipment allowing cars to run </=98% ethanol content slip through undetected etc, etc, etc.
Now if you start running 8.8-9.0 and someone sees it you will get bitched at, but I have a feeling that eventually they will be more stern on the rules once there is 30-40 cars coming out for a 16 car field.
I saw you posted that you are running a bfi mount with delrin insert, are you not concerned with the mount being able to flex but the plate not being able to flex? If your going solid, go solid everywhere. I am not sure that the motor plate being between the engine and trans will help rigidity much, unless you are using additional bolts or welding it onto the case, bolting all of the bolts into the cast iron block is going to be rigid, putting them through a cast alu case through a 6061 t6 plate then into the cast iron block may not change anything.
But im not here to clutter your thread, just an observation. Also close the rain tray holes up for the factory wire harness connectors, because the rule that seemed to "go away" was the rule against modifying the firewall, cutting the rain tray out etc.
i ran many times with just delrin mounts and front plate no dogbone zero problem, these delrin are solid, not too worried about that.
firewall will be fine.
all k20 h22 swap in EG should be banned as well since the factory mounts needed to get rewelded.. so small mod to firewall should will not matter
firewall will be fine.
all k20 h22 swap in EG should be banned as well since the factory mounts needed to get rewelded.. so small mod to firewall should will not matter


