Over the weekend me and my dad who's replaced a couple clutch in his time (never a Honda, Toyota's, GM) will be replacing mine, and I was wondering if anyone can give me some words of wisdom tricks and things to look out for. and a good manual (I own a Haynes at the moment) Oh yea and a really dumb question... Is this a rear wheel drive car lol. It's an Lx.

 

its FWD and and if hes done a clucth before he should have problem doing it

 

Trail fit the alignment tool into the pilot bearing to make sure the tool supplied with your clutch set is the correct one.
It should fit snug.
I've bought clutch sets with the wrong one in the past.

 

Alright thanks that makes me feel a bit better. Do you know any good repair books other than haynes.

 

Haynes and Chilton manuals suck. Try Googling "accord service manual pdf"

 

Thanks, I haven't found anything yet. I know guys mention better books from time to time but never took the time to write one down

 

Never had a problem with with haynes... Watch out for the VSS lines that hook to the powersteering that they dont get pinch when putting the transmission in... Check the clutch disk on the transmission input shaft splines to make sure it fits correctly and dosent bind.. Carefull of the soft clutch line before the junction box (where it switches from soft to hard line before the slave) as it likes to get stuck on the shifter arms on the trans... use blue thread lock on the flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts... Umm replace the rear main seal since you will be right there anyways and its cheap from honda (only use OEM)... I just did this last month so if you have any questions please le me know... be atleast ready to replace ball joints as they do rip sometimes when disconnecting them..

 

not Haynes lol, I meant Chilton, and when i stopped at Auto-zone to pick up my new clutch I was talking to someone who just did his recently (same model) and just told me that you don't really have to do everything the book says, but luckily as I said my dad's helping me and he's really confident in it. I'm excited to replace it I was looking at the little guide at came with and with any luck this may also fix this... vibration when it idles that I've had since I bought the car. any idea what the maybe, It's quite the bad the whole car shakes..

 

could be a possible light miss fire.. Theres a web site you can get the haynes for free from... When I did mine I put a lighter weight flywheel and it has been alot more fun to drive. putting the trans can ve a pain in the butt but dont force it to much.. Get an Exedy clutch, I wouldnt trust a parts store clutch but maybe thats me.

 

your not the only one I took it to get looked at by someone, and there like yes we don't really trust thoughs one's we've herd it enough time where Honda's reject them... whatever that may mean. but I have to get it done at a shop the person who was going to help me has never worked on a front wheel drive car so when he took a look at it he's like i can't work on this.

 

FWD is not really that much more difficult.

I haven't done a Honda, but I've done my VW Jetta. I had to borrow a transverse motor support, (it is a large support bar that goes across the engine compartment, and you "hang" the engine from it, while you unbolt the motor mount, because the engine has to move a bit to give you clearance, and then when you separate the transmission, you support THAT with a floor jack). The messy-part is unbolting the CV-joint, which on the VW (and Audi and BMW), required a 12-point driver bit. But if you just take your time, it's not too hard. This was the first "big" task I took on when I was learning modern (non aircooled) engines, and it wasn't difficult, and not too terribly different from a rear-drive clutch, once you get inside there.

I think the hardest part was cracking the high-torque gland-nut on the flywheel; and that was mostly because the VW had a dual-mass flywheel, and mine was broken - that's what took-out my clutch.

A lot of FWD jobs are a bit more intimidating, because the transverse engine doesn't give you as much clearance to work, but from underneath, it's not as bad. The differing factor there, is the CV joints (drive axles).