Hey Guys!

I'm in the market to buy a new project car and I'm looking at 3 different cars. 2 of them are LS models. 1 of them is a 95 LS with 85k miles 100% stock, 1 owner. The other is a 97 LS with 115k miles on it. The last one is a 97 RS with a GS-R swap bar'd with 70k miles on the engine.

I'm having issues picking a good year to build off of. The 97 RS w/ GS-R seems like it's already ready to go and wouldnt be too much of a project car which I'm ok with, but I just really need someone elses insight that has knowledge of Integras. I've owned a 2 other Integras in the past (90 LS and 96 LS) and loved them both.

I'm sorry if this post is being done wrong, but I could really use some decision helpers here If I should be looking out for different years/models that would be better as a base, let me know!

ANY help is appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

 

mad prop's for the three find's lol all very low on kms!

 

run carfax and do a compression and leakdown. also look to see if it seems like they have that mileage. this is one of the easiest cars ever to cluster swap

 

Thanks for the responses so far. I did a quick carfax on the 97 LS (just typed in the license plate to get to the payment screen) and it comes up showing as 97 "anniversary edition" then I did more research on that finding out its supposedly the Canadian version of the SE here in the states? So far the 95 LS has caught my eye the most because it's 100% stock and has only had one owner. From the look of the pictures it seems it wasn't bought by the current owner to even attempt at modifying so it seems it would be a good fit since I'm kind of picky and I don't like buying cars that have already been modded in the chance they were modded by someone that didn't know what the hell they were doing

The only thing is they want like $5500 for the LS with 85k on it and that car is only kbb's at like 4k in excellent condition?

Again appreciate the help! You guys are awesome!

 

that's a lil steep for an LS

i mean, i have a 97gsr, koni/gc, greddy exhaust, jdm itr full swap {as in $4000 engine tranny} on Atech eraser wheels with yoke ado8 tires. all bushings changed, all oem or hks parts on the car.

i'm probably going to sell it for 7000

that's a LOT more car for 1500

you're kind of stuck though since properly modded and doc'd cars are extremely rare and most "modded" cars are piles of **** so you start looking for stock adult owned cars. they have been going over book lately but i'm not sure i'd consider 5500 for an LS even with low miles. way, way too much work and money to make the car quick or do anything to. it's a basic driver

 

@racebum, what do you think is a fair offer for me to counter them with? I'm not trying to get the car for dirt cheap as I will respect them if the car is in great shape. Putting money into the car isn't an issue as I'm more or less doing it as a hobby more than anything. I'm just using this as something to take up my spare time and learn a new trade. I do need a car as a daily driver as well though because as of right now I own 2 street bikes (which is my current hobby) I'm looking for something I can drive daily and upgrade as I go just for something to do

 

what's it worth to you?

car is worth 4, that's a given if it's as you say. could go as high as 5. where in there you counter is up to you. find out of the timing belt has been done, they have to be done at 10yrs regardless of mileage. i would also do a leakdown test if you can.

if the belt hasn't been done you have a big bargaining chip to get the car mid to low 4s

easy as **** to do on that car but most people would spend 800 or so

 

Thank you for all the info @racebum. I will use this information for my purchase. Really appreciate it!

 

Id say what do you want to do with the car? ie build the motor, or just a few exterior mods, or keep it stock and drive it? If you want to get into the motor id say pick the GSR swap as long as its been done correctly.

 

One owner, bone stock is the way to go, although he is asking too much, it would have to be in mint shape with less miles before I would pay that much.

As mentioned, have a mechanic go over it and list anything that needs doing and use that as a bargaining tool.

I would also check for rust, even if you do not see any, pull the rear wheel arch protectors and inspect the lip the protector "clips" to, if rust is starting, that is where it will start. 94