Today i cleaned both valves and now it wont idle good. Its worse when i unplug the IACV it does nothing even when i plug it back in. Pleasr help

 

If you unplug the IACV and it does nothing then the valve is not working. When you pull the plug, the idle suppose to drop like a hot potato. Then it should recovers when you plug it back in. How did you clean the valves? If you lost coolant when removing the valves, you might have air in the coolant system to cause bad idle. Bleed the system.

 

How i do that? I cleaned it with cleaner. It dropped the first time i unplugged it now its not working at all. It works for a second then idle drops down real low again

 

Also my system has straight anti freeze could that be affecting it?

 

Straight antifreeze will not effect the idle but not good for your coolant system. You need half water to keep the system cool. Dude, what are you doing to your car?
ok. First pull the negative to the battery or the 7.5 fuse for radio back up. Leave it for 10 minutes and plug back in. Now start your car and let it warm up to operating temperature. Check your idle. Does it stay high above 1000? Does it go up and down? If the idle goes up and down then you either have air in your system or one of the valves not working. When you pull the plug on the IAVC the idle should drop. If that does not then your idle is too high to be notice the drop. Did you mess with the idle control screw? If you did before the cleaning then this is why your idle is mess up after the cleaning.

 

The girl i bought the car from had no clue what she was doing and put that in and she did say she messed with the screw to change it. Its almost the whole way out. But it idles around 1000 for a couple seconds then dropps to 400 and even lower when i put it in gear. When i pull the plug to change it nothing happens it stays at 400. I know she screwed it up but i just want to fix it. Please help. Its affecting how it runs too

 

ok. Go to the junk yard and get another valve. That thing almost never go bad. If the screw is back out all the way then you have too much air at idle which explains the high idle. If the valve was unplugged and nothing happens then it never worked to begin with. Once the car warmed up, and your idle swings around then it's your IAVC as the FITV only controls when the car is warming up. You have a 94 Accord right?

 

95. And im thinking its not working either. Im gonna drain half the radiator fluid tonight and fill it up with water. The thermo opens but i know its real slow cause the hose going back to the radiator takes a long time to get hot. Would the IACV be cause my power loss also after it warms up?

 

Least likely the IAVC cause your power loss. If any thing it waste more gas as there's more air in the intake. To really measure your power loss, I would do a compression test.
You know what, you got nothing left to lose on the the IAVC any way. Take it off again and clean it. Maybe you lodge a big piece of gunk in there and plug it up. Clean out the throttle body and clean out the opening to the IAVC as well.

 

Okay im just gonna go to a junk yard and get one cause if your sayin that it lets more air in the intake if its malfunctioning then im pretty sure thats my problem cause when it acts up i can hear it sucking alot more air it sounds like. I opened a thread earlier about power loss and hearing a vaccume sound but now u say it lets more air in. Im almost positive thats what im hearing. I really hope this fixes it im out of options. I noticed wheb its running good the idleing was nice and normal but when it ran like **** and lost alot of power the idleing would drop really low everytime i stopped. It was tempermental some days it ran good others like ****. Maby from weather idk but im hopeing this helps

 

When I said it let more air in b/c that idle screw is back all the way out. If you turn the screw clockwise it lower the rpm, but if you loosen it up, turning counter clockwise, the idle increases. It's set at the factory and it should not be mess with. This has nothing to do with the IACV. The valve is independent of the idle screw. It would be b/c the idle is too high and you don't notice the drop in idle when the valve is unplugged.

 

So try recleaning the valve again and starting over maby? Where should set the screw since she had it the whole way out

 

The answer is that it should never have been touched. But on my car, it's almost all the way in. Before you can set the screw, you need your IACV to work properly first. Once it works then you can set the base timing.
Rather typing every thing in details, I'll give you this link as this is what I used.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ht=base+timing

 

Thanks man ive never changed my distributor should i check the ignition time thou? i got a junk yard IAC valve and it seems to be idleing better im scared to try to adjust it to where it should be. Im even more scared to adjust the ignition timing cause i finally got it running but it does seem like its hesitating in power band when i drive

 

I hope you are not confusing b/w the base timing and the ignition timing. The link I gave you was only the base timing which is to help with your idle. Once you get the base timing down, then we can go to the ignition timing. For the ignition timing, you do need to move the distributor but if only if it's not in sync. You need a timing gun for this. Every time I do this, my eyes get tire b/c the red mark and timing mark must link up and the red mark on my crank pulley is very light so hard to see. What worse is the freaking timing light makes me get dizzy.
So let's get your base timing down first. Follow the instructions on the link I gave you.

 

Okay sorry for the confusion. But i need a timing gun for this? How much do they usually cost?

 

If you have a Harbor Freight near by. Or just sorta just rent it from an Auto store. There are two type, adjustable and none adjustable. I have the adjustable. Either one will work fine. One thing at a time. Let's get the base timing going right.

 

Okay to do the base time i just follow the first couple steps when i jump the ecm while running right

 

To set the base timing, you don't need to short the ECU. Only when the ignition timing is done. The base timing is more involve with the IACV and the idle screw. What I would do since the position on your idle screw is jacked, screw it all the way in, then back it out about half a turn. You'll find the screw right on the throttle body and under those 4 vacuum lines. You'll have to lift the vacuum lines slightly to see it. Becareful, the lines are old and you don't want it torn. You'll need a real flat head to screw it. Wait, now to think of it, your car is a 95, so the screw might be locate at a different location.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...hlight=chilton
Look up your car and year, it will help.

Where do you live, if you live nearby I could lend you my timing gun. I live in Fullerton, CA 92833.

 

I live in pa. But ive been trying to adjust the idle today but it wont go up past 500 and when i plug the iacv back in it goes to about 900 but then letting it idle for a couple minutes it slowly drops back to 500 like the IACV isnt working again. Could it be vaccume leak? If so where should i look? cause i took it for a drive and when i stop it idles good but it slowly starts leaking off the longer im stopped till it drops to where the screw controls it. Also i appriate all the help man i would be lost without you haha.

 

Are you doing this when the car is already warmed up?

 

The components inside the black box might be defective.

 

Yeah drove for like half an hour then did it? what black box r u talking about. Where the connector plugs into the IACV? Cause i pulled 2 IAC valves and they both do the same thing. When the idle drops after sitting for a while i pull the IACV plug the idle doesnt change thats how i know its only being controlled by the screw. If i shut my car off then try it again the valve starts working for alittle but eventually stops and leaks off it seems.That is probably messing up my base time which is causing me to lose power i think would a vaccume leak mess up the IACV? Im lost idk why it wont work

 

The air control box. On my car it's on the passenger's side close by the fuse box. Not sure where it is on your car. There's a MAP sensor in it. Let me look at the manual on your car a bit later. Another way to test is to have the car warmed up then turn on the AC, the idle should response also, if it doesn't then the control box is defective. Check for vacuum leak too first.

 

Get a voltmeter and see if you can test that electrical connector plugging in your IACV. That that connector is dead, your valve won't work either. Check that first before doing any thing else. Make sure there's voltage going in there.