so i started my b18c1 DA and in about 15secs it just turned off and died... never had this happen before. so i went to restart it and it just cranks.. the check engine light stays on and the oil light.. unplugged the ecu and retried but didnt fix it.. it has oil. when i go to check codes, it wont let me light just stays solid.

What could this be?? blown headgasket? no oil? any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check the ECU ground at the thermostat housing. If that's good, then either the ECU is bad, or you have some serious wiring issues.

This vehicle is a swap-job, isn't it?

 

the car has been running fine for 3 years.. never had a problem. professionally wired also with a rywire obd0-obd1 conversion harness.. the wire harness from a 90-93 integra was professionally combined with the gsr harness. so i dont think its due to bad wiring, maybe bad ecu but the wiring has been perfect since day one.. never had startup issues or cels. i will check that tho.

 

ok well i checked the ground, it still looks good.. i then pulled the spark plug wires one at a time and laid them one by one on tip of spark plug to try and see spark.. kinda hard to see but i dont think i seen any spark in all four cylinders.. maybe a bad dizzy or ignition coil??

 

Solid CEL almost always equals a fried ecu. Try swapping in another ecu and see if the problem goes away.

 

damn what the hell?? what would fry the ecu?? i dont have any extra ecus and no friends with swaps.. gawsh darnit this effin sux.

 

Is the PGM-FI Main Relay working?

Turn the ign. switch on to run, [not start] do you hear the fuel pump priming for a few sec.?

If not, either the relay is bad or a fuse is blown.

Confirm the PGM-FI Main Relay is not turning on by holding on to it and turning on the ign. switch to run there should be two (2) "clicks" from the relay, they are very close together so it may sound/feel like one (1) "click".

At the same time the CEL should turn on and the fuel pump should start priming, [for no more then a few sec.] then there should be a third click from the relay, the fuel pump will stop priming and the CEL should go out.

If that does not seem to be happening, turn the ign. switch on and test for power at the fuel injectors, [lead that is the same color on all four (4) injectors] and for power on IPG1 and IPG2 at the ECU/ECM.

Both IGP1 and IGP2 must have power on them when ign. switch is on and in the start position, if not the fuel pump will not work and there will be no spark. 94

 

thank you that sounds like a great diagnostic.. definitely going to do that full diagnostic tomorrow.. i went and turned key to on position to try and hear fuel pump.. didnt hear anything.

also whats IPG??

 

i also checked the relay and it didnt look blown nor did any of the fuses..

 

Sorry, IPG was a typo, it is IGP1 and IGP2, [ign. input signal from fuel injector relay to the ECU/ECM].

"Looking" is not a good diagnostic tool when it comes to the cars electrical systems, fuses can "look" good and still not be, PGM-FI Main Relays may not "look" blown but still can be, thermostat grounds can "look" OK and my not be, with grounds you just redo them, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] it eliminates them as the problem, and on older cars grounds are the most common "electrical" problem so it never hurts to redo them.

Do you have a 12V test light, [not LED type, just ordinary bulb type]?

If not, go and buy one, under $5 just about anyplace, a multimeter is also a must have tool for diagnosing electrical issues, [even a $20 one will do a lot], but that $2.99 12V test light can be a very handy tool, for one thing it is the best tool for testing fuses.

If the fuel pump will not run the CEL will not go out and obviously the car will not run, if the fuel injector relay, [one of the two relays in the PGM-FI Main Relay] is not turning on the fuel pump relay, [the second relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay] can not turn on, or will there be power at IGP1&2, IGP1&2 must have power for fuel pump relay to work, for the injectors to work , for the engine to run.

Confirm operation of the PGM-FI Main Relay, grab hold of the PGM-FI Main Relay and turn on the ign., does relay "click" at all? 94

 

thanks bro your absolutely right.. going to redo ground today and replace relay and fuses just to be sure..

 

A solid check engine light while checking codes on OBD1/2 means no codes not a bad ECU. Solid light on OBD0 ECU's (light on the ECU) usually means bad ECU.

 

since its obd1 are you saying its not a bad ecu, since it stays on. instead its a mechanical problem?? im thinking its the igniter coil or fuel pump.

 

You said, "went and turned key to on position to try and hear fuel pump.. didnt hear anything" you need to find out why the pump is not working, if you do as I suggest, [grab the PGM-FI Main Relay and hold it while turning on the ign.] you would have a better idea of what may be wrong, guessing is not going to work. 94

 

your absolutely right, i know guessings not going to work, just trying to get ideas and wait for weather to get better so i can work on car.. been raining.. im going to do that diagnostic test in above post tomorrow...

 

okay well i checked the relay, by holding it while the motor was turned over... didnt hear a single click.

 

check the timing had the same problem with my b18 just timing went off and was to far out to crank

 

ok thanks i will do that.. mine cranks pretty good just doesnt start.

 

If there is no "click" at the PGM-FI Main Relay, [didnt hear a single click] then the problem is at the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Also you do not have to try and start the engine when checking for the "click", just turn the ign. switch on to the run position.

If you are not getting that first "click", either the PGM-FI Main Relay is bad or there is a problem with the relays ground or power. 94

 

ok thanks im going to replace the relay tomorrow afternoon and see what happens.. thanks alot fcm, quite helpful and patient.. im not a complete noob just not a thriving expert.

 

im not saying something couldn't be wrong with the wiring, but the car hardly ever moves from garage, well kept and taken care of, never had a problem for 3 years since swap was done so im praying its just a stupid relay..

 

what would cause the pgm fi relay to go bad?? just over time or electrical??? i pulled the relay because i never heard a click but want to make sure before i order a new one since their not cheap...

 

It can be any number of things, ECU/ECM is not one of them, the first "click" from the PGM-FI Main Relay is the fuel injector relay, that relays coil is groundex to chassis, so the first thing to check is the black ground lead at the PGM-FI Main Relay plug, [unplug the relay and test for continuity to chassis ground].

If the ground is good, test for switched power, [should be a black/yellow lead] it should be hot with ign. switch in run and start positions.

For the injector relay not to work it can only be no ground, no power or the relay is bad, so if you have the ground, [black lead] and you have the switched power, [black/yellow] the relay should work, if not the problem is the relay, it may be repairable...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3046388

If you do not have a ground or a power, you will have to check the wiring, if it is a bad ground you can confirm by using a jumper wire to supply a ground to the black lead terminal, if there is no power you can confirm by using a jumper wire to supply power, you can get power from one of the free pins on the under dash fuse box.

While you are testing for power test for all three (3) powers..

The 12V switched, [black/yellow] hot in run and start.
The 12V constant, [yellow/white] hot at all times.
The 2nd 12V switched, [blue/white] hot when cranking to start only.

The 12V constant and the 2nd 12V switched has nothing to do with the injector relay turning on or not. 94

 

ok well i replaced dizzy and relay and still no start just cranks.. not really sure what it could be exactly...
i tried hearing clicks in the relay and priming from the fuel pump but i dont think i heard either.. even with a brand new relay..
this is really frustrating and im limited in electrical knowledge.. could i get some help thats easier to understand?? i appreciate the help i got already but im still feeling lost..

 

also i tried to replace the fuel filter and the two top bolts for the lines are on there super tight and i cant seem to loosen them.. am i doing something wrong or is this common in older cars?? i dont have air tools so i cant bust them off.. havent replaced that filter since ive owned the car..

should the relay connector and fuel pump connector have power with ign switch to on??
im trying to diagnose the problem instead of keep replacing parts... i have a multimeter and a test light.. can i use just the test light to check for power??