Let me start by saying I have searched the web (dirty19). I have emailed hardrace (no reply). I am installing the UCA and rear camber adjustment piece and can't find torque info or instructions. I know how to just bolt the thing in. But want to follow the correct steps, not sure what gets torqued with suspension loaded and to what amount. Anybody have a link or PDF? I bought the parts new but they came with no instructions. Help.

 

That is indeed a tragedy.
They dont list anything like that on their website. They should....
The rear camber should be a no brainer you are replacing a stock piece for an adjustable one.
Use the stock torque specs for that part.
As far as adjusting it id measure out the old non adjustable part on the car and match the measurements to it as close as you can. Id do it loaded vs unloaded. There really isnt much choice.
You are going to have to get the car aligned anyway so as long as you arent seeing the wheel leaning at some ridiculous angle your good.
Same with your UCA's use stock torque specs.
Your alignment specialist should know what to tighten everything to when they are done.
Reference your honda/acura manual for torque specs.
You cant go wrong with them.

 

you torque something other than your wheels and cylinder head? no wonder my car is a piece....

 

Sorry man, Im not sure for Hard race. I dont recall any special instructions on any of the other brands i have ever installed.

:crying laughing:

 

Always when in doubt - Use the Torque settings as per the factory manual.
HARDRACE are no exception.

Kiwi

 

Need to get the FSM for a 1995 civic. Regarding the "pivot" on the UCA's. Does this seem to be correct way to approach it:

That's what they tell you to do in the book, and once you understand how they work (which I see you do now from the above exchange with MightyMouse), it makes sense. The bushings rotate by flexing, so you want them to be as un-flexed as possible at static height. So in theory, you're supposed to put everything together loose and then torque to final spec with the car on the ground. However...

I could find no way in hell to get a torque wrench on those particular bolts with them installed, much less on the ground. So what I did was put everything together loose, then jack up the knuckle till the car started to come off the jackstand. Then mark where the bushing holder lined up with the UCA. Then pull the UCA out, line up the marks, torque it off the car, and then re-install it (which was not easy).

If anybody has an easier way, I'd love to hear it.
__________________
2001 NBP R #0851 - stolen and stripped 5/2/2003 https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsad.gif

 

Im not sure where you are coming from.
Can you shoot a pic of what you are trying to torque?

 

...whats-a torque wrench?

 

it's when you feel the click in your elbow

 

I will when I return. She's sitting in the driveway on jack stands. God I need a garage.

It's the bolts that pass through the bushings at the pivot pt. the bushings where the UCA actually connects to the car by the shock mounts. So not the bolts that pass through the cars sheet metal, the bolts that pass through the bushings.

 

Ah yes, the upper control arm anchor bolt to arm with rubber like this pic I attached.. The "twisting" theory only matters if the bushing rubber attaches to the sleeve in the center. IF you can slide than inner sleeve in and out of the bushing like this one or an energy suspension kit, it will not matter what angle you torque it because the pin will turn in the bushing according to the ride height.
I usually just tighten them with a extra long open end wrench as much as possible instead of removing it. I do have it on jack stands with the wheel off, jack the arm up as you did and tighten it. I found on some cars I can get to the inner sides of them with a swivel and socket on my tq wrench and an open end for the outsides between the body.
This is one reason I like the spherical bearing ones I have now because they are free of "twist".

 

Ahhhh I see the big picture now.
Justin is correct in how to do this.
There are torque adapters that are either open or closed wrench ends that affix to your torque wrench.
But anytime you go off angle you have to figure in to add more to the actual torque to get the proper amount.
I have a book that I used in the military that told you the general rules of thumb/ formulas on all harware types and torque angles.
Cool stuff.

 

Yep, thats it. I will check it out when I return but I don't think the inner sleeve is free. My understanding (if correct), is this bushing should not pivot within the "arm" but rather flex. Therefore, I want to get it torqued correctly.

I wanted spherical but I am still driving it to the track at this time. Selling Wifey on a trailer and tow vehicle is taking more time than I thought.

 

[QUOTE Selling Wifey on a trailer and tow vehicle is taking more time than I thought.[/QUOTE]

This can be difficult... getting the approval of the "war department" to spend funds.
You might want to try "how am I going to get it home if it breaks"?
Never use the crash scenario... She might pull the plug on the whole thing!

 

lol, yet another reason to remain single...

 

This can be difficult... getting the approval of the "war department" to spend funds.
You might want to try "how am I going to get it home if it breaks"?
Never use the crash scenario... She might pull the plug on the whole thing! [/QUOTE]

Agreed! Late nights drinking red wine watching speedchanel I have come to the same conclusion regarding " getting it home if it breaks".

I once went off track in the s2000 at just over 100mph and all I was thinking is "this is it, she's gonna shut me down and tell me to take up a musical instrument"

 

I saw this somewhere on here and laughed so hard.

 

I would kill for that space. I chose between hot and sunny driveway or shade side yard with angry fire ants

 

How about the 4 bolts that allow the camber adjustment? There is no OEM for that. Can't find that spec for hard race. I torqued the mounting bolts that join it to the chassis to 47ft/lbs. I am concerned with over tightening the 4 camber bolts on the UCA. Do you know that #?

 

fire ants are fun, just use lighter fluid and a match, done and done.

 

If you have them set top the proper camber and snugged up, then lower the arm and Tq to 34-36 and be done

 

Thx. 36 it is. One word of caution, one of the castle nuts would not back off, the ball joint would just rotate cI tried loading up the knuckle and it would still just rotate. Maybe you have other solutions but after tearing open the boot and not being able to vise grip it, I hack sawed the castle nut.