I have a 90 teg b18a1 I'm using a 99 b16 head. Going to 310cc injectors. So do I buy them for the 99 si head or the 90 teg

 

neither, they were never made for that car....either car. if you're buying 310s they will probably be a high impedance obd1 310cc. how aggressive is the engine you're creating? you can run stock 240s up to 185whp without any trouble.

if you do get 310s all you need are obd1 connectors and a tuneable ecu

if you're doing something aggressive like high 11s compression, pro1 cams, ported head and a 9500rpm redline then the 310s are great.

something like

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PTE-PRECISIO...ht_1145wt_1396

would fit just fine

 

Yes I'm doing the obd1 conversion, Crower stage 2 cams supertech flat valves, cp pistons which I don't know to much about these but seem to have good reviews from what I have read but they are 11.5 comp. and 84.5 bore, Crower rods with arp rod bolts. Let me know what ya think about the cp pistons if your familiar with them and I can't seem to find what silicon content they are. And thanks for the link maybe I can return the favor nor day. Lol

 

i'm sure you're aware, but just remember to delete the resistor box for saturated injectors.

 

the block is sleeved right? you can't use 84.5mm pistons in a stock b18a block. biggest you realistically want to go in a stock block is 81.5

 

Thanks I will delete the resistor box but do i just unplug it or is some bypass wiring need to be done? And yes I will sleave the block but if 84.5 is too big then I really don't want to do it ya know but just thought a bigger displacement would help. I haven't started building yet just getting parts and cost and research done 1st. I'm the kinda of person that likes doing everything right the 1st time. I mean I like tearing into a engine just as much as the next person but don't like to when it could have been prevented ya know. Thanks

 

you can run 84 in a sleeved block, just not a stock one. more displacement is always better

you have a lot of choices for injectors, the precision stuff isn't bad, they have a habit of using oem injectors. usually delphi or siemens which are both oem to GM

 

for the resistor box, you can either cut the connector and splice the wires together according to color, or buy a delete plug. they're like 15-20$ online

 

Awesome guys thanks alot. Very helpful but I running into one more thing that is being hard to find info on. I like the specs on the skunk 2 intake but it says will not work on 90-93 tegs due to the egr being on the intake but if I do the obd0 to obd1 conversion and using a b16 head will the intake work and where does the egr move to or is it eliminated?

 

You mean intake mani? No you won't be able to use one for an 90 93 teg with a b16 head

 

egr was only implemented on automatic tegs.
you'll be alright

 

why not?
although, i would just find an itr intake mani
blox is also a cheaper alternative

 

Cuz an intake mani from a 90-93 Integra would be for an ls unless he's talking about the one for a b17 won't fit on a b16 head

 

pretty sure he's talking about mating the appropriate manifold for the head he's running.
from what i recall though, a skunk2 is just a replica to the itr manifold. so if i could find an itr manifold for cheaper (they usually go for about 100$), i would just go that route

 

I believe that's what he's asking to. I'm saying if he orders one for a 90-93 Integra more then likely it will be for an ls and if it is it won't fit the b16 head

 

Yes I will get one for the b16 head duh. Lol. My head will be from a 99 civic si so thats what I will order for head I will have and I didn't know that the egr was only for a automatic. I swap the manual trans about a month ago. But correct me if I'm wrong but when I buy the obd1 ecu I need to make sure it's for a manual correct? Thanks again everyone. I worked for a Honda dealership as a tech for 8 years but never had the funds to do a build or even a swap before. Kids, wife, rent, blah blah blah. So this is new but fimiliar to me at the same time. Lol

 

Yes you need a manual ecu

 

Oh and was considering the skunk 2 because it's power range was 3000 to 8000 rpms and the rest was like 4500 to 8000 such as the elderbrock and blox. I making my redline at 8000 rpms because it will be a dd so the extra 1500 rpms at the lower range sounded pretty good.

 

it's possible to convert an auto ecu to manual. quite easy actually. but of course you wanna get the correct one if possible.
so was this an auto before then?
regardless, you won't need to worry about the egr if it was since you'll be changing all of it anyways.
but look into just picking up an itr intake instead. it'll be a lot cheaper and should be the same thing IIRC. plus it's oem, which i like

 

Ok which year make and model does the itr intake mani come off of and I live in Tennessee so I don't have the availability as like big city with lots of demand

 

And yes it was a auto I just tricked the ecu into thinking it was in park and the shift interlock. But I want a manual ecu so I can get my cruise working again at least I think that's the problem because it thinks it's in park all the time. Lol

 

the edelbrock performer x is the best manifold available for a 1.8L under 9000rpms. since you're increasing displacement that changes things a bit. i would ask around in the all motor forum and see who's tested what on larger displacement engines before you buy.

the blox is an almost carbon copy of a p73 intake manifold. jdm importers may have a spare p73 intake manifold and or they sell for 150 shipped when available.

itr parts are kind of crazy like that. very stable bid/ask on prices.

 

Thanks for all the help and info man and I will ask around never can have to much info. Lol. Like I said man thanks and maybe one day I can do the same.