Switched to Castrol Syntec 5W-30, Imediatally started burning oil
So Just this evening I changed my oil to castrol syntec for the sake of wasting even more money, changed from just normal quaker state, and IMMEDIATELY upon firing it up I've got tons of white smoke pouring out my exhaust, not the thick dense coolant white smoke, this was far more wispier, if you will, and smelled different. Shut it off after a few minutes, and checked the dipstick, to be greeted by a significant drop. my mini me d16y8 would burn a little oil if I ragged on it, but never like this, so all i can ask is, wtf?
it only just ticked over to 130 000 KM (kilometers), synthetic oil does not burn blue, or at least the internet says so.... Also I am aware I'm wasting money on it.... just like every other piece I buy for it...
Trending Topics
Got a link for that?
Yeah, we waste a lot of money on our cars, thats for sure. but, putting that oil in it is just pointless. They don't need it.
Yeah, we waste a lot of money on our cars, thats for sure. but, putting that oil in it is just pointless. They don't need it.
Like my 1974 Toyota Celica with 100 000 miles on it is fine with the stuff so I didn't see why a civic would take this so poorly.... but it did
it burns quicker, and on older engines, you may start to see leaks.
I am very picky about what oil goes into my car, however I just run the regular old oil. ~220k, and it bearly burns any oil. if I buy a 5qt jug, I'll still have half if not more left in on the next change.
If I was you I would have just went back to my previous oil,
maybe even try 10-30w if its not to cold of an area you live in.
I mean if you put the syn oil in it and it smokes like spyhunter,
get it out. Also the motors probably tired, maybe needs rings?
maybe even try 10-30w if its not to cold of an area you live in.
I mean if you put the syn oil in it and it smokes like spyhunter,
get it out. Also the motors probably tired, maybe needs rings?
Castrol is garbage, even their synthetic. I use that to break in performance motors because it doesn't work very well. I use Mobil 1 exclusively on anything other then break in. However in these high mileage Honda motors I usually use heavier weight synthetic then I would mineral oil just because the stuff is so slippery.
Castrol is garbage, even their synthetic. I use that to break in performance motors because it doesn't work very well. I use Mobil 1 exclusively on anything other then break in. However in these high mileage Honda motors I usually use heavier weight synthetic then I would mineral oil just because the stuff is so slippery.

I hope you have proof to support castrol is crap.
Synthetic is superior oil and worth the extra expense, which can also be offset by less frequent changes, which is a bonus in itself.
I noticed my valve lash no longer required adjustment after switching to synthetic, proof enough to me that wear had ceased.
I noticed my valve lash no longer required adjustment after switching to synthetic, proof enough to me that wear had ceased.
Castrol is garbage, even their synthetic. I use that to break in performance motors because it doesn't work very well. I use Mobil 1 exclusively on anything other then break in. However in these high mileage Honda motors I usually use heavier weight synthetic then I would mineral oil just because the stuff is so slippery.
i agree with synthetic being better oil. but dino is good if you change it out every 3k. i like 5k synthetic changes
I use what the car manufacturer recommends (5w-30). I'm pretty sure they design the car's oil clearances with that in mind. I believe they also allow slight variation depending on ambient temperatures, but generally the recommend viscosity covers the best range of temps and startup conditions.
I would'nt run synthetic oil in a car that wasn't designed for it but alot of people do. To each there own. I've used it and for reasons I won't get into I would'nt use it again.
If I had a fresh rebuilt motor I might debate using it but if I did it would be Amsoil or Royal Purple. Not Mobile 1.
If you want to run synthetic I would use 10W-30 instead of 5W-30.
I use regular Castrol GTX 5W-30 and change the oil every 5000 miles. 7000 miles at the maximum. At that point the filter can no longer clean the oil and the viscocity of the oil is shot.
The most important thing you can do is change the filter. The filter is what keeps your oil clean. To my knowledge there aren't specific synthetic oil filters.
If I had a fresh rebuilt motor I might debate using it but if I did it would be Amsoil or Royal Purple. Not Mobile 1.
If you want to run synthetic I would use 10W-30 instead of 5W-30.
I use regular Castrol GTX 5W-30 and change the oil every 5000 miles. 7000 miles at the maximum. At that point the filter can no longer clean the oil and the viscocity of the oil is shot.
The most important thing you can do is change the filter. The filter is what keeps your oil clean. To my knowledge there aren't specific synthetic oil filters.
I've run synthetic in my last rebuilt since it was born and its running great 30k later. I change it every 3300 because I torture it brutally every day.
I used to change my oil religiously at 3k, but found that in this modern age 5k is appropriate. I check my oil like every 1000 miles anyway and it uses about 1quart in 5k miles. Maybe a quart and a half.
However, OP, now your in a predicament. You are NEVER supposed to run a mixture of oil, so you either run conventional then switch to synthetic and stay there, or you just stay with conventional. You should NEVER run conventional, then synth, then back to conventional or anything where you are mixing them, unless you want to get experience in building motors.
I have no idea if that holds true if you only ran the motor for a few mins with the synthetic, then drain it and return to conventional...however I know once you put synthetic in and run it at least an oil change, if you go back to conventional you'll be tearing the motor down, or burning massive amounts of oil.
And just in my personal opinion ---synthetic motor oil is a waste in this motor. For whoever said that castrol was crap, Id strongly disagree. I have 10 civics in my immediate family and friends--all run castrol conventional, all high miles, all dont burn/use a single drop of oil. I run the oil to at least 6k miles, usually 7500 ish. (Unless I take a road trip and put a couple thousand miles on it in a day etc) Then I change it sooner, but that rarely ever happens. I also put hard miles on my cars. (Sitting in traffic in nyc in summer heat, etc) Have one civic over 400k driven by a family member, runs on castrol conventional *not even high miles* uses maybe half a quart in 5k miles.
I think Ive mentioned it before but I used to work at a dealership and a tech did a test on the oil he was draining out of cars. Even conventional oil doesnt break down at 5-7k miles under most conditions. (See Most conditions-- normal driving to work etc, not baja'ing in the desert or 15 passes on the strip) Go on google, the 3k mile oil change was pushed by your instant lubes, its no where based in fact. Thats why NEWER cars have the gauge, your oil has 20% life left etc.
By all means change your oil every 3k, your just wasting your money ... head over to bobistheoilguy.com or just google it.
Did that. Previous owner had wrong dipstick in. Filled to line which actually OVERfilled it. Smoke POURS out white. Got proper dipstick. Drained excess. Ran fine.


