Emmisions Testing failure to communicate
I had replaced a stereo a while back in my 96 accord lx and the connection that sits behind the ashtray that the emmissions testing guy needs to connect to gets nothing as a reading.
Have I possibly disconnected something back there, or is there a fuse to check maybe?
Here is what it looked like during install

and here is the stereo replacement thread if needed
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/stereo-replacement-96-accord-3001386/
Have I possibly disconnected something back there, or is there a fuse to check maybe?
Here is what it looked like during install

and here is the stereo replacement thread if needed
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/stereo-replacement-96-accord-3001386/
Did you cut any wires back there? Looking at the picture you provided I do not see the OBD II connector. It should be located in this area...

AFAIK the diagnostic connector and wires are directly connected to the ECU. Maybe check that the connector at the ECU did not get jarred loose or pop off.
Did the tech remember to turn your car to 'ON'? You have to hold their hand sometimes.
I had a tech try to fail my car for timing, he did not jumper the blue connector to correctly check base timing

AFAIK the diagnostic connector and wires are directly connected to the ECU. Maybe check that the connector at the ECU did not get jarred loose or pop off.
Did the tech remember to turn your car to 'ON'? You have to hold their hand sometimes.
I had a tech try to fail my car for timing, he did not jumper the blue connector to correctly check base timing
What I remember doing was cutting only the 3 wires that the kenwood modulator part thats dangled off to the right in my stereo thread (red, yellow and black) and capping all 3 cuts each with a twist on wirecap and the wrapped electrical tape on all 3.
Other than that I didnt make any cuts that I recall. I then installed the new wiring harness connector for the Pioneer system and spliced those wired into place according to the instructions that came with it.
Everything in the car is working, wipers, blinkers, radio, cruise, lights, clock, even the lighter.
After posting this thread I did take it to a 2nd emission testing station and the same thing happened. The error code says "This test was aborted due to code 86. Cannot communicate with the OBD system".
He did have the car running when testing. He tried twice and then asked me if I had installed the radio. I said yes and was new to stereo installation so i may have screwed up somewhere. He said that sometimes disconnecting the radio has helped. So I borrowed a Phillips head and broke it all down again and disconnected the radio and still even with me holding the connector snug as the test was run it came up with the same error.
I will check fuses tomorrow, and look for the ECU you mentioned. Where is the ECU? Is it the grey connector behind the ashtray?
Here are some more pics of what its looking like right now.




Other than that I didnt make any cuts that I recall. I then installed the new wiring harness connector for the Pioneer system and spliced those wired into place according to the instructions that came with it.
Everything in the car is working, wipers, blinkers, radio, cruise, lights, clock, even the lighter.
After posting this thread I did take it to a 2nd emission testing station and the same thing happened. The error code says "This test was aborted due to code 86. Cannot communicate with the OBD system".
He did have the car running when testing. He tried twice and then asked me if I had installed the radio. I said yes and was new to stereo installation so i may have screwed up somewhere. He said that sometimes disconnecting the radio has helped. So I borrowed a Phillips head and broke it all down again and disconnected the radio and still even with me holding the connector snug as the test was run it came up with the same error.
I will check fuses tomorrow, and look for the ECU you mentioned. Where is the ECU? Is it the grey connector behind the ashtray?
Here are some more pics of what its looking like right now.




It is the connector in the centre that looks like this;

It should have wires in the following positions;

Pin 6 - LtGRN/RED wire (SRS Unit)
Pin 8 - RED/WHT wire (Fuse 36 Under hood fuse relay box)
Pin 12 - BLK wire (Ground to dash G202)
Pin 13 - BRN/BLK wire (Ground to LR engine G114)
Pin 15 - Lt GRN wire (ECU pin C8 K-Line)

It should have wires in the following positions;

Pin 6 - LtGRN/RED wire (SRS Unit)
Pin 8 - RED/WHT wire (Fuse 36 Under hood fuse relay box)
Pin 12 - BLK wire (Ground to dash G202)
Pin 13 - BRN/BLK wire (Ground to LR engine G114)
Pin 15 - Lt GRN wire (ECU pin C8 K-Line)
Unless the code 86 was a code for the scanner itself. But if the ECM has a stored code often times a tech will not test the car if there is a pending code.
The other thing is some scanners/vehicles will not always correctly scan for codes if the engine is running. The key should be turned to ON but not have the engine running. Can you beg/borrow/rent a scanner yourself and check to see if there are any codes or if the problem the techs are having happens when you try it?
I checked the connector and the 5 wires are there and look connected

Would fuse 36 in the engine compartment be a clear blue/yellow colored fuse type? I checked all that looked like that. One was listed as ECU and I dont see any snapped connections in the central curve of the fuse.

This is the area where I had to cut the 3 wires Red/yellow/black that went to the Kenwood Modulator thing that I removed. I just cut and capped.

The other thing that stood out under the dash was a dangling connector that near the fuse box but not nearly long enough to connect. Is this supposed to be loose?

On the scanner, I had stopped by Auto Zone last night and the guy brought out an actron branded scanner and hooked it up with the car on but not running. He wasnt able to get a communication. Is there a particular kind I should check around for to test myself?
Also, I checked every fuse thats under the dash and they all had a complete circuit. The only thing that was odd was that the one nearest to the door top row with 7.5 on it (turn signals i think) was it was tilted in its slot..so I pushed it in square and seated it.

Would fuse 36 in the engine compartment be a clear blue/yellow colored fuse type? I checked all that looked like that. One was listed as ECU and I dont see any snapped connections in the central curve of the fuse.

This is the area where I had to cut the 3 wires Red/yellow/black that went to the Kenwood Modulator thing that I removed. I just cut and capped.

The other thing that stood out under the dash was a dangling connector that near the fuse box but not nearly long enough to connect. Is this supposed to be loose?

On the scanner, I had stopped by Auto Zone last night and the guy brought out an actron branded scanner and hooked it up with the car on but not running. He wasnt able to get a communication. Is there a particular kind I should check around for to test myself?
Also, I checked every fuse thats under the dash and they all had a complete circuit. The only thing that was odd was that the one nearest to the door top row with 7.5 on it (turn signals i think) was it was tilted in its slot..so I pushed it in square and seated it.
On most cars the DLC is powered by the radio or cig lighter. I bet fuse 36 in the radio/cig lighter fuse. I suspect your DLC connector is not getting power. Obviously your radio and cig lighter work so the fuse isn't the problem. check for voltage on the DLC connector pin that goes to fuse 36. If there is voltage check for continuity on the ground pins.
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Good news, after the removing and replacing the same fuses during my check test this am I took it to the emissions test station and plugged it in and it is now communicating. Problem now is there were 4 "not ready" readouts that suggest that I have cleared the system out and it needs drive time to catch the Catalyst, Evap System, Secondary Air system, and A/c System Refrigerant.
Question is now...how many miles to drive before these 4 are ready to be tested?
Question is now...how many miles to drive before these 4 are ready to be tested?
Good news, after the removing and replacing the same fuses during my check test this am I took it to the emissions test station and plugged it in and it is now communicating. Problem now is there were 4 "not ready" readouts that suggest that I have cleared the system out and it needs drive time to catch the Catalyst, Evap System, Secondary Air system, and A/c System Refrigerant.
Question is now...how many miles to drive before these 4 are ready to be tested?
Question is now...how many miles to drive before these 4 are ready to be tested?
Gotta love OBD 2.....
i also noticed that the ground wire that goes to the diagnostic port is not all the way in. you can even see the clip of the wire kinda out compared to the other wires
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