1991 Accord EX Fan issues
I just bought a 91 Accord and I am totally green when it comes to working on them. I heard the fan come on (while the car was off) this weekend. Today I drove it to work and it got hot under load when coming home. I put it in neutral and cruised down the back side of the hill. Temp continued to rise until I put it back in gear. While driving it temp is good. at Idol in park or after turning it off, it gets hot and NO FAN is coming on. The fuses all look good.I don't know how to test the relay in the fuse box so I don't know if that is good. I did jump both temp switches to test fans and the rear fired the fans with the car on and the front fired fan with car off. Does this sound like both temp switches are out? Any suggestions for a newbie?
*Also looks like my shift soleniod is bad...Flashing "s" with an error code of 7. Feels like I only have 2nd and 3rd gear. (not sure if this is related or just another problem)
Any help is appreciated. ~Robert
*Also looks like my shift soleniod is bad...Flashing "s" with an error code of 7. Feels like I only have 2nd and 3rd gear. (not sure if this is related or just another problem)
Any help is appreciated. ~Robert
Sounds like the one switch (rear, lower hose by t-stat) is bad.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/questions-regarding-radiator-fans-2989671/
About post #8
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/questions-regarding-radiator-fans-2989671/
About post #8
really it shouldn't get hot under load while moving, even if the fan doesn't work. check coolant level and make sure overflow tank isn't bubbling when its running. as for the fans its probably the relay or temp switch if the fans test good. also make sure your thermostat isn't stuck closed- if one rad hose is hotter than the other after driving it a while, it probably is stuck.
two of the solenoids are on the front of the trans on newer ones, i believe they are on those also. u can remove them and clean them out by powering them with 12V and causing them to open, then spray em out w/ carb cleaner and let dry. someone else may have more details on which wires to energize. just make sure u have new o-rings when u reinstall em. check fluid also and make sure it isn't burnt up- should be nice and cherry red. might be time to service it anyway.
just curious, how many miles on the car?
two of the solenoids are on the front of the trans on newer ones, i believe they are on those also. u can remove them and clean them out by powering them with 12V and causing them to open, then spray em out w/ carb cleaner and let dry. someone else may have more details on which wires to energize. just make sure u have new o-rings when u reinstall em. check fluid also and make sure it isn't burnt up- should be nice and cherry red. might be time to service it anyway.
just curious, how many miles on the car?
This car has a cooling fan timer that will keep fans on for a time after shut down coolen temp sw a has 2 wiers 1 blu 1 blk jump them together an fans should run with key on als check coolent is full
Answers and updates...Thanks for all the responses. The car has 190,000 and looks like it has been ridden hard. A few new parts, but definately a project and more than likely gonna be my 15 yr olds first car when he gets there. Perfect starter car and something for us both to learn on that gets decent gas milage.
I Did some work on it this weekend and was ready to buy new Shift Solenoids, but I tested them by jumping them and they sounded good. I then noticed that the little tab inside the Plug coming off the wiring harness to the solenoid was broken. I eliminated the plug and wired staight from the harness to the solenoid and NO MORE FLASHING "S"
She shifts like a dream.
The fan does come on when the car is off now. I switched out the (fan switch (thermal switch located in the thermostat housing) because this is the switch that when jumped seems to turn on the fans when the moter is running. Not sure if it did anything. The car runs fine when driving, but when at a stop and idoling, it will get hot. As soon as I start driving, the temp. goes down.
My line of thinking is to next see if the belt to the water pump is slipping??? Maybe that would explain cooling under load, but not at an Idol? Also, I don't feel like there is much pressure in the radiator hoses. I don't see a leak, but if air was aloud to come into the system (by maybe a bad radiator cap seal or somethig) would this affect the pressure and flow? When at Idol with the cap off, I see the radiator fluid moving.
Just trying to think of logical reasons for what I got. I bought a Hayes repair book it tells me how to clean battery terminals and take out door speakers.
Thank Again for all input and suggestion.
I Did some work on it this weekend and was ready to buy new Shift Solenoids, but I tested them by jumping them and they sounded good. I then noticed that the little tab inside the Plug coming off the wiring harness to the solenoid was broken. I eliminated the plug and wired staight from the harness to the solenoid and NO MORE FLASHING "S"
She shifts like a dream. The fan does come on when the car is off now. I switched out the (fan switch (thermal switch located in the thermostat housing) because this is the switch that when jumped seems to turn on the fans when the moter is running. Not sure if it did anything. The car runs fine when driving, but when at a stop and idoling, it will get hot. As soon as I start driving, the temp. goes down.
My line of thinking is to next see if the belt to the water pump is slipping??? Maybe that would explain cooling under load, but not at an Idol? Also, I don't feel like there is much pressure in the radiator hoses. I don't see a leak, but if air was aloud to come into the system (by maybe a bad radiator cap seal or somethig) would this affect the pressure and flow? When at Idol with the cap off, I see the radiator fluid moving.
Just trying to think of logical reasons for what I got. I bought a Hayes repair book it tells me how to clean battery terminals and take out door speakers.

Thank Again for all input and suggestion.
at 190k its time for a new water pump, timing belt, and tensioner. The motor is cooling down when you have it in gear or revved up but overheats at idle is a clear sign that the water pump is going bad. Honda recommends replacing timing belt and water pump every 60k miles and tensioner every 100k or so. do those and it will bring that temp back down. As far as the fan goes, check the relays. not hard to find, . if the relays check out ok, then replace the fan.
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