can any1 tell me what would work better on my setup ?..i have a b18b jdm block with a gsr head fully built with ferrea valves and hytech srpings and retainers so idk what pistons to use what would work better

 

compression is going to come up quick with that combo. the nippon "usdm itr" pistons are a 3.9cc dome. check with RS for their dome height. no clue on ycp.

if you use the $150 nippon itr pistons you should be around 11:5-1 with an ls crank and gsr head. do the calcs to find out

 

i have itr p73 but i need 81.5mm b,c i gotta cut the block thanks ..u know where i could get the rs pr3 ?

 

Why not OEM PR3 pistons?

 

they don't come in 81.5

pistons you want are either

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nippon-Racin...ht_3158wt_1163

or the RS

these nippon pistons have a pretty good rep. nippon is a denso company. these also measure a 3.9cc dome which is a little bigger than usdm itr

with an LS crank and GSR head pr3 pistons are going to be close to that 12:1 compression range. dangerous on pump gas unless the tune is perfect and you never detonate. low 11s is much safer

 

thats not a bad idea

 

you could run stock rods wiht arp bolts on this righ ..b.c i was thinking of getting eagle rods

 

if you're staying NA you don't need eagle rods and you'll also have another problem. eagle rods and brushed with bronze bushings on the small end. that means they are designed for a full floating piston. those normally are forged and start at $450/set

i would run those nippons on stock LS rods with arp bolts. the ls rod and arp bolt combo has been tested to 300whp on boosted cars. you aren't getting close to that NA> just make sure you spend the cash to have the bottom end balanced and it should live some time if you keep the revs under 8500rpm, yes you can go higher but engine life goes down. this would be a great match with oe ITR cams.

set your rod clearances to .0018 on all but number 3 which you run at .0020 and set your mains either the same or you could tighten up .0002 from the rod measurements. basically the loose end of factory spec. you'll also need to have your rods resized with those arp bolts which is usually $50 per set at the machine shop. this is also necessary even with eagles. they are not true out of the box and can be off as much as .0003

the hone is the really important thing with a B series. you absolutely DO NOT WANT to go rougher than 220 grit on the hone and 280grit is common. either a 45 or 60 deg crosshatch. in short make sure your machine shop has done honda - toyota engines. the hone you use to seat a cast iron V8 ring is too rough for the thin tool steel honda rings. if used you will burn oil from day 1

as for those nippon pistons my best guess on the piston to wall clearance is .0013 to .0015. that's within oe spec and loose enough you won't seize them

i've blown up 5 vtec motors in my life and can tell you that you always want to err on the side of caution with compression. running 11:2-1 might be down 5whp from 12:1 but believe you me, 3 years down the road it will still be running. you get a little water in the gas or an idiot who puts 87 octane in a 12:1 motor and you will crack ringlands

 

bumppppppppppppppp